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VIEW NEAR VICTORIA, FKOM A SKETril BY A. G. DALLAS, ESQ. 






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Issued bv the Agext-Genekal for the Peovixce, 
4 Xme Street Square, E.C., 

London, England. 



.B85 
I 'tis 



I sliall be glad to be advised of any errors or omissions, for 
rectification in subsequent yearly editions. 

Tlie Index is at the end of tlie Book. 

GILBERT MALCOLM SPROAT, 

Agent-General. 



4 Lime Street Square, E.G., 

London J England, 

Jamiary 1, 1875. 



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BEITISH COLUMBIA. 



INFOE]*IATIO]!J FOE EMIGEAXTS. 



The Agent-General for British Columbia tliiuks it necessary to 
furnish the following information for the assistance of 
persons desirous of emigrating to that province : — 

Xow tliat the Gorerument of Canada liave shipped materials for making; 
the Canadian Pacific Eailway in British Columbia, and have corae nnder a 
fi-esh obligation to proceed vigorously with its construction, the province 
attracts renewed attention, and settlers are coming into it to take up land for 
farms. There are many good places open for settlement, but the man of 
small means, particularly, cannot spend his time and money in visiting all 
X3arts of the province, in order to find the place that will best suit his wants 
and circumstances. This Handbook will give, among other information, some 
general idea of the different sections of the province that have been tested by 
]practical farmers. 

The occupation of gold-mining exists still as the principal industry of 
British Columbia and as an unfailing attraction to population — ^h, millions 
sterling having been exported within ten years — 'but other industries have 
-appeared, and promise well. The chief of these has been coal. Within ten 
years 330,395 tons of coal have been shipped from Xanaimo. Many articles 
of provincial produce, besides gold and coal, — ^namely, lumber (siiwn wood), 
furs, hides, wool, fish, cranberries, (Src. — figure now in the list of exports. A 
small settlement of practical experienced men is found in nearly every district 
that is suitable for farming. Such men know, in some degree, what their own 
land will produce or support, and they also have a general idea of the extent 
of similar land near to them. Availing myself of the wider sources of informa- 
tion thus opened, I hope to be able to give a picture of the province which is 
neither underdrawn nor overdrawn. Truth, not exaggeration, is the basis of 
these pages. The information that will be laid before the reader, on each 
point^, will be fully borne out by that best of tests — Experience. 

It has been somewhat unfortunate that the rich gold-fields of Cariboo are 
among rough mountains, with a severe climate, and that the trunk road to 
Cariboo runs for a long way through an unprepossessing part of the province. 
Several persons who have travelled on this road only, and have afterwards left 
the country, have in good faith tried to describe British Columbia. These 
writers I do not complain of, though their x^osition is like that of a foreigner 

B 2 



4 BRITISH COLUMBIA: 

who should attempt to describe England after travelling through Wales on a 
public coach. I complain of another class of writers — writers who are deficient 
in fairness and candour. In the earlier days of British Columbia, as of all 
young British colonies, certain persons came into the country who had a strong 
desire to make a living without taking oif their coats — a desire which, could 
not be gratified. The friends of these persons at home sent them money, 
which the}^ put into silly investments. They rode to the diggings, and rode 
back again. They hung, like mendicants, round the doors of the Government 
offices. They croaked in the streets, spent their time idly in bar-rooms, and 
finally disappeared. Having in some manner got back to England, several of 
these persons wrote scraps in magazines, or vamped up books about British 
Columbia. I might collect these wails of the unsuitable into a list, but it is 
enough simply to state that nobody of any position in British Columbia — no 
settler worth his salt — has ever written against the country. On the contrary, 
persons who are there, settled comfortably after overcoming early difficulties, 
write to their friends to join them. 

The intending emigrant may read the following books about the province 
as good books written by honest writers ; — 

1862. — ' Prize Essay on Vancouver Island.' By Charles Forbes, M.D., 

M.R.C.S. (Eng.)., late Staff Surgeon, Royal Kavy. 
1863.—' Prize Essay on British Columbia.' By the Rev. R. C. Lundin 

Brown, M.A., fonxierly Minister at Lillooet, 
1872. — ' Prize Essay on British Columbia ' (after its union with Canada). 

By A. C. Anderson, Esq., J.P., formerly a partner of the Hudson's 

Bay Company. 

* Vancouver Island Explorations, and Papers relating to the British 

Columbian Botanical Expedition ; ' * Studies of the Forests and 
Forest Life of Korth-west America.' By Robert Brown, M.A., Ph.D., 
F.L.S., F.R.G.S., President of the Royal Physical Society, Edinburgh. 
Vancouver Island and British Columbia.' By Matthew Macfie, Esq.^ 
F.R.G.S. 

* Facts and Figures relating to Vancouver Island and British Columbia.'' 

By J. D. Pemberton, Esq. 
' Vancouver Island.' By Dr. Rattray, R.N. 

* Four Years in British Columbia.' By Captain R. C. Mayne, R.K, C.B. 

* Report on British Columbia.' By the Hon. H. L. Langevin, C.B.^ 

Minister of Public Works of the Dominion of Canada. 

I wish to express myself very carefully, but I believe that the recommenda- 
tions of British Columbia by the ' Times ' twelve years ago, were, upon the- 
whole, well based, and that the country will justify what was said of it by 
that far-seeing journal. " British Columbia abounds with every natural and 
" material wealth. It enjoys law and order. There you will find elbow-room, 
" a fair field and no favour. Go to British Columbia and be a free man." 

Many circumstances, however (some of which will be learned from this 
Handbook), require that emigration to the province should at present be 
undertaken very prudently, and with clear notions of what settling in a young 
country really means. One of the duties of the office of Agent-General, which 
I hold, is to give information to intending emigrants, so that they may not 



INFOEMATION FOK EMIGRANTS. 5 

make any large mistakes. If unsuitable persons go to the province and do 
not succeed, they must blame their own folly. The province, unquestionably, 
is a very desirable place for suitable settlers, compared with any other territoiy 
on the North American continent. 



A few Facts. 

Every reader, perhaps, may not be aware that there is a strange contrast 
between the surface, soil, climate, &c., of the countries on the Atlantic side of 
the continent, and the countries on the Pacific Ocean side of the continent. 
British Columbia (English), Oregon, and California (American) are the three 
principal countries on the Pacific side. These are fine countries, but of course 
each has advantages anddisad vantages. I know all of them, and in my opinion 
British Columbia, upon the whole, has been most favoured by nature, and is 
the best of the three countries for securing a homestead in — for the following 
substantial reasons : — 

Taking the whole year round, or taking a series of years, the climate is 
better for farming, and more healthy and enjoyable. The wheat, barley, and 
hops of British Columbia beat those of California, and her root-crops beat 
those of Oregon. British Columbia has more coal and better coal, finer 
harbours, superior fish, sounder trees. It is reasonably believed, and partly 
proved, that her mineral lands, containing precious metals, are very extensive. 
The public domain (which is at the disposal of the people of the province) is 
sold more cheaply ; the taxation is immensely less ; the laws are better carried 
out ; the people have as much political freedom as men can desire. 

These are facts which ignorance only can lead any person to gainsay, and I 
state them, at the outset, so that they may be examined and appreciated. 

British Columbia not Remote. 

Men frequently call at my ofiice in London who, twenty days before, were 
in British Columbia. The Canadian Pacific Railway will bring the province 
within a fortnight'' s travel from England. 

The Great Snow Question. 

British Columbia has not a snowy luinter. There is snow, but not much 
snow. In cold countries they have a saying that snow is " the poor man's 
manure," because if there is too little of it his wheat may be " winterkilled." 
Gold minerSj also, in some places, find snow so useful in their work that they 
say, gratefully, "snow is gold." Still, the world in general is prejudiced 
against snow, and I therefore record here : — 

(1.) That the great mountain ranges in Oregon and California have 
deeper snow than is found upon the same ranges in British 
Columbia. 

(2.) That British Columbia has not a snoivy luinter such as Eastern 
Canada and the Northern States of the Union have. The British 
Columbian winter is the luinter of England and of France. (See 
" Climate," p. 14.) ■ 



BKITISH COLUMBIA: 

A Foreigner's First Impression on landing in British 
Columbia. 

An American traveller, Avriting in 1872 to the Boston (United States) 
' Globe,' said : — 

" Victoria is emphatically a beautifnl city, for, nnlike the majority of 
" Pacific Coast towns, it deserves the name. The harbour is the prettiest on the 
" Pacific Coast. Coming up the harbour, you see the main part of the city 
^' ahead of you extending into suburbs on both sides. The shores are rocky and 
" picturesque, and the houses and grounds around them have an air of neatness 
" rarely seen in so new a country. You are immediately struck on landing with 
*' the fact that everything is English — the people have the unmistakable 
" English look about them, and the flag and arms of England stare you in the 
" face at every turn." 

Victoria has nine hotels, making up 531 beds, besides several suburban 
hotels. The resident poxmlation is about 5000. Visitors are numerous at all 
seasons. 

What the United States Government thinks of British 
Columbian Coal. 

By a late order of the War Department at Washington, United States, it 
was decreed that one " cord " (8 feet by 4 feet by 4 feet) of merchantable oak- 
wood should be considered equal to : — 

1800 lbs. [N'anaimo (Vancouver Island) coal 

2200 „ Bellingham Bay 

2400 „ Seattle . . . 

2500 " „ Eocky Mountain ^ Coals produced in the United States. 

2600 „ Coos. ... 

2600 „ Mount Diablo 

What Farmers have Produced in British Columbia. 

Beef, from natural grass, equal to the best Aberdeen stall-fed ; mutton, as 
choice as prime South of England ; fine wheat, barley, oats, rye, Indian corn, 
hops, timothy hay, potatoes, carrots, turnips, cabbages, tomatoes, musk-melons, 
water-melons, grape-vine, tobacco, broom-corn, sweet almond, castor-oil plant, 
peach, and all fruits of the temperate climes, exuberantly. 

Minerals. 

Country abounds in minerals of a high character ; Actual mining industries 
— gold, coal, and silver (see p. 76) ; copper very promising ; indications of 
many of the base metals everywhere. 



Investments waiting for Men and Money. 

Farming — dairy — mixed — cattle 

— sheex> (see pp. 39, 48, 59, 

70, 83, 84). 
Gold mining (see p. 75). 
Coal „ (see p. 79). 



Saw-milling (see p. 81). 
Fishing (see p. 87). 
Flax (see p. 90). 
Tobacco (se^ p. 91). 



INFOEMATrON FOE EMIGEANTS. i 

The Country — its History and Natural Divisions. 

The coantiy is divided into two perfectly distinct parts — Yancoiiver Island 
and the Mainland. These were constituted colonies, the first in 1849, and 
the second in 1858; they were then united in 1866, under the name of 
British Columbia, and so continued until the 20th July, 1871, at which 
date the colony became one of the provinces of the flourishing Dominion of 
Canada. 

With greater correctness, perhaps, it may be said that the province is 
divided into three instead of into two distinct parts. 

The Rocky Mountains form the eastern boundary of the province. Speak- 
ing ill a general sort of way, it may be said that a long and massive uplift on 
the ^Mainland, called the Cascade Eange, runs parallel to the Eocky Range, 
and divides the country between it and the Pacific Ocean into two divisions, 
namely, the " East Cascade Region," and the " West Cascade Region" (see 
page 47 and Appendix). 

The islands of Vancouver, Queen Charlotte, &c., might be considered to make 
a third division, though, climatically, they belong to the West Cascade 
Region. 

Population (excluding Indians). 

About 20,000, which is increasing yearly. jSTationalities — British Isles 
(many Scotch and Welsh), Eastern Pro'vince of Canada, the United States, 
France, Italy, Austria, Grermany, Xorway, Sweden, Denmark. Coloured, 750 ; 
Chinamen, 1500. 

Indians. 

Probably about 30,000, quite quiet, over the whole mainland and island ; 
rather saucy on west coast of Vancouver Island and in Queen Charlotte Island ; 
useful as common labourers, and not without capabilities as artisans ; some 
take to farming and have cattle, others carry on mining with "rockers" on 
the Thompson and Eraser Rivers ; altogether, the Indians contribute very 
largely to the trade of the province. They use large quantities of flour. 

SETTLE IN BRITISH COLUMBIA, AND 
REGISTER YOUR HOMESTEAD. 

The soil of British Columbia is, as above said, at the disposal of the Par- 
liament of the Province, not of the General Government as in the United 
States. 

Public Lands. 

The Land Act of 1874 makes most liberal provision for the acquisition by 
settlers of land, either as Free Homesteads, or by purchase. Land can be secured 
against seizure. 

Free Homesteads. 

Heads of families, widows, or single men of 18 years and upwards may 
obtain free grants of 320 acres eastward of the Cascade range of mountains, 
or of 160 acres in other parts of the Province. The settler selects his own 
land, records it in the office of the District Commissioner, the fee for which is 



8 BRITISH COLUMBIA : 

two dollars, and at once enters upon occui^ation. After two years' occupanc}-, 
and certain conditions as to improvements having been complied with, a 
Crown grant or conveyance will be made, the only expense of which will be 
five dollars — so that a farm of 320 acres, or of 160 acres, may be obtained 
in a beautiful and healthful country for about thirty shillings ! 

Sale of Surveyed Lands. 

Lands, the surveys of which have been duly made and confirmed by 
notice in the Government Gazette, are open for purchase at the rate of 
one dollar an acre — to be paid in one full payment, or in two annual payments 
of 50 cents per acre : payment to be made in two ^ears from time of 
purchase. 

Unsurveyed Lands. 

Persons desirous of purchasing unsurveyed, unoccujDied, and unreserved 
Crown lands must first have the land surveyed by a surveyor approved by the 
Government. The regulations as to the sale, purchase, and price of the land 
are the same as in the case of surveyed land. Should there be two or more 
applicants for the same tract of land, and a prior right to either or any of the 
applicants is not established to the satisfaction of the Government, the land 
may be tendered for by the applicants and sold to the highest bidder. 

Tracts of land near the land actually occupied can be leased for grazing 
^purposes, on terms designed to be liberal to the pre-emp)tor. Such leased 
land is liable to be "pre-empted" by others; but, in that case, the lessee's 
rent is reduced proportionately. 

Land covered with wild hay can also be leased in the above way, but not 
more than 500 acres of it to any one person, and not for longer than five years. 

Mining and timber leases will be named under their proper heads fm- 
ther on. 

Military and naval officers in her Majesty's service are entitled to free 
grants on certain conditions. The Agent-General will give information. 

Homestead Act. 

Most important Act. If a settler have a wife and children, this Act must 
be dear to him ; the farm and buildings, when registered, cannot be taken 
for debt incurred after the registration ; it is free up to a value not greater 
than 2500 dollars (500Z. English) ; goods and chattels are also free up to 500 
dollars (100?. English) ; cattle " farmed on shares " are also protected by an 
Exemption Act. 

Farm lands in private hands may be bought at almost any price, from 5 
dollars (20s. English) to 40 dollars (8/. English) per acre, according to situa- 
tion and improvement. Terms of purchase are as agreed — generally a portion 
in casJi, and the balance at stated future periods, bearing interest. 

The Government of Canada (which as landowers have taken the place of the 
defunct Canadian Pacific Eailway Company), the Puget Sound Agricultural 
Association, and the Vancouver Coal Mining and Land Company at ISTanaimo, 
which companies own land in the province, are anxious to promote settle- 
ment on their lands on fair terms. I believe that the latter company, in the 
case of working-men, will exchange town lots in the thriving town of 
Nanaimo for land elsewhere in the province, in order to stimulate the growth 



IXFOEMATIOX FOR EMIGEAXTS. 9 

of a town destined to be important. It is a cheering sign, when all persons 
in the province recognise more clearly the great truth that they have a 
common interest. 

Popular Names for Lands— a Word to Intending Settlers. 

Most countries have peculiar names of their own for agricultural lands, and 
lite immigrant, on arriving in British. Columbia, will hear men talking of 
" prairies," " beaver-dam lands," " bottom lands," " tide lands," and " flats." A 
few words to explain these terms may assist him in selecting a proper location. 
The term " prairie," on the " Pacific slope," does not mean the treeless sea of 
grass which is called by that name in the ccDtre of America, east from the 
Eocky range. The Pacific slope prairies may be classed, broadly, as " wet " 
and " dry " prairies. 

" Wet prairies " are level spaces at the meeting (forks) of rivers. They are 
often overflowed in early summer by river " freshets." This kind of prairie is 
also found at the mouths of tidal rivers, where the land is overflowed in 
winter by high tides raised by wind. Extensive specimens of both these 
kinds of " wet prairie" may be seen on the lower part of Fraser River. They 
are generally free of timber, except perhaps some alder shrubs, and produce a 
coarse grass called "swamp hay." Cattle do well on the wet prairies, but cows 
not so well on the salt-water marsh. These prairies need dyking and draining 
in some parts. The soil generally is very rich, and they are considered 
desirable '' locations." In British Columbia they are free from malaria and 
ague. 

The choice pieces of land scattered through forests, and known as '"' alder 
land " (or easily-drained swamp), seem to be, in fact, " wet prairies," on which 
the alder bushes have grown to be trees. Another kind of " wet prairie " is 
" beaver-dam land," that is, flat land made marshy by beavers having 
dammed small streams which run through it. This is very good land gene- 
rally. Small marshes also are common at the head- waters of streams — 
gi'assy spots among the rough mountains, which are xeiy pleasant to the 
traveller and to his horse. We may also class as "wet prairies" the open 
marshes (" tide lands " or "flats") where the sea-coast is low and shelves 
back. These appear to be portions of the raised coast-line. The sand-drift 
encroaches on the wet gTound, and the plants of the two localities grow 
almost together. It is sometimes difficult to get fresh water for cattle on 
these " tide lands." 

" Dry prairies" are open spaces generally near rivers. Some have very 
rich soil, but they are not generally so rich as the wet prairies. They have 
fine grass, beautiful flowers, and often a dense crop of ferns not liked by 
farmers. The pine forest bounds them abruptly hke a regiment of trees called 
to a halt, suggesting to the observer that the "diy prairie" is the remnant of 
larger open tracts which existed in some age with a different climate, and that 
the pines have encroached. The dry prairies are seldom extensive in the West 
Cascade region, 

" Bottom lands" are flat lands in river-valleys or adjoining rivers, dry 
enough to be classed as "dry prairie" land. They generally bear such trees 
as the maple, ash, crab apple, with a stray fir. These trees are easily cleared, 
and as the alluvial soil of the bottom lands is often highly productive, these 
lands are desirable places to settle upon. 



10 BRITISH COLUMBIA: 

The term "dry prairie," or simply "prairie," seems to he popularly applied 
in the East Cascade region (comparatively an unwooded region) to any open 
flat tract, not distinctively a valley, and not large enough to be called a plain 
or plateau. The " Grand Prairie," north-west from Okanagan Lake, is 16 
miles long, and about 2 miles wide, bounded on either side b}'- mountains, 
between which flows a river. It is in fact the piece of a valley, and would be 
called one, were it longer. 

I need not mention names given to the high lands in British Columbia, as 
there is nothing peculiar in these names, except, perhaps, the term " bench,'' 
which is applied to the raised level spaces, or terraces, in some of the river- 
valleys. These terraces run at intervals along both sides of the rivers for 
miles in length; and they recede where the mountains retire, for distances 
back varying from a few acres to a few miles in breadth. They are objects of 
curiosity and speculation, and, from the regularity and evenness of their struc- 
ture, add much to the beauty of the rude scenes in which they occur. They 
generally appear on both sides of the river, and in some places are multiplied 
into several successive level plateaux, rising one above the other as they recede 
from the bank.. 

Transport and Travel, 

Vancouver Island. 

There are no really navigable rivers nor trunk-roads in the island. Several 
district roads are good, particularly near Victoria. The Canadian Pacific 
Ptailway is being made from Esquimalt along the east coast of the island, 
but,Jbr the moment, the sea is the main highway. A Government steamer 
goes weekly to Cowichan, Maple Bay, Admiral Island, Chemanis, and 
Nanaimo, and to Comox fortnightly.* The rates of fare are as follows : — 

From Victoria to — 

Cowichan, Maple Bay, and Admiral Island, single ticket, two dollars 
and fifty cents (10s. English), return ditto, four dollars (I6s. 
English). 
Chemanis, single ticket, three dollars (12s. English), return ditto, five 

dollars (20s. EngUsh). 
iSTanaimo, single ticket, four dollars (16s. English), return ditto, six 

dollars and fifty cents. (26s. English). 
Comox, single ticket, six dollars (24s. English), return ditto, ten dollars 

(40s. English). 
Breakfast and tea, 50 cents (2s. English) each meal ; dinner, 75 cents 
(3s. English). 
Freight. — To all places between Victoria and Nanaimo, three dollars 

(12s. English) per ton of forty feet. 
From Victoria to Comox four dollars (16s. English) per ton. 
All cattle to Cowichan, Maple Bay, and Admiral Island, three dollars (12s. 

English) per head. 
To Chemanis, four dollars (16s. English) ; ISTanaimo, five dollars (20s. 
English) ; and to Comox, six dollars (24s. English). 

* Names of places in this Handbook are spelt as in the Map of the Province, 9th May, 1870, with 
additions January 1871. ^ 



IXFOPvMATIOX FOE E^IIGEAXTS. . 11 

Small animals, sucli as calves, sheep, pigs, &c., from fifty cents (25. Englisli) 
to one dollar and fifty cents (6s. English). 

Mileage. — From Victoria to Cowichan, 36 miles ; thence to ]\Iaple Bay, 
9 miles ; thence to Admiral Island, 5 miles ; thence to Chemanis, 7 miles ; 
thence to Xanaimo, 22 miles; and thence to Comox, 55 miles. 

A second steamer runs along the East Coast, when the traffic seems to 
require an additional one. 

ViCTOEIA (IX YaXCOUVER IsLAXD) AXD XeW ^YESTMINSTER (OX MaIXLAXD). 

A steamer goes regularly twice a week, at least, between Yictoria and Xew 
Westminster ; running time, 6 hours. 

XeW AYESTillXSTEE TO YaLE (HeAD OF XaYIGATIOX OX FeASEE PiIYEE FE03I 

Sea). 

Stern- wheel steamers, which frequently take a day or more according to 
state of the stream. An excellent waggon road has been lately finished, and 
farming homesteads are being made along it. The Government of the 
Dominion have undertaken to make a waggon road through the province, but 
it is not yet located. 

Yale, TO the Ixteeioe. 
(See Roads on the Map.) 

Stage coaches make weekly journeys from Yale (head of steamboat navi- 
gation on the Fraser) to Barkerville, Cariboo, and coaches also run weekly 
from Cache Creek (near the meeting of the Bonaparte and Thompson Pavers) 
to Okanagan, in close connection, at Cache Creek, with the above coaches from 
Yale to Barkerville. The coach-owners carry passengers and freight, deliver'- 
parcels, make collections, and execute commissions. 

Total Cost of PiOads. 

ABOUT £400,000 EXGLISH ($2,000,000). 

Last Yeae's Yote of the Peovixcial Legislatuee foe Koads. 

Repairs to Roads and Trails throiujhout the Province : — 

Dols. 

Victoria District— -Pioads, Streets and Bridges 20,000 00 

Esquimalt ,-, ,, ,, .... .. 8,000 00 

Cowichan Xorth Cowichan Municipality 2,500 00 

, , Eoads from Groldstream to Say ward's Mill . . . . 18 , 000 00 

,, Eoads, Streets, and Bridges 1,000 00 

,, Trunk road, Sayward's Mill to Chemanis .. .. 5,000 00 

Salt Spring Islo.nd Municipality 1,500 00 

Xanaimo Pioads, Streets and Bridges 15,800 00 

Comox Eoads, Trails, and Bridges 8,500 00 

Courtenay Eiver Bridge 3,000 00 

Xew Y^estminster District, Langley ^Municipality .. .. 1,500 00 

,, Chilliwhack Municipality ' \ .. .. 1,500 00 

,, Eoads, Street, and Bridges 86,600 00 

Cm-led forward 172,900 00 



12 BKITISH COLUMBIA: 

Brought foruard ., .. 172,900 00 

Yale District Eoads, Streets, and Bridges 80,600 00 

Lillooet ,, ,, ,, ,, 8,800 00 

Kootenay , , , , , , , , 6 , 500 00 

Cariboo ,, ,, ,, ,, 36,500 00 

Cassiar Trail from Fort Fraser to Dease's Lake 5,000 00 

Supplementary vote 12,395 00 

1322,695 00 
( = £G4,539Eng.). 

Taxes for District Eoads. 
Every settler pays 2 dollars poll-tax. Land up to 10 acres is free. Land- 
owners having more than 10 acres pay a yearly road-tax of 4 cents (2d English) 
per acre, which is reduced to 2 cents per acre for land leased from the Crown 
for pastoral or other purposes. The money is spent where collected. 

Descriftion of British Columbian Waggok-Eoads. 

Superior to the public roads of most young countries. They are 18 feet 
wide, the surface being covered with broken stone, where (as in most joai-ts 
along the Fraser and Thompson Kivers) such material is at hand, or with 
gravel well cambered up in the centre, with ditches on one or both sides w^here 
required. 

With the exception of some short pitches as steep as one foot in ten, the 
sharpest inclines throughout the trunk waggon-road from Yale to Savona's Ferry 
are of 1 foot in 12, the curves being easy, and the bridges and culverts sub- 
stantially built of timber. 

Loads of 7 and 8 tons are hauled along them, by mules or oxen, at an 
average draught load of 1200 lbs. to 1300 lbs. to each animal, and the mail 
coach, drawn by six horses, travels between Yale and Cariboo at the rate of 
9 miles an hour. 



The Young- Country Eoad Grievance. 

This is the grievance of settlers in all countries, but with less reason in 
British Columbia than in many other places. Considering the newness of the 
country, there are excellent roads both on the island and mainland. It is 
inevitable, in all young countries, that fine districts should be unoccupied for 
want of roads. The cure takes a long time. In wooded countries especially, 
the want of roads and the difficulty and expense of making roads and keeping 
them open, are great drawbacks to settlement. When settlers go back from 
the road already made the obstruction and expense begin anew. Fortunately, 
British Columbia, in addition to her fertile wooded lands, has alluvial fiats, 
prairies, and extensive irrigable valleys, open or partly open, through which 
roads can be made without excessive difficulty, v/hen needed and the province 
is able to make them. 

The work of road-making is being yearly prosecuted with vigour, and many 
districts that were a short time ago difficult of access, have now good roads 
and bridges connecting them with the main roads of the Province. 



INFOEMATION FOK EMIGEANTS. 13 

EiVER AND Lake Navigatiox. 

Steamboats can rim up from Xew Westminster to Douglas, the head of 
steamboat navigation on Harrison Lake (50 miles from mouth of Harrison 
Eiver), as well as from New Westminster to Yale, but the Douglas route to 
the interior is not at present used. 

The Fraser River, above Yale, is not available at present for much naviga- 
tion. A steamer relieves transport on the v^^aggon road when required, from 
Soda Creek, 20 miles below Alexandria, to Quesnel (see Map), 40 miles above 
that point ; or some 20 miles higher when necessary. The navigation is then 
interrupted by a rapid, the ascent of which is not attempted. Above this point 
there is clear navigation for steamers for a distance of 60 miles, to within 20 
miles of Fort George, where another rapid, impracticable for steamers, occurs. 
From this point upwards, both by the Stuart and Fraser Lake branches, and in 
the direction of Tete Jaune's Cache, there are stretches very favourable for 
steam navigation ; but the occasional breaks are a great drawback. Neverthe- 
less, with the extension of mining operations these portions of the river will 
doubtless in time be made available, in parts, so as to meet the increased 
demand for transport ; and inducements for settlement will thus arise in the 
upper portion of the province which do not at present exist. 

There is a useful stretch of navigation on the Thompson River. From 
Savona's, at the lower (western) end of Kamloops Lake, uninterrupted steam- 
boat navigation extends through Kamloops Lake, and up the South Thompson 
River to the upper (eastern) end of Great Shuswap Lake, a distance of 115 miles, 
and also up the North Branch of Thompson River, which joins the South 
Thompson at Fort Kamloops, to a distance of 85 miles from the latter post. 

The Columbia, Nasse, and Skena Rivers are navigable for short distances 
by light steamboats. So also, of course, are the Okanagan and other lakes. 

Steamboats now run from Victoria to Fort Wrangel at the mouth of the 
Stickeen River, where they connect with light river-boats for the new mining 
district of Cassiar, 

Travelling may be said to be at present very expensive in British Columbia, 
whether by steamboat or coach, compared with the cost of travel in Eastern 
Canada or England. 

Climate. 

This is perhaps the main point in choosing a place for a home. Parents 
will agree with me that fair fields and meadows are little to the emigrant, if 
they generate fever-producing miasm and vapour. What are soft breezes 
if they waft the seeds of pestilence ? What cares a man for golden grain and 
mellow fruits, or indeed for all that this world can yield, if disease annually 
visit his dwelling? British Columbia may be said to be the very land of 
health — for man, for beast, for tree. This fact will have a mighty influence 
on her future. 

General Characteristics of Climate. 

The firie climate should he knoivn everywhere — variable, but healthful and 
agreeable — nights cool, very suitable to the Anglo-Saxon constitution, and, 
indeed, to all races and temperaments — the altitude, irregularity of surface, 
serene air and absence of marshy plains, promise health and long life to the 
settler — no malaria or ague— good in cases of functional and nervous debility 



14 BPJTISH COLUMBIA: 

— makes people feel vigorous and wide awake — the climate of a large part of 
the East Cascade region not imfavourable for chest affections. Over a great/ 
portion of the province the climate is that of England, with rather agreeable 
differences — no biting east winds, for instance. Over another portion, the 
-climate resembles that of France. The larger lakes do not freeze over, nor 
do the large rivers ever close entirely up. Severe winters seem to come about 
•once every eight or ten years, but what we call " severe winters " are less 
severe than the ordinary winters in Eastern Canada or the Northern States of 
the Union. Elevated districts, of course, have the climate that everywhere 
'belongs to them, but even tiie roughest mountain climate in British Columbia 
is healthful. 

Climatic Divisions. 

AVest Cascade Eegiox. 

Near the sea — say, west of Cascade Eange generalh', and in Vancouver 
Island, seldom over 80° Fahrenheit in shade on the hottest day in summer, 
;and rarely falling to 20° Fahrenheit in winter. Genial, though rather humid ; 
humidity increases as you go north. Summer beautiful, with some rainy 
days ; autumn, bright and fine ; winter, frosty and rainy by turns ; the spring 
■very wet. Snow falls to the depth of several inches, rarely to the depth of a 
foot — melts quickly. When the atmosphere is clear, heavy dews fall at nights, 
and fogs are common during October and November ; summer mists rare, 
partial, and transitory ; no tornadoes, such as sweep over Illinois and other 
Northern States of the Union, and occasionally visit New England. Brilliant 
weather in winter, sometimes for a month at a time. I include Vancouver 
Island above as part of the " West Cascade region," because the climate is 
similar. Of course, were the matter gone into exhaustively, the island climate 
would present insular peculiarities. 

East Cascade Eegion. 

Climate different from the climate west of Cascade Eange. Heat and cold- 
greater ; almost continuously hot in summer, but not so as to destroy vege- 
tation. Little rain; warm rains, perhaps, April and May — again, but not 
always, in August and September. Winter changeable ; November frosty, 
December, January, and Febniary cold and wintry, but generally clear and 
sunny ; little ice ; snow say afoot deep on an average of years — melts quickly, 
winds melt it, and often leave ground bare for weeks. March and April vari- 
•able ; plains then begin to show grass. Hill-sides, in some places, show green 
grass in March. Irrigation generally requu'ed in this region. 

The above description applies to an immense territory in the southern portion 
of the " East Cascade region." The description must be modified as regai'ds 
certain districts. Approximation to the Eockj'- Eange, or to the rugged 
Cariboo and other mountains, has its natural effect ; trees abound, more rain 
falls, snow is deeper. On the upper parts of the Fi-aser Eiver, the winter is 
■capricious ; very severe cold for a few days, then fluctuating near freezing- 
point ; another interval of intense cold, and then perhaps spring comes all at 
-once. In the south-eastern corner of the province, a re-modification takes 
place. The effect of approximation to the Eocky Eange is there mitigated by 
the influence of approximation to the border of the Great American Desert 



INFOKMATION FOR EMIGKANTS. 15 

whicli stretches south to Mexico. About the headwaters of the Columhia, the 
climate is delightful ; extremes are rare ; snow generally goes as it falls. The 
scenery is very grand, and it is therefore probable that, wdien made accessible, 
this region will be the resort of thousands of invalids. Again, where depres- 
sions in the Eocky Range occur, towards which we may suppose that the 
Pacific Ocean %vind,s are drawn in their passage eastward, approximation to 
the Range does not injure the climate. For instance, near Jasper House, and 
for some distance in the Athabasca Valky (see map), snow never accumulates ; 
there is constant grass ; warm rains sometimes fall in January. The same 
may be said of other parts. 

Public Debt. 

The Province has no public debt, but the claims of a rapid industrial 
developement will probably soon remove this peculiarity. 



Taxation. 

The settler in British Columbia at present pays no taxes except the road-tax, 
and a tax which is paid indirectly to the General Grovernment of Canada, 
averaging about 15 per cent, on imports. The Government of the Province 
is supported by an annual fixed subsidy from the General Government of 
Canada. Moderate taxation may be imposed in future in the province by the 
Provincial Legislature, to enable improvements to be made for the advantage 
of settlers. 

This is a contrast to the heavy Federal and State taxes, and burdensome 
indirect taxes paid by settlers in the United States. 

The advantage which a settler in British Columbia has, in respect of taxation, 
over a settler in Washington territory, Oregon, California, or other States of the 
Union, is, that the British Columbian settler pays about 15 per cent, all round 
on what he consumes, and the United States settler pays about as follows : — 

The farmer in the United States is taxed for trousers he wears 60 per cent. ; 
flannel shirt, 65 per cent. ; vest, 60 per cent. ; on the cloth for an overcoat, 60 
per cent. ; for the buttons, 40 ; braid, 60 ; lining, 60 ; padding, 150 ; boots, 
35 ; coal, 60 ; 150 per cent, on the stove-pipe ; stove, 55 ; 40 per cent, on the 
saucepan. His dinner plate is taxed 45 per cent. ; his knife and fork, 35 per 
cent. His hat is taxed 70 per cent. ; cigar, 150 per cent. ; horse-shoe nails are 
taxed 67 per cent. ; plough, 45 per cent. ; chains, 100 per cent. ; and harness, 
35 per cent. His pocket handkerchief, 35 per cent. ; shawls for his wife and 
daughter, 200 per cent. ; silk dress for Sunday and holiday, 60 per cent. ; 
woollen dress, 100 per cent. ; wdfe and daughter's hats, 40 per cent. ; stockings 
for his family, 75 per cent. ; female boots, 35 per cent. ; ribbon bow for neck, 
60 per cent. ; umbrella, 60 per cent. ; rice, 82 ; soap, 70 per cent. ; candles, 40 
per cent. ; paint, 25 per cent. ; starch, 50 -per cent. ; needles, 25 per cent. ; 
thread, 73 per cent. ; steel pen, 70 per cent. ; pins, 35 per cent. ; books, 25 per 
cent. His fowlingpiece is taxed 35 per cent. ; window curtains, 80 per cent. ; 
window shades, 35 per cent. ; window glass, 55 per cent. ; wall paper, 32 per 
cent. ; wash basin, 40 per cent. ; sheeting, 55 per cent. ; blanket, 540 
per cent. ! ! His bedstead is taxed 20 per cent. ; if sick and needs quinine, 
it is taxed 45 per cent., besides the glass phial in which he buys it. His axe is 



IC BRITISH COLUMBIA: 

taxed 45 per cent. ; liammer, 50 per cent. ; watering-pot for garden, 35 per cent. : 
pocket-knife, 50 per cent. ; scythe, 50 per cent. ; screws, 150 per cent. ; garden 
and farm implements, 45 per cent. ; dinner-can, 35 per cent. ; well-bucket, 
60 per cent. ; hand-saw, 75 per cent. ; and his produce is carried to market on 
steel rails taxed at 3000 dollars a mile, and which he must pay for in exorbi- 
tant freight. The iron car in which his crop is conveyed is taxed 40 percent., 
and the locomotive which draws it all, and which draws so much unnecessary 
profits from his crop, is taxed 45 per cent. 

The United States settler, additionally, has to pay a State tax, which each 
State collects for State purposes. In New York State this amounts to 
11^ dollars (46 shillings English) per head. In British Columbia, there are, 
as above said, no provincial taxes at present except a trifling tax for roads. 

The British Columbian farmer gets higher prices for his farm produce than 
the average price obtained in the United States. 

Average Wages in British Columbia. 

Bookbinders 14s. a day 

Blacksmiths 14s. to 16s. , , 

Bread and Biscuit Bakers 8?. to 9?. a month, with board 

Butchers 107. to 127. ,, with meat 

Bricklayers 12s. a day 

Carpenters and Joiners 12s. to 16.s. ,, 

Cabinet-makers 16s. ,, 

Coopers 16s. ,, 

Carters with horse and cart 20s. , , 

Coachmen and grooms S/. a month, and board 

Cooks 67. to 

Dairy- women , , 

Dressmakers and INIilliners , , 

Farm Labourers ,, ,, ,, (see p. 45.) 

Gardeners , , 

Household Servants 4/. to 57. ,, ,, (see p. 23.) 

Labourers (day) 10s. a day 

Mechanics 14s. to 16s. ,, 

Masons 14s. to 16s. ,, 

Painters and Grlaziers 14s. to 16s. ,, 

Plasterers 14s. to 16s. ,, 

Plumbers 12s. to 16s. ,, 

Policemen 87. to 107. a month 

Shoemakers 12s. to 14s. a day 

Stonemasons 12s. to 16s. ,, 

Saddlers 10s. to 12s. ,, 

Slaters and Shinglers 12s. to 14s. ,, 

Tanners 12s. to 16s. , , 

Tailors 12s. to 14s. ,, 

Tinsmiths 16s. to 20s. ,, 

Wheelwrights 16s. ,, 

These are the highest rates of wages in Vancouver Island, and the Xew 
Westminster district. In the interior of the Mainland, wages are higher still, 



INFOEMATION FOR EMIGEANTS. 17 

and at the mines the wages of labourers reach 32s. and 40s. a day at times ; 
but the mining season lasts only for a portion of the year.* 

The wages in British Columbia are, therefore, attractive ; but it must be 
clearly understood by the emigrant that the country is so young at present 
that the prospect of continuous day-by-day employment cannot be very con- 
fidently held out to a number of skilled artizans, or even to common labourers 
if numbered by thousands. The province has not at present the resources of a 
large settled population, whose varied wants multiply indefinitely the chances 
of emplojnnent. We want producers specially at this time — men of large 
and men of small capital — and we hope the employer and the labourer will 
come together. 

The demand for labour is comparatively small, because there is not as yet 
sufficient capital to employ a very large number of labourers. When it is 
brought, the field of labour will be seen to be unbounded. The number of 
situations, however, is increasing every month, consequent upon the progress 
of the country, the building of the Graving Dock at Esquimalt and other 
XDublic works, and the beginning of the Canadian Pacific Railway within the 
province. The construction of the latter will afi'ord employment to suitable 
men for many years. But apart from suitable classes, it were best that no great 
" rush " of emigrants took place. The Agent-General will always be ready to 
■give the best information which he possesses without any colouring. The 
country is sure to go a-head — the luJiole northwest of America is moving — but 
sound judgment dictates at present that British Columbia be peopled little by 
little. Any man with confidence in himself, however, may take his own 
course, and if the experience of other colonies may be a guide, such men, if 
ready for manual work at first, often " fall on their feet." A mixed emigration 
of employers and labourers is generally best for young countries. 

The purchasing power of the above wages — the true test — is very great, as 
will be seen by comparing them with the prices of the common necessaries of 
life, and still more with the price of land. The climate, over a great part of 
the province, also is such as to enable a workman to work much out of doors 
both in summer and winter. 

A thrifty man may lay past every day the price of an acre of land. 

I invite every working man's attention to the following fact : — The labourer 
who puts his own labour into a piece of his own land in British Columbia, 
in reality pays himself the above high wages for farm-labour, and he besides 
makes a home, and improves property which must rise steadily in value, and 
which up to 2500 dollars (500Z. English) cannot be touched for debt (see 
Homestead Act). 

Many farm-labourers in the province put their earnings into cattle, which 
are allowed to run with their employers' herds. These are protected from 
seizure from debt by the Cattle Exemption Act. 

* Compare the above wages with the wages in the eastern portions of the Dominion, which are 
about as follows : 

Agricultural labourers in Eastern Canada are paid from 25?. to 30Z. a year, with board; and from 
50/. to 601. a year, without board. 

Skilled farm hands are paid from 30Z. to 40L a year with board. 

Common labourers receive from 5s. to 6s. a day, and find their own food. 

Mechanics are paid from 6s. to 16s. a day. 

The wages of female servants vary from 16s. to 2l. a month, with board; but higher rates are 
paid according to capacity, very common rates being from 245. to 32s. a month. 

Boys in situations receive from 16s. to 21. a month, with board, according to age and capacity. 

C 



18 



BHITISH COLUMBIA: 



Xotliing but ignorance and untbrift keeps men from saving money in 
order to settle in a Land wbere labour can soon employ itself without asking- 
leave of capital, and wbere a man can be bis own employer and receive 
exactly all be earns, be tbe same less or more. 

Savings-Banks. 

Dominion Government Savings-banks at Yictoria, Kanaimo, and New 
Westminster — quite safe of course — deposits not less tban a dollar and mul- 
tiples of a dollar (4s. English) — 5 per cent, per annum interest added at 30tb 
June — money returned on demand to extent of 100 dollars (20/. English) — 
seven days' notice for any sum over 100 dollars — office hours 10 to 3 — 
Saturdays, 10 to 12. 

Immigrants should put their money into the Savings, or other good Banks. 



Money Table. 

Table fob coxvertijtg British Monet into British Columbia Moxey^ 
AND British Columbia Monet into British Monet. 







Equivalent in 


British 








Britisli Money. 


British Columbian 
Money. 


Columbian 
Money. 


British Money. 






£ s. d. 


doUars cts. 


dollars cts. 


£ S. d. 






1 


02 


01 


Oh 






2 


04 


02 


1 






3 


06 


03 


1^ 






4 


08 


05 


2i 






5 


10 


10 


5 






6 


12 


15 


n 






7 


14 


20 


10 






8 


16 


25 


1 Q>h 






10 


20 


50 


2 1 






11 


22 


1 00 


4 1 






1 


24 


2 00 


8 3 






1 s 


30 


3 00 


12 5 






1 6 


36 


4 00 


16 5 






1 9 


43 


5 00 


1 61 






2 


49 


6 00 


14 8 






2 6 


61 


10 00 


2 1 1 






5 


1 22 


20 00 


4 2 2^ 






10 


2 43 


25 00 


5 2 9 




r- 


10 


4 87 


50 00 


10 5 61 






5 


24 33 


100 00 


20 10 11^ 






10 


1 48 67 


500 00 


102 14 9^ 






25 


i 121 67 


1,000 00 


205 9 7 






100 


486 67 


5,000 00 


1,027 7 Hi 






1000 


: 4,866 67 


10,000 00 


2,054 15 10^ 





For general purposes, it will be sufficient to remember that the British 
Columbian cent and the English half-penny are almost the same in value. 



IXFOEMATION FOE ElUGKANTS. 



19 



Cost of the Commox Articles of Household Coxsumptiox axd Use ix 

British Columbia, axd compaeisox of the same with Exglish axd 

Easterx Caxada Prices ix 1874. 



Abticxes of CoxsnrPTiox. 



British 
Columbia. 



Bread, per lb j 

Beer, per gallon | 

Beef, per lb 

Bacon , , '0 

Butter (fresb) l 

Candles , 

Cheese, per lb j 

Coals, per ton | 

Coffee, per lb. (ground) j 1 

Eggs, per doz 1 

Firewood ! 

Lard, per lb i 







d. s. d. 
2i to 3 



6 

10 

1 10 



See page 



Mutton 

Pork 

Potatoes 

Pace 

Sugar 

Tea 



7 


, 


9 


5 


, 


7 


7 


, 


9 







n 







4 


44 


, 


6* 


6 


, 3 






England. 



Eastern ProviLces 
of Canada. 





1 

11 to 1 

1 

1 

7 „ 



31 

1 

1 

1 

n 








4 
4 



11 
lOJ- 

3i 

4+ 



Boots, IZ. apair: trousers, lAs. to 20s. a pair; coats, 30s. to 40s.; cotton shirts, 4s.; flannel 
shirts, 8«.; socks, is. 6d a pair; cotton stuif, Is. 6d. a yard; dress stuff, 2s. a yard. 
Brandy, 20s. per gallon ; -whisky, 12s. per gallon; gin, 12s. per gallon. 

The above are the prices on the seaboard of British Columbia. The prices 
of foreign produce are higher in the interior, oTving to the high cost of land 
carnage, and this T^'ill probably continue so nntil the Canadian Pacific Piailway 
is finished. 

Weights and measures are the imperial ; but by agreement, the American 
gallon, which is about one-fifth less, is sometimes used. The American ton 
is 2000 lbs., not 2240 lbs. 

A consideration of the above prices of the princij^al articles of household 
consumption in British Columbia will show to the small farmer, to the me- 
chanic, and to the farm -labourer, and, indeed, to many others, that these prices 
permit a family of moderate means to have a plentiful supply of excellent 
food, and household and personal comforts. 

There cannot be found anywhere more charming places of residence than 
in several towns and districts of British Columbia. It is therefore extremely 
likely that, as soon as communications are improved from California, a matter 
which is under the care of the Dominion Government, visitors will reach the 
province from Xew Orleans, St. Louis, Chicago, and other places. We expect 
also residents attracted hj the climate, scenery, good schools, and abundance 
of choice meat, game, and vegetables at moderate prices. 

The main difficulty at present for residents is the wages of household 
servants and the difficulty of getting them. 

For the information of intending residents, I state here the estimated 
expenditure at this time on necessaries of a small family, in a city in 
England with an income of 300?. a year ; and I compare the same for British 
Columbia (seaboard districts). 



c 2 



20 



BRITISH COLUMBIA : 



ENGLAND. 

Per Annum. 

£ s. d. 

Rent, rates and taxes 49 10 

Servants' wages (15J. and 9J.) .. . . 24 
Butcher: 23 lbs. at \Qd. = \%s. 2d. 

per week 49 16 8 

Baker : 10^ quarterns at S^-d. ; i peck 
flour at is. Id. = 8s. 6d. per week 22 3 1 

Grocer : s. d. 

1 lb. tea at 3s. 4d 3 4 

1 lb. sugar at 6d 6 

5 lbs. brown sugar at 5^ 2 3^^ 

2i lbs. butter at Is. lOd. 4 H 

Spice 6 

1 lb. cheese at Is. Id. . . 11 

li lb. bacon at Is. . . 16 

3 lbs. rice, &c., at 3id. lOi 

Candles 1 6 

Per week . . . . 15 8| = 40 16 10 

186 6 7 

Vegetables and fruit 8 8 

H qr. milk at 5d. = lid. per day . . 11 7 6 

Beer 9 18 10 

8 tons coal at 32s 12 16 



BRITISH COLUMBIA. 



228 16 11 















Per Annum. 














£ 


s. d. 














45 
50 





.. .. 


.. .. 




(one servant) 





Butcher 


.• at 6d 


. per 


Ib.r 


1:115. Qd. 






per w 


eek .. 










29 


18 


BaJcer : 


10+ 


quarters 


at lOd. 






i peck flour at 2id. per 


•lb. 


(14 lbs. 






in the 


peck)= 


-9s. 


5Jd. 


per 


week 


24 


12 11 


s. d. 
















3 4 
















10 
















2 3i 
















4 H 
















6 
















1 6 
















1 
















1 
















1 8 
















16 3 












42 


5 




191 


15 U 














8 
11 
14 
18 


8 














7 6 














18 3 


.. .. 


.. .. 


(at 


45s. 


per 


ton) 






244 9 8 



The principal difference is in servants' wages. The cost of coals and milk 
may be reduced in British Columbia, by having a place out of town with 
grass for a cow, and wood-fuel for the cost of cutting and hauling. Game and 
.fish are much cheaper in British Columbia than in England. 

The natural productions of British Columbia (berries, animals, birds, and 
fish) afford good help for food. Thirty thousand Indians at least have lived 
upon these natural productions for nobody knows how long, without, so far as 
we can judge, lessening their growth appreciably in the districts inhabited by 
Indians. 

Eatable Wild Fruits. 

There are hosts of these everywhere, and they attain a size and flavour such 
as cultivation only can impart in England. The cranberry is an article of 
trade. 

The cranberries grow in swampy places — plentiful near Xew AVestminster 
and Nanaimo. Picked in the proper season (towards the end of September) 
cranberries will keep well for more than a^year, by being simply put into a 
water-tight cask filled with water. 

A correspondent at Nanaimo writes recently, " I think this year one of the 
most prolific for wild fruit, every bush and tree is literally weighed down ; 
tons upon tons of all kinds must rot in the bush — truly our land does flow" 
with milk and honey." 

Beasts of the Chase. 

Various, and in parts very numerous — not dangerous, except the grizzl}'' 
bear. 

The principal ones for food are the black-tailed deer — capital venison, sold 
by the joint 6 to 10 cents. (3(i. to Zd. English) per lb. — very numerous every- 
where, but not north of Fort George — come upon low lands, or near the coast 



IXFOEXATIOX FOE EMIGRANTS. 21 

in winter. Also the Large Xorth-AYestern Stag, called " Elk " — very numerous 
in interior of Vancouver and on the coast of the mainland, up to aboiit 52'', 
for about 200 miles inland — very good food — as big as a small horse. 

The Eein Deer — (Cariboo)— mountainous regions, north of 51^ on the coast 
or 49^ inland —plenty in Chilcotin — is also fine food. 

Hares abound periodically on mainland east of Cascade Eange — found on the 
Bonaparte. 

Birds. 

Grouse, of various kinds, are found almost everywhere in the island and 
mainland — in the thick fern near a tiny stream — perched on crab-apple or 
young fir-trees, or dnimming on a pine top. Ordinary price of a grouse is 
12i cents (6c?. English). Packs of prairie chickens in all the open valleys of 
the East Cascade region. Quails have been introduced, and are becoming 
numerous. Ptarmigan, on the high mountains — a stray cock of the plains 
(sage hen) occasionally about Osoyoos. Numerous wild geese — price 25 tc 
50 cents (Is. to 2s. English) each. "Wild ducks, 25 to 375 cents (Is. to Is. 6d. 
English) a brace. Snipe and pigeons plentiful. The mouth of Eraser Eiver 
a great resort of wild fowl. Capital sport. 

Plumage birds very beautiful — song birds not remarkable. 

Several harmless varieties of snakes. A few rattlesnakes in southern }X)rtion 
of East Cascade region. A rattlesnake is not bad foodj but there is no occasion 
to eat it. 

Fish. 

Sea fish, and lake and river fish, most abundant — one of the chief resources 
of the province for consumption and exportation. 

Salmon, very numerous at various periods, from early spring to end of 
summer. All the larger streams along the coast abound with salmon ; they 
also go 700 miles up the Eraser. At the regular shops, salmon and other fine 
fish are sold at 6 to 8 cents (od. to 4c?. Enghsh) per lb. ; but the Indians 
frequently sell salmon at 12i to 25 cents (6c?. to Is. English) for a good-sized 
fish. Salted salmon are sold at about 7 dollars (28s. English) for baiTel of 
200 lbs. 

Sturgeon, halibut, cod, herrings, oysters, and crabs, are plentiful in the 
sea-board districts, and are sold at prices that would be considered absurdly 
cheap in England. Good fish abound in the numerous lakes and rivers of the 
interior. 

Housing. 

Houses — commonly wooden, some brick and stone. Saw-mills in principal 

places — Xanaimo, Xew Westminster, Hope, Yale, and Lytton district : 

Lillooet and Clinton district ; Kootenay and Columbia district. Ordinary 

prices of sawn wood (lumber), outside mining districts, delivered at the mill : — 

Dressed flooring per mille feet 20 dollars ( 4?. English). 

„ cedar „ 

„ white pine „ 

„ maple „ 

Piough cedar „ 

„ white pine ,, 

„• maple „ 

„ lumber „ 

(The measure is a foot — 12 inches square and 1 inch thick.) 



35 „ 


( -I „ ). 


40 „ 


( 8?. „ \ 


50 


(10?. „ ). 


25 „ 


(5?. „ ). 


30 „ 


( 6?. „ ). 


40 „ 


(8?. „ ). 


12-50 „ 


(2?. 10s „ ). 



22 BRITISH COLUMBIA: 

Cost of wooden house depends, of course, on size and finisliing. Three- 
roomed cottage, 500 dollars (100?. English). Eents of cottages range from 
5 dollars (11. English) to 25 dollars (51. English) per month. Opportunities 
are frequently available to workmen for purchasing a building lot and erecting 
a cottage, to be paid for by easy instalments. In the country, rents are much 
lower than in towns, and, besides, there is often the advantage of a garden, and 
keep of a cow, pigs, and poultry. For temporary accommodation, a man often 
puts up the one-roomed house, called a *' shanty." Country settler, not near 
saw-mill, puts up a log house. Neighbours will help. Cost about 30 dollars 
(67. English). Build for sunshine — avoid low ground. Have flowers, and 
also books for the children's sake. Successful settlers often speak of the happy 
days in the old log-house. 

Materials for brick and stone houses plentiful — cost not excessive. Bricks 
made in many places — Victoria and New Westminster, &c. — cost, 10 dollars 
21. English) per thousand at the kiln. Fire-clay not found. 

Fuel. 

Coal is used to some extent in Victoria, and costs 10 to 11 dollars (40s. to 
4:4s. English) per ton. Wood is the common fuel, and farmers generally have 
enough on their land. The price in the seaboard towns is, say 3i to 4 dollars 
(14s. to 16s. English) per " cord " of firewood delivered. A cord is 8 feet 
long, 4 feet high, and 4 feet broad. Wood is dearer at the gold mines. It 
must be cut after delivery into suitable lengths for household use. This will 
cost about 1| dollar (Qs. English) per cord, but many householders themselves 
cut it.* 

Board and Lodging. 

Ordinary present advertised rates in good second-class hotels are as 
follows : — 
Victoria — 

Board and lodguig, per week, oh to 65 dollars (22s. to 26s. English). 

„ „ per day, 1 dollar (4s. English). 

Single meals, Sli cents (Is. 6c?. English). 
Beds, 50 cents (2s. English). 

(Cash in advance.) 
New Westininster — 

Board and lodging, per week, 7 dollars (28s. English). 
Board, 5 dollars (20s. English). 
Single meals, 50 cents (2s. English). 
Beds, 50 cents (2s. EngHsh). 
Clinton — 

Board and lodging, per week, 8 dollars (32s. English). 
Single meals, 75 cents (3s. English). 
Beds, 50 cents (2s. English). 

* Fuel iu Eastern Canada is rather an expensive item ; being nearly equal to tlie rent. "Wood 
costs there in the country from 5s. to 20s. per cord, and in cities from 20s. to 30s., besides the cost of 
sawing and chopping, which is from 4s. to 6s. additional. This latter item, however, can be saved, if 
the workman will saw and chop tlie wood himself, which is almost universally the case. Coal is 
burnt only in the cities and largest towns of Eastern Canada. The price is from 29s. to 33s. a ton for 
the ordinary soft coal, which is burnt in the open grates, and from 31s. to 39s. for the hard 
anthracite coal, which is burnt in the stoves. A cord of wood contains 128 cubic feet, tha load 
containing a cord generally being 8 feet long, 4 feet high, and 4 feet broad. A cord of wood is 
usually considered equal in heating and lasting power to half a ton of coal, and lasts about a month 
in winter and about two months in summer. 



INFORMATION FOE ElIIGEANTS. 23 

At the Cariboo mines higher — I believe 12 dollars and upwards (48s. English) 
3, week for board and lodging. 

Household Servants. 

Scarce ; wages high, 10 dollars to 12 dollars (lOs. to 48s. English) a month 
for nurse-girls; 20 to 25 dollars, and even 30 dollars (4Z. to 51, to 61. English) 
a month with board for general house-servants, having some knowledge of 
cooking ; a considerable number of well-principled, competent women servants 
can be employed in respectable families — those accustomed to country work 
are most wanted — many men of good character and means are pining for 
wives in the country districts. 

China women do not take servants' places. China men are employed as 
cooks at 20 to 25 dollars (4L to 5?. English) a month with board. They cut 
fire- wood, light fires, clean boots, &c., but a good deal of the household work, 
nevertheless, falls on members of the family. China men are quiet, but many 
heads of famihes object to them. Indian cooks (men) are employed at 20 to 
25 dollars (4Z. to 51. English) with board, and make fair servants when em- 
ployers understand their character. 

A good woman servant might soon make money. For men there is an 
open field with no favour. For women an open field full of favours. Unfor- 
tunately it has been found that some of those women who have reached the 
province have been fickle. Many of them have been disinclined to go to 
country work, and some have "tip-tilted" their noses at everything. Sm-ely, 
however, the right class can be found, when wages are so good. 

The best plan at present for persons of moderate means is to do without 
servants ; getting help for wood cutting, washing, and scrubbing floors. The 
idea may be one to shrink from, but this plan is not burdensome in actual 
every-day life. A settler will find many doing this in the province who are 
socially his equals. 

Who should go. 

If a man is prosperous, healthy, and contented where he is, there let him 
stay among his relations and early friends. But if he cannot make the 
wealth-producing power of his labour available, if he is restless and uneasy 
about his own future and that of his children, and is prepared to emigTate, 
let him consider the advantages which British Columbia affords. He will 
find at first that the travel and change of life will raise his spirits ; then will 
come a x^eriod of depression, .under the rough task of beginning in a new 
country, to be followed by the feeling of security of home and subsistence, 
which is the most solid blessing to a man. ^Yhatever may have been his 
former station, he will find that in the province, he may work in his own 
fields with his own hands, and neither feel it to be a degradation in his own 
eyes, nor in the eyes of those around him. His mind bowed down lately, 
perhaps, by care and anxiety, will recover its natural independence. His 
family, instead of being a burden, will be a solace and help to him. If lie 
sets to work resolutely, and is sober and careful of his money, he will never 
regret the change of life which he has made. This is an undoubted truth, 
as I know from the mouths of hundreds of settlers, who have overcome early 
difficulties, and settled permanently in the country; nevertheless it is not 
now an easy matter to answer letters which I frequently receive, asking me 



24 BRITISH COLUMBIA: 

to state tlie actual advantages from different occupations and investments in 
the province. Xo man can answer sucli questions satisfactorily, without 
second sight, and the power to gauge moral dispositions. I might draw up 
statements on paper which might prove fallacious in practice — so much 
depends on the individual himself in every colonial undertaking. It will, 
therefore, be more prudent on my part to give general advice, the application 
of which to special cases must be the business of each individual himself. 

We cannot at present encourage the emigration of more than a few frofes- 
uonal men, such as lawyers, doctors, surveyors, and civil engineers, unless 
they have money beyond the expected earnings of their profession, and are 
j^repared to take their chances after arrival. Clerks, shopmen, or those having 
no particular trade or calling, and men not accustomed to rough work with, 
their hands, if without means of their own, would probably meet with dis- 
appointment, and, perhaps, hardship. Tutors, governesses, housekeepers, 
needlewomen, and women generally above the grade of domestic servants, should 
riot go alone to the province at present, and they should not go at all, unless 
to join friends or relatives able to maintain them for some time after arrival. 

Men who hang about the G-oveniment ofiSces in search of "appointments" 
are nuisances in all colonies, and British Columbia has had her share of this 
class already. The only way to get an " appointment " in the province is 
by recommending oneself to one's fellow citizens, by sharing for years in 
the hard work and honest toil on which all young countries depend for their 
stability and progress. 

A smart, active, ca^paUe man, with only a little money, but accustomed to 
work with his hands, is, however, sure to succeed in making a comfortable 
home in British Columbia. Wages, as already shown, are very high ; land, 
food, and house materials are cheap. If such a settler has a strong heart 
himself, and is blessed with a common-sense wife used to country work, he 
may confidently look forward to becoming even rich. He need not long 
remain in the condition of a labourer. This certainty of rising in the social 
scale must stimulate the emigrant. His chances will be greatly improved if 
he is a country meclianic, w^ho can carry on his trade and also farm for him- 
self. Farming is often carried on in shares — the man of no capital giving 
his labour for a reasonable proportion of the profits. 

To farmers^ sons, or persons vAtli moderate means, qualified for the life of 
a settler in a new country, who cannot see openings in older countries — who 
cannot go up, because the passages are blocked — who cannot go down because 
their habits and pride forbid — to such persons I say — " go to the province, 
set to work at something — no matter what ; give up old country notions : by- 
and-by take up a farm ; grow fields of grain ; have an orchard ; establish a 
dairy ; rear pigs and poultry ; get a band of cattle or a flock of sheep ; sub- 
scribe to a librarj^ ; avoid whisky ; be industrious and patient, and success 
in your case also is certain. If you feel faint-hearted at any time under the 
new conditions of your life, bear in mind that the men who tackled the 
wilderness, and made homes out of the primitive forests of Eastern Canada, 
Xew England, and Pennsylvania, had little money in their pockets. They 
paid more for their land than you will have to pay for land in British Columbia ; 
they worked in a far inferior climate ; they sold their produce at much lower 
rates. You can do what they did, if you will, and with far less privation 
than confronted them." 



rNTOEIVIATIOX FOR EMIGEAXTS. 25 

Tenant farmers themselves, luith limited capital, may accept the above 
advice. They should have at least sufficient capital to be independent for 
twelve months. It is often best for the father to go out and pave the way for 
the little folks. 

Opportunities are still good in British Columbia, and jnst a little enterjrrise 
would give to many a family now poor and discouraged, comfort, hope, and 
a new life. 

Farmers or other persons with larger means will also find either tillage 
farming, or cattle or sheep farming in British Columbia an agreeable and 
profitable occupation. The natural pastures of the country are practically 
inexhaustible. They will feed several millions of cattle, and at present there 
are only about 25,000 in the country. The East Cascade region of British 
Columbia was made by nature to supply the cities on the Atlantic and 
Pacific seaboards with beef, butter, and w-ool. Why should an EngUsh farmer 
continue to pay rent, and remain under the control of a landlord as a leas€- 
holder or yearly tenant, when, with one year's rental, he can purchase a 
partially prepared farm with buildings on it, in the thoroughly British pro- 
vince of British Columbia ? 

Farms cannot be made in a day, and it is evident that the demand for 
farm produce, which the steady growth of the country, also the Canadian 
Pacific Railway and other undertakings, will create in British Columbia, 
cannot be supplied from existing farms. 

The province may be recommended generally to all properly qualified 
persons, with some means, and not disposed to croak, who may desire a per- 
fectly natural, genuine, and above-board life, in a land which has the virgin 
attractions of great space and freedom, a superb climate, varied resources, and 
a bright future. 

But for the scarcity of domestic servants, I could recommend British 
Columbia as a charming place of residence for families tuith fixed incomes^ 
They would find, with much less difficulty than amidst the crowded popu- 
lation of the Mother Coimtry, a suitable and pleasant home, with every 
facility for educating and starting their children in life. Persons living on 
the interest of their money can get from 8 to 12 per cent, on good security. 

The invalid will find that a visit to the province will brace him up. 

The tourist who can command sufficient means and leisure, might well 
exchange for a time the beaten tracks of European travel, for a tour of ex- 
ploration and adventure, where the world assumes a new and to some minds 
not unattractive phase. To the observant traveller nothing could be more 
instructive than to witness the beginnings of a noble country — the Pacific 
Ocean stronghold of the Empire. In the magnificent scenery of British Co- 
lumbia the lover of nature would see much that would remind him of Swit- 
zerland and the Rhine. The naturahst and botanist would fijid specimens 
not known in Europe. The geologist would witness a panorama to which 
the old world presents no parallel. The sportsman would find abundance 
of adventure, and game of all kinds. If he wants a new sporting sensation, 
let him try the reindeer on the Chilcotin foot-hills. For general tourists 
the novelty of roughing it in the bush, or traversing the fine open East 
Cascade country would possess singular charms. In the principal towns he 
can have as good a dinner as in Paris. 

What I wish to enforce is, that British Columbia is not a country with 



26 BRITISH COLUMBIA: 

only " one string to its bow;" it is not agricultural and grazing onl}^ ; it is 
also a mining countr}^, whose surface has hardly been scratched by miners, 
though about 3000 miners are profitably employed in mining ; it has fine 
forests, and teeming ocean, river, and lake fisheries, a coast line studded with 
harbours and coal-fields, besides a position in the world very favourable for 
commerce. The countrj^ is on the highwa^^ of civilized nations ; it stands to 
America on the Pacific Ocean, as Great Britain stands to Europe on the 
Atlantic. The 'Alta California ' newspaper, says, " That these new settle- 
" ments (British Columbia) are yet to become competitors for the trade of the 
" east, if not the commercial supremacy of the Pacific, it were useless to 
" deny." (See Canadian Pacific Piailway, p. 73.) 

The urgent requirements of the province at the present time are men and 
money — the large and the small capitalist — to employ the labourer who also 
must come with his strong hands, to bring out for conveyance to market the 
treasures that are hidden in the soil or merely adorning its surface. The 
j)opulation of the province at present is far too small to utilise their valuable 
domain. We have mines to be worked, railways to be made, roads to be 
opened, water power to be used, fish to be caught, grain, mutton, beef, 
and wool to be produced, and for all of them we have requirements and markets. 

How to reach British Columbia. 

A first-class passenger can go from, England to British Columbia in about 

3 weeks, if the connections meet at the proper times. A. third-class passenger 
will take 10 or 15 daj^s longer. The spring season is the best time to arrive. 

Passengers from England may go round Cape Horn by sailing-vessel, or 'by 
steamer, via Panama to San Francisco, and thence to British Columbia, but 
the ordinary route will probably be as follows : — 

(1.) By steamer across the Atlantic to Canada (Quebec in summer ; Port- 
land, Maine, U.S., in winter). 

(2.) Thence by rail across the Continent to San Francisco. 

(3.) San Francisco to Victoria, British Columbia, by steamer. 

The Atlantic passage takes 10 to 12 days ; the railway trip across the Con- 
linent about the same time, and the steamer from San Francisco to Victoria 

4 to 5 days. 

It is best to take "througW'' tickets to Victoria. Thu*d-class passengers 
should provide food for themselves for the railway trip across America, as 
provisions at the wayside stations are expensive, and the " through " ticket 
price does not include provisions except in the steamers. 

The steamer goes from San Francisco to Victoria only twice a month at 
present, and it is therefore desirable that, as far as possible, third-class emi- 
grants especially should leave England in parties, so as to reach San Francisco 
about the proper time, and save the tedium, and expense of remaining over. 

Tlie Agent- General in England, No. 4, Lime Street Square, London, E.C. 
will arrange this, if communicated with. 

While passing through Eastern Canada, and until Detroit is reached, 
emigrants from England for British Columbia -will apply, in case of need, to 
the Immigration Officers of the Dominion of Canada. 

Messrs. Allan, Brothers, and Co., James Street, Liverpool, give the following 
advice to emigrants : — 



INFORMATION FOR EMIGRANTS. 



27 



i 



" Take passage by tlie Allan Line of Eoyal Mail Steamers wliicli leave 
Liverpool every Tuesday and Thursday for Quebec in summer, and Portland 
in winter. In connection with this line through tickets are issued, either via 
Quebec or Portland to Victoria, the chief town of British Columbia. Trains leave 
Quebec and Portland twice a day, which connect at Detroit, Chicago, and Omaha, 
with through express trains over the Union and Central Pacific roads to San 
Francisco. From this point to Victoria, a distance of 753 English miles, the 
communication is by water, steamers leaving San Francisco twice a month. 

For rates of passage between Liverpool and Quebec, or 
Portland, refer to advertisement on the back page of this book. 

" From Quebec or Portland to San Francisco the rates are 
— 1st class rail, 26?. Qs. M. ; Emigrant class. 111. ; Children — 
Between 4 and 12 years, half price ; under 4 years, free. 

" From San Francisco to Victoria the rates are — 1st class, 
Ql. 3s. M. ; Emigrant class, ?>l. Is. 6cZ. Children— 6 to 12, half 
fare; from 3 to 6, quarter fare; under 3 years, free. 

" Baggage — 100 lbs. free for each full passenger." 

The " through." passage money to British Columbia is, at present (January 
1875), Vd. 2s. Qd. per adult passenger. 

The following are also agents of lines of sailing vessels to British 
Columbia : — 

Messrs. Anderson, Anderson, and Co., 1, Billiter Court, London, E.C. 

The Honourable Hudson's Bay Company, Lime Street, London, E.C. 

Messrs. Gr. H. Fletcher and Co., 9 and 12, Exchange Buildings, A, Liver- 
pool. 

Money (Coin) in British Columbia. 

cents. 



'he sovereign 


current at 4 dollars 85 


„ half-sovereign 


9 

5J -^ 


» m 


„ half-crown 


)» 


62i 


„ florin 


1 5> 


37^ 


5, shilling 


J> 


25 


„ sixpence 


5> 


12i 


„ threepenny-piece 


J5 


6 



British money is not much used in British Columbia. Business is done, 
and accounts kept, in dollars and cents, and the coins principally used are 
United States coins, as follows : — 



Gold. 
20 dollar piece 
10 
5 



SiLVEK. 

1 dollar piece 



.2 „ Dime (called a "bit "). 

The United States coins are more uniform in value in British Columbia 
than British coins, as the United States have a mint in California (which is 
close to the province). 

Money (Paper) ix British Columbia. 

The paper money of the bank of British Columbia, and of the bank of 
British Xorth America, passes freely in the province in notes from 1 to 50 
dollars. These notes are payable in gold. 



28 BEITISH COLUMBIA: 

United States paper money is not used in the province. If the emigrant 
should see any United States paper money he must remember that it varies 
in price, not being payable in gold. 

CouKSE OF Exchange on England. 

Bills at sight 5 dollars 15 cents per £1. 

„ 30 days' sight 5 dollars 10 cents per £1. 
» GO „ 5 „ 

On New York. 
4 to 5 per cent, premium. 

On San Feanciscq. 
1 per cent, premium. 

How to send Money to British Columbia. 

The emigrant is not recommended to take British coin to British Columbia. 
He should pay that portion of his money not wanted on the passage to the 
Post Office in Great Britain, and get a money order for it payable in Victoria, 
or he may pay his money either to the Bank of British Columbia, East India 
Avenue, Leadenhall Street, London, E.G. (the bankers for the Government 
of British Columbia), or to the Bank of British North America, Bishopsgate 
Street Within, London, E.G., and get from the bank, in exchange for his 
money, an order payable on demand from its Branch Bank in Victoria, British 
Columbia, for the equivalent of his money in dollars and cents. 

The equivalents at present given for money thus deposited are about as 
follows :— Gold 

£ Dollars, Cents. 

5 paid in England would realise 24 • 25 in Victoria. 

10 „ „ „ 48-50 

20 „ „ „ 97-00 

50 „ „ „ 242-50 

100 „ „ „ 485-00 

The emigrant, on 'paying his money to the Banh, must sign his name on a 
separate piece of paper, and ash the Bank to send the signature to their 
Branch Banh in Victoria, so that the person who applies for the money in 
Victoria may he known to he the proper person. If this is neglected, the 
emigrant may not he ahle to get his money in Victoria readily. 

The above banks have agents in England, Scotland, and Ireland. The 
Bank of British North America has its own branches in the Dominion of 
Canada, New York, and San Francisco. The Bank of Montreal is the agent 
of the Bank of British Columbia throughout Canada and New York, and the 
Bank of British Columbia has its own branches in San Francisco, and in Port- 
land (Oregon). Both banks have correspondents in Mexico, Japan, China, 
Australia, and New Zealand. 

The American Express and Banking House of Wells, Fargo, and Co., which 
has branches in many parts of the United States, has a branch in Victoria, 
British Columbia. 



INFOKMATION FOR EMIGEANTS. 29 



Words of Advice after Arrival. 

Emigrants are recommended not to linger about the towns at whicli they 
may arrive, but to proceed with as little delay as possible, either to their 
friends, if they have any in the province, or to the localities where they are 
likely to meet with employment. To ascertain where their services are most 
in demand, they should consult the Government Immigration Agent at the 
port of arrival, who will assist them with information and advice that can be 
relied on. They should be cautious in trusting strangers, and particularly 
should avoid the bar-room idler, and the croaker in the street, whose note in 
every colony always is that " times are bad — no work for men — country not 
worth a cent." These idlers and croakers, together with office-seekers, are 
nuisances everywhere — in Australia, New Zealand, and also in young 
American states. 

If seeking employment, immigrants should at once accept any fair offer of 
work, although the wages may be less than they anticipated. They should 
remember that until they get into the ways of the country they are of much 
less use to their employers than they will be afterwards. 

If the emigrant wishes to farm, he should not invest all his capital in land, 
but reserve sufficient to stock and work it. Let him be careful of his cash 
capital, and not put it into investments hastily. 

Small capitalists are recommended not to buy land before they have become 
acquainted wdth its character and the kind of labour required in a new 
country; and further, if possible, to purchase or rent a farm with some im- 
provements on it, rather than to go upon untouched land. This last advice 
more particularly refers to emigrants from Europe, whose jDrevious training . 
necessarily has not so well adapted them to the settlement of wild lands as 
persons brought up in America. Partially-cleared farms, with buildings 
erected on them, may be bought in some districts of British Columbia on easy 
terms of payment, owing to the disposition pioneers have to sell old settle- 
ments, and take up more extensive new ones. The price of such farms 
depends, as already said, much on their situation, ranging probably from 14 to 
35 dollars {21. 16s. to 11. English) per acre, within from 5 to 50 miles of 
Victoria. 

It is better for a small capitalist, possessing from 100?. to 1000?., to place 
Ms money, on first arrival, in the savings or other hanks allowing interest ; to 
take lodgings, and to work for wages for a year or more, in order to gain a 
knowledge of colonial life and modes of management ; or he may rent a piece 
of land in or near the locality in which he expects to settle, raise a crop, and 
look round quietly for a suitable place for a home. 

By pursuing the plan suggested the emigrant, at the end of a few years, will 
probably be far in advance of him who, on his arrival " went at it with a 
rush," as. beginners are apt to do. 



Special Advice to Young British Columbian Farmers. 

Get a wife. 

Keep no spirits in the house. 

Laugh at croakers. 

Hold on to your cash capital. 



30 BEITISH COLUMBIA: 

Don't buy poor stock — a runt is dear at any price. 

Feed yoar laud, and it will feed you. 

Do not buy one extra plough or harrow. 

Buy as little as possible secondhand. 

Don't improve — except slowly. 

Don't employ a lot of hands at first, building, fencing, draining, &c. 

Only good farming pays. 

Don't hunger for a " big " farm. 

Give up old-country notions. 

Don't think you are very much wiser than your neighbours. 

Make your house pretty with shrubs and flowers. 

Go to church. 

Work a little — rest a little, but be always about your place. 



Aliens. 

Aliens may hold and transmit land as fully as British subjects — may be 
naturalised after three years' residence — alien women are naturalised by 
marriage. We invite emigrants from all nations. 

Public Schools 

are in the hands of the people — free to all, without distinction of race or creed 
strictly non-sectarian — highest morality inculcated — no religious dogmas or 
creeds taught — uniform text-books — Public School Fund voted every year 
by the Provincial Chamber — General Board of Education for the whole 
Province — a Superintendent of Education, who visits and inspects — School 
Districts wherever population is sufficient — the people choose eveiy year 
from among themselves 3 School Trustees to manage schools — Trustees get 
money from " Public School Fund," on application endorsed by Superintendent 
of Education — Trustees may make by laws (approved by Superintendent) 
requiring children to attend school — Teachers (3 grades) paid, from 40 to 100 
dollars (81. to 20Z. English) a month — appointed or removed by Trustees 
— must have certificates of qualification from the Board — Board fixes salaries. 

The settler will well know how to estimate the capabilities of this school 
system. The St. John's (Xew Brunswick) ' Telegraph ' newspaper says — 
*' Let us take care that the young sister province on the Pacific does not lead 
"New Brunswick in education." 

There are very good church schools and private schools, for both sexes, in 
several of the larger towns. An education befitting the children of gentlemen 
can be obtained for both boys and girls at Victoria and New Westminster on 
reasonable terms. 

The following are the terms of a Collegiate School established on the plan 
of the Grammar Schools in England, viz. : — 

4 dollars (16s. English) per month. 
French, 1 dollar (4s. English) per month. 

Boarders, from 30 to 40 dollars {61. to 8?. English) per month, 
according to age. 
In other good schools the prices are somewhat less. 



INFOEMATION FOE EMIGEAKTS. 



31 



Public Boarding Schools. 

To meet tlie wants of some districts of the province where the population 
is at present too scattered to allow of sufficient schools being provided for 
the education of the children of settlers, the Government have established a 
system of Public Boarding Schools under the management and control of 
Trustees. 

Churches. 

No State Church — no tithes, but religious wants not neglected — Sundaj' 
well kept — Eoman Catholic, Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Congrega- 
tional, and Hebrew communities have churches and clergymen in the larger 
towns — churches built also in some small towns and country districts — other 
places are visited by ministers. 

As soon as an infant settlement is formed, the inevitable minister appears, 
generally before even the newspaper correspondent. One of the settlers in a 
settlement of about 20 families on the "North arm," near the mouth of 
Fraser River, writes — " We have two churches already, and a third is 
" talked of." 

Eeligious societies may take a conveyance of land for certain specified 
purposes by appointing trustees and registering the title deeds. 

Newspapers. 

Numerous and well conducted — receive constantly news by telegraph — the 
wants and opinions of settlers in remote districts are made known through the- 
press to their fellow settlers and to the Government. 

Post-Office. 

Rates of Postage. 



England 

Throughout the Province and Dominion 

United States 

Germany .- . . . . 

France 

Australia 

New Zealand 

China 



Letters 
per half oz. 



Papers each. 



Book Post, 
Lowest Eate. 



6 cents 

3 ,, 

6 ,, 

23 ,, 

34 ,, 

16 ,, 

16 ,, 

16 ,. 



2 cents 
1 



I 3 cents per 4 oz. 
I 1 cent per 1 oz. 

1 

6 cents per 2 oz.. 

2 cents per 1 oz,. 

2 ,, 

2 



Money Orders •with Canada and England. 

Local Post-Offices. 

Ashcroft. Comox. 

Barkerville. Cowichan. 

Burrard Inlet. Chi Hi whack 

Cache Creek. Dunkeld. 

Cassiar. Duck and Pringle's. 

Chemanis. Esquimalt. 

Clinton. - Hope. 



4'Z BEITISH COLUMBIA: 

Local Post-Offices — continued. 

Kamloops. Omineca. 

Kootenay. 150 Mile House. 

Lake La Haclie. Pavilion. 

Langley. Quesnel. 

Lillooet. Skena. 

Lytton. Soda Creek. 

Maple Bay. Sooke. 

Nanaimo. Spence's Bridge. 

New Westminster. Sumass. 

Nicola Lake. _ Van Winkle. 

Okanagan. Victoria. 

Okanagan Mission. Yale. 

Administration of Justice. 

This lias always been wholesome. There is very little " rowdyism '' in 
British Columbia. Life, limb, and property are secured by just laws well 
carried out. The courts do not ask whether accused parties are Indians or 
white men. The San Francisco (California) ' Bulletin ' said, lately — " It is 
" well that our citizens should note that our neighbours in British Columbia 
" do not deal so leniently with those who take life as we on this side of the 
" border line." 

Local Self-Government. 

The people of a locality with over 30 male residents may be formed into a 
" municipality," and elect from among themselves Councillors and a Warden 
to manage all local affairs. 

Provincial Self-Government. 

The old system of government has been quite done away with. There is now 
one Legislative Chamber only — elected for four years by the voters — three, or 
not more than six of its members form the " responsible advisers" or " ministry " 
of the Lieutenant-Governor — hold office while they have the confidence of a 
majority of the chamber — municipal councils are steppingstones to Legislative 
Assembly — no social obstacles whatsoever in any man's way — nobody asks 
where a settler comes from, nor whose son he is. Among measures passed 
lately were the Qualification of Voters Bill, which invites every hoiid fide 
resident British subject to take an active part in the great work of self-govern- 
ment ; the School Bill, which places a free education within reach of every 
child in the land ; the Municipal Bill, which enables every settlement to 
manage its own local affairs, and thus educate the people in the art of self- 
government ; the Inheritance Bill, which divides equally amongst the children 
or nearest of kin the property of persons dying intestate ; the Eoad Tolls 
Piepeal Bill, which throws open, free as the high seas to all comers, the main 
trunk road of the Province. 

The political constitution of the province, as part of the great Dominion of 
Canada, is impressed with the stability of the British system of Government, 
combined with the freedom, elasticity, and progressive energy of Eepublican 
institutions. 



INFOKMATION FOE EMIGEANTS. 33 

The people of the Province may amend or alter their political constitution 
in any way not inconsistent with the general constitution of the Dominion of 
Canada. 

Exports. 

The gold shipped from British Columbia by banks, and carried out of the 
country by miners, has not been less in value than 4j millions sterling during 
the 10 years from 1862. Other exports than gold, namely, lumber (sawn 
wood), coal, furs, fish, fish-oil, wool, cranberries, are yearly increasing in 
quantity and value. 

The exports of coal from the Il^anaimo coal mine, during the above ten 
years, has been 330,395 tons. 

Several new coal mines are about to be opened and worked. (See Coal 
Mining, page 78.) 

The following represents the exports of the Province of British Columbia 
for the year ending 30th June, 1874 : — 

Dols. 

Products of the mine — gold dust and bars 1,072,422 

Coal, etc 278,213 

The fisheries 114,118 . 

The forest (lumber, etc.) 260,116 

Animals and produce — wool, fnrs, etc 330,625 

Agricultural products 5,296 

Manufactures 443 



Total for the year .. .. 2,061,233 

The gold export, exclusive of that shipped in private 
hands, amounts for the three months ending Sep- 
tember 30th, to 407,734 

For the corresponding three months of 1873 348,161 

Balance in favour of three months of 1874 59,573 

The gold export for the month of September of the 

present year amounts to 190,000 

This is the largest amount shipped in one month for 'several years past, 
which is a gratifying fact. It must be remembered too that this is exclusive 
of bullion in private hands. 

Manufactories. 

New WESTMI^-STEE. 

3 Saw mills — can cut 183,000 feet of lumber per day. 
1 Grist mill — can grind 30 barrels per day. 

1 Distillery — distils 300 to 400 gallons per month. 
Brick works. 

Hope, Yale, and Lytto>'. 

2 Saw mills — can cut 7000 feet of lumber per day, 

5 Flour mills — 2 can grind 23 barrels, the others 10 barrels per day each. 

D 



34 BKITISH COLUMBIA: 

LiLLOOET AND ClINTOX. 

1 Saw and Flour mill (combined) — can grind 60 barrels of flonr per day, and 
cut 12,000 feet of lumber. 

1 Flour mill on Dog Creek — can grind 2000 pounds of wheat per day. 
1 Saw mill at Lillooet — can cut 5000 feet of lumber per day. 
1 Saw mill at Clinton— can cut 2000 feet of lumber per day. 
1 Flour mill at Lillooet — can o-rind 120 sacks in twelve bours. 



KOOTENAY AND COLUMBIA, 



1 Saw mill, water-power. 
1 Bed Eock Flume. 



Cariboo. 



1 Steam Saw mill, on William's Creek, 20-borse power — can cut 20,000 
feet of lumber per day. 

1 Steam Saw mill, on Ditton Lightning Creek — can cut 20,000 feet of 
lumber per day. 

1 Quartz Mill, on AVilliam's Creek, 3-horse power, 4 stamps of 450 lbs. 
each — can crush 4 tons a day, 

1 Flour mill, 20-horse power — can grind 50 barrels of flour per day. 

1 Flour mill, Soda Creek, water-power — can grind 40 barrels of flour per 
day. 

1 Saw mill, Quesnel, water power — can cut 2500 feet of lumber per day. 



1 Saw mill. 
1 Saw mill. 

1 Iron Foundry. 

2 Sash Factories. 
Gas Works. 

4 Breweries. 
2 Distilleries. 
1 Soap Factory. 



Nanaimo. 
cowichan. 
Victoria. 



2 Tanneries. 
Boot and Shoe Factory. 
Brick Works. 

1 Ship Yard. 

2 Lumber Yards. 
2 Wago'on-makers. 



Trade. 



The estimated value of exports and imports for 1870 was as follows : — 
Exports, including gold, 1,848,803 dollars ; imports, 1,605,809 ; balance of 
trade in our favour, 242,994 dollars. The exports, besides gold, were supplied 
by twenty-one articles of home produce. Here are the germs of productive 
manufactures, lucrative trades and of an active commerce. 

The Toronto 'Monetary Times' says that the imports and exports of 
" British Columbia have increased steadily since the confederation of the 
" Province with theDominion, the former aggregating for the three years 1872, 
" 1873, and 1874 the sum of 5,891,129 dollars-, and the latter, for the same 
" period, 6,825,148 dollars. In the imports the necessaries^of life — flour, wheat 
" and meat — form quite a, large part, though to'Bacco, wines, and other luxuries 



INFOEMATION FOE EMIGKANTS. 35 

■*' are freely imported. Gold is the chief export, and coal comes next. The 
'" present state of trade will be entirely changed as the country grows older, for 
" many parts of it are eminently suited for agriculture and grazing. Eegular 
''' exchanges now take place between British Columbia and Honolulu, China, 
" Chili, Peru, and other countries with which we, in the eastern part of Canada 
" seldom or never come into contact. This being the case when the population 
" and wants of Columbia are so small, it is not too much to believe that a con- 
" nection by rail with old Canada would render necessary lines of steamships 
" from China and Japan, which would compete with those now plying from 
*' San Francisco." 

Imports. 

The total value of imports into British Columbia during the year ending 
30th June, 18.73, was 2,191,011 dollars— 507,364 dollars being free goods. The 
total amount of duty collected was 302,147 dollars 65 cents. The imports 
during the year ending 30th June, 1874, amounted to 2,085,560_^dollars — 
.266,631 dollars being free goods. 

Tonnage for 1871. 

The vessels— sea going — that entered the ports of British Columbia for th-e 
year 1871, numbered 292, with a tonnage of 131,696. Cleared, 285, with a 
tonnage of 129,864. 

Hospitals. 

There are three Public Hospitals in the Province, supported by private 
■contributions with Government aid. One at Victoria, another at New West- 
minster, the third in Cariboo, and a Lunatic Asylum at Victoria. 

In addition to these, there is the Naval Hospital at Esquimalt for the 
accommodation of H.M.'s fleet ; and, in Victoria, a private hospital supported 
by the French Benevolent Society. 

Telegraph Lines. 

British Columbia is connected with England by telegraphic wires. Telegraph 
lines extend from Swinomish, in Washington Territory (United States), to 
Barkerville, at the extremity of the Cariboo Koad. There is, besides, a branch 
from Matsqui to Burrard Inlet via New Westminster, in addition to a tele- 
graphic right of way over the line belonging to the Western Union Telegraph 
Company, from Swinomish to Victoria, which comprises two submarine cables. 
This line of telegraph is 569 miles long, in addition to the submarine portion, 
which is a mile and a quarter in length ; it originally cost 170,000 dollars. 
Besides this line, there is that from the mouth of the Quesnel to the Babine, 
but the line has not been kept up, and is abandoned. 

The Government of the Dominion are making a telegraph line across the 
continent. Work on it has already been begun within the Province. 

Public Works. 

The Canadian Pacific Eailway (see page 73) to be begun this year ; also a 
first-class Graving Dock at Esquimalt ; additional light-houses ; improvement 
of the Eiver Fraser ; Marine Hospital ; Penitentiary ; Post-office and Custom 



36 BKITISH COLUMBIA. 

Houses. Among existing public buildings and property are fixed light-bouses 
on Eace Eock and Fisgard, also at Cape Beale, a floating light at the 
mouth of the Eraser Eiver, postal-service steamer, harbour dredge, Mint, 
Court-houses and jails, Lunatic Asylum, Governors' residences. Legislative 
and Departmental bmldings, &-c. 

Harbours. 

On Vancouver Island : Victoria, Esquimalt, Xanaimo, Barclay Sound. 
On the mainland: Burrard Inlet, Howe Sound, Bute Inlet, MillbanJk Sound. 
Eiver Skena, Eiver Xasse. These harbours, being open all the year round, and, 
generally speaking, easy of access, sheltered and capacious, give a distinctive 
value to the province, which the course of events on the North American 
continent will every year make more apparent. 




Part of Government-street, Victoria. From a photograph. 

Vancouver Island. 

Area, 12,000 square miles ; length, 300 miles ; average breadth, 30 to 50 
miles. Surface very mountainous and woody — flattens at both ends, and for 
part of its eastern side — most mountainous region in the interior — highest 
mountains (6000 feet) towards north of island — no "back-bone range," such as 
some describers say exists — width of arable valleys, from one to six miles — • 
whole country fall of lakes, streams, and waterfalls — (the water-power is 
generally some distance inland from the coast) — shores boldly picturesque — 
promontories, cliffs, harbours, coves, and beaches. 

West coast, cut up by arms and inlets, margined by rugged mountains, 
bearing fir, hemlock, and cedar — here and there shore is skirted by lower 
wooded hills, among which, and along streams, small patches of open or wooded 
fiat land are found. 

Xo inlets on north and east coasts, but in other respects the above descrip- 
tion applies also to them — near Johnstone's Straits, shore-line is even more 
continuously mountainous and abrupt than on west coast. Farther down 
east coast, and also in south-eastern part of island, the coast is lower, and the 
proportion of flat or gently undulating land, good for farming, increases, some 
of which is open or thinly timbered. 

Prevailing timber — fir, near the coast — hemlock, inland — great cedars on 
the mountains — shrubs, berries, and flowers everywhere — grasses, sweet 
grass, reed meadow, bent spear — white clover, wild timothy, wild oats, broad- 
leaved rush, cowslip, &c. 

Fern in the open lands, troublesome to farmers. 

Resident Population. 

Victoria and neighbourhood 5360 

Cowichan district 350 

Nanaimo and neighbourhood 950 

Comox 250 

Indians, say 3000 



9910 

There are three Farmers' Societies in the island. 

Her Majesty's Fleet at Esquimalt adds an average of about 500 to the 



38 VANCOUVER ISLAND. 

population of the Victoria district, "whicli is also considerably increased, 
temporarily, by visitors at all seasons of the year, and by crews of vessels. A 
fine Xaval Graving Dock is being built at Esquimalt. 

Soils. 

These, being everything to the farming immigrant, will first be 
mentioned. 

Derivation of Vancouver Island Soils. 

Four chief sources — disintegration of underlying rocks — deposit of the 
sands, gravels, and clays of the great Northern Drift — alluvial deposits — 
decay of vegetable matter on the surface. 

Distribution of Soils. 

The nature of the underlying rocks has produced in various parts of the- 
south of the island (which the immigrant first sees) gravelly soil, with a thin 
coating of vegetable mould. 

Further north, along the eastern shore, where the rocks alter in character, 
rich loams are found, due to the decomposition of the limestone rocks in their 
neighbourhood. Good specimens in Cowichan valley and at Comox. These 
soils are always ready for cultivation. 

The JSTorthern Drift sands, gravels, and clays, are spread out over the whole 
undulating surface of the east coast. The sandy gravels form the soil 
generally, from which the forests spring, while the clay will be found chiefly 
in the open undulating grounds as a retentive subsoil with a thick topsoil 
of vegetable mould. This latter clay-vegetable soil is a most valuable soil 
— colour, rich brownish-black. It fills up hollows and swamj^y bottoms, and 
forms the sides of gentle slopes. In some localities the clay forms the only 
soil. 

The above clay- vegetable soil is mixed with alluvium in some localities,, 
namely, deltas of rivers, near inlets and in valleys. 

The alluvial deposits are not extensive, the streams being short water- 
courses. The brown earth, or " Humus," resulting from the decay of vege- 
table matter, is abundant, and mixes with the other soils in various propor- 
tions in different localities. 

Value of these Soils. 

The gravelly soil, found as above stated in various parts of the south of the 
island, is poor, from its inability to retain moisture. The rains are drained ofif 
into lagoons, and the sun dries up the surface. This soil produces large timber 
and coarse grass. 

Wheat could no doubt be cultivated upon nearly all the other soils with 
proper culture. 

The clay-vegetable soil, above mentioned, is very valuable, particularly 
where it has been mixed with alluvium. With subsoil drainage this soil 
would carry the heaviest possible crops of wheat and other cereals. 

The clay, when found by itself, would, like all heavy land, require special 
treatment. 

The sandy and gravelly loams are eligible forvbarley, oats, rye, buckwheat., 
beans, peas, root and leaf crops, &c., &c. 



VANCOUVER ISLAND. 39 

The deep loamy soils everywhere are especially eligible for fruit culture. 
The alluvial deposits in the vallej^s are in many places very valuable. Mixed 
with the decayed, and the decaying, vegetable matter brought down by the 
numerous streams from watersheds, they form a rich black soil, many feet 
thick. 

The brown earth, or " Humus," forms soils of great value, according to the 
materials with which it mixes. Though light and parous, many soils, so 
formed in the valleys and plains of the eastern coast, are well constituted for 
absorbing and retaining moisture as well as heat. The brown earth appears 
to be rich, when resting, with a depth of 2 to 3 feet, on a gravelly, or even, 
sandy, subsoil, if we may judge from the successive crops of potatoes which 
the Indians have raised from such soil. 

Hilly, partly wooded, grazing tracts are interspersed among the prairies 
and benches. Often, near arable farms, rocky hills rise 1000, 2000, and even 
3000 feet — surface craggy — patches of thin soil with grass. Sheep and cattle 
like these hills in summer. 

Water. 

Kunning streams numerous ; springs excellent. In places, however, where 
the clay forms the top-soil, the water runs off, and unless you bore through 
the clay the water must be looked for at some little distance, where the clay 
is overlaid by a porous material. Many springs resemble the Bath waters, 
but are not unpleasant to the taste. In one place there are " brine " springs. 

Estimated Quantity of Farming Land. 

Extract, condensed from ' British Colonist,' Yictoria, August 7th, 1872. 

" Near Yictoria. — Say 100,000 acres, all occupied or owned. Some farms 
" can be bought or let ; terms higher than in places farther from the capital. 

" Saanich peninsula. — 37 square miles ; 64,000 acres. 200 settlers, with 
" farms from 50 to 1500 acres each. 

" Sooke. — Out of five square miles, 3750 acres fairly good, open land ; re- 
" mainder tolerably level wood-land. 

" Cowichan. — Portions surveyed (including Shawnigan, Quamichan, So- 
" menos, Comiaken) 100,000 acres, of which half considered superior. 

" Salt Spring Island — area, 90 square miles ; 5750 acres, good. 80 settlers. 

"iSTanaimo district (Mountain, Cranberry, and Cedar districts). 45,000 
" acres ; a fair proportion superior, some light and sandy. ^ 

" Comox. — 50,000 acres ; none better in the world. 

" The above gives sufficient area for 30,000 country people, at least, and it 
" is known that towards Alberni and in other directions, for instance, in tho 
*' long narrow valley of Salmon River, there is land available for settlement." 

Much of the above land is covered with fine large timber. Many of the 
best farm-locations near existing roads — at least the best to the eye — may be 
expected to be already taken up or occupied ; but there certainly is room yet 
for numerous settlers. This will be more clearly seen as communicationa are 
improved. It is said that Victoria buys a quantity of beef every year from 
the opposite American territory, and that butter could lately be imported from 
Montreal at a profit. The facilities for dairy farming are excellent in British 
Columbia. The truth is that many farms are occupied by non-practical 



40 VANCOUVER ISLAND. 

farmers, who are merely waiting to sell their farms. The climate, scenery, 
and abundance of game and fish have had the effect of making this class of 
land-holder rather numerous. They will give place in time to the right class — 
as pictured by Franklin : — 

" Farmer at the plough, 

Wife milking cow. 

Daughters spinning yarn. 

Boys thrashing in the barn, 

All happy as a charm." 
Land here must continue to rise in value, and the practical farmer is sure of 
a good yield from his farm, and a market for what he produces. The settlers 
are hospitable, and will give anyone a warm welcome, particularly if he is 
disposed to help himself. 

Interior of the Island. 

I do not think there is very much farming land in the interior of the island 
anywhere in mass, though detached pieces near lakes and in valleys would, 
no doubt, make a considerable area, if all were put together. The mountains 
in the interior cross and re-cross, interlaced by valleys, generally wooded. 
Some of these valleys are of good size, and the soil is fertile. Many of 
the larger lakes have steep sides ; the streams are rapid, and often have 
rocky banks. Nearly all the smaller lakes and rivers, however, have a good 
deal of low land near them, swampy or liable to overflow, but capable of being 
brought into cultivation. Jn hollows among the hills also are marshy tracts, 
easily drained, which, if there is a subsoil, will make fine farms. 

Mode of clearing Land. 

The immigrant is often attracted by a fern-covered prairie, or by " brush " 
land, covered only with alders, willows, &c. 

The fern is troublesome, and is only entirely removed by successive crop- 
ping. It is cut year after year in early summer, and the land then ploughed 
and cross ploughed. Some use tiles for wet fern lands. In reclaiming " brush " 
land, one way is to make an open ditch, three feet wide, and as deep as the 
drainage will admit. Next summer the vegetable matter on the surface will 
burn, which kills the roots, and frequently lays the brush as though it had 
been "slashed;" burn again the following summer, and with a little labour 
the land will be ready for winter wheat. Another way which is adopted often 
on bottom land, timbered with maple, ash, and only a few firs, is to " slash " 
(cut small growth) all but the large growth, felling all one way as much as 
possible. The best time to do this is through the months of June or July, 
when the sap is at its highest. After the trees have lain one or two months 
fire is set to them in different places. When there is much small brush, it 
should be piled upon the larger growth. Care must be taken before fire is set 
that there is no brush or other inflammable substance near the dwelling or out- 
buildings. Some farmers cut the vine-maple off about six feet from the ground ; 
take a yoke of cattle, " hitch on" to the top of these stubs, and " snake" them 
out. The soil being loose and the main roots near the top of the ground, it is 
not difficult to cut with an axe any root that may hold fast. I have seen 
patches of excellent wheat, the ground for which^had never been ploughed up. 
The farmer stated that after " snaking " out the roots and sowinsf the wheat 



VANCOUVER ISLAND. 



41 



he took a yoke of cattle and dragged a large brush, made of branches, over the 
ground, to smooth it down and cover the wheat. The crop on one of the 
patches (a few acres) was a volunteer crop (second year without sowing), and 
promised to be g®od. 

The large trees on a heavily wooded farm are usually felled in the following 
way : — Take a long shanked auger, and in a standing tree bore two holes, one 
above the other, at an angle, so that they will meet some distance inside. 
Introduce lighted pitch faggots into the upper hole. The iiame draws air 
from the lower hole, and acts like a blow pipe. The inside of the tree beneath 
the sap bui-ns quickly, and in a short time a huge furnace roars, which can 
often be heard ^at a considerable distance. The sappy outside does not burn, 
and thus a mere shell of the tree is left. This shell is chopped through on the 
side of the tree on which it is desired it should fall, and the tree comes down 
with a crash. 

The usual price for "slashing" is from ten to twelve dollars (40s. to 48s. 
English) per acre, cutting all down (except the large growth) and piling it up 
ready for burning. 

The best and cheapest team a farmer can have is a good yoke of cattle. 
They can make their own living, and it costs but little to rig them for work. 
They are the best adapted for the kind of work usually done on a new farm. 

Course of Cropping. 

After breaking up new land, perhaps a first crop of peas or oats is put in, 
or it is left as a summer fallow until the early part of October, when wheat is 
put into the ground. The crops commonly raised are — wheat, barle}^, oats, 
and peas. The green crops are — turnips (swedes), mangel-wurzel, vetches, 
potatoes, and all kinds of vegetables ; cabbages and pumpkins attaining a 
very great size. Of the cereals, wheat does best ; of the leguminous plants, 
peas are the mosL profitable. 

Nowhere does the potato flourish more, or have a better flavour ; it is 
grown in great quantities by the natives. 

The rotation of crops in virgin soil is, wheat after fallow, then a crop 
of peas ; wheat again, or oats ; and then a fallow is made for turnips ; and by 
this time the land will be pretty clean. After turuips, a crop of barley or 
oats (spring sown) is raised and followed by potatoes, the land being well 
manured, and thus mended. After this, farming operations are conducted on 
the same rotation four-course system as in Great Britain. 

The above rotation, however, may be exchanged for whatever expediency 
dictates. 

The following are the usual quantities of seed sown per acre : — of wheat, 
li bushels ; barley, 2i bushels ; oats, 2i to 3 bushels ; peas, 2 to 2^ bushels, 
vetches, 2h bushels. The sowing times for oats, barley, peas, and tares are 
from middle of March to end of April, These crops are harvested 1st of 
August to end of September. Potatoes are planted in March and April, 
and are gathered early part of November. Turnips sown between 1st 
June and middle of July, and are gathered with the potatoes. Autumn 
cultivation not yet common. Clovers, lucerne, and trefoil are good fodder 
plants. Sown in October, they give bulky spring crops. Alsyke clover the 
best perennial ; crimson clover should be cut in flower. Lucerne likes light 
sandy soil, with calcareous subsoil — S years' successive crops. Trefoil, dry, 



42 



VANCOUVEK ISLAND. 



elevated pastures, deep roots, remains green long ; cattle like it. Other plants, 
sainfoin, tares, rye-grass, fescue grasses, do well sown in autumn. 

Pkoduction on Good Faems in South-Easteen and Eastern Disteiots of 
Vancouvee Island in 1874. 
Wheat from 30 to 35 bushels per acre. 
Barley „ 40 „ 45 
Oats „ 50 „ CO 
Pease „ 40 „ 45 „ „ 

Potatoes „ 150 „ 200 „ „ 

Turnips „ 20 „ 25 tons ,, 

Timothy hay about 2 „ ,, 

Hops (equal to the best Kentish), 1000 to 1700 lbs. per acre. 

Butter, per cow, after feeding calf, about 150 lbs. per annum. 

Apples, pears, plums, cherries, white and red raspberries, red, white, and 
black currants, and most kinds of fruit thrive remarkably well. Apples have 
measured 13 inches in circumference, and weighed 19 ounces, and been well 
flavoured and good for cooking or eating. Pears, many of them 11 inches in 
circumference, juicy, and fine flavour. 

Common winter cabbage have grown 3 to 4 feet in circumference. Eed 
cabbage and cauliflower equally large and sound. 

Carrots, parsnips, onions large. 

Tomatoes equal to the best English. 

Cattle, sheep, horses, pigs, and poultry do well ; sheep (South Down), 
mutton choice, fleeces light, wool good ; pigs easily reared ; wolves and 
panthers (not dangerous to man) sometimes kill pigs and sheep. 

The average production, of course, is not likely to be so good as the above 
over a number of years, even if an intelligent system of farming should be 
the rule ; but the emigrant may see from the above the capabilities of the soil. 

In England it is believed that the average production is — wheat, 28 to 
30 bushels ; barley, 35 to 40 bushels ; potatoes, about 160 bushels, or 4 tons. 

The following Table will show to the reader the — 

Estimated Aveeage Yield, per Statute Acee, of the Peincipal Coen 
Ceops, and of Potatoes in various Beitish Colonies. 



COLONI 



New South Wales . . . . 

Victoria < 

South Australia . . < 

Tasmania < 

New Zealand . . . . ■< 

Natal 

Cape of Good Hope 



Years 

(ended 31st 

March in some 

Colonies). 


W^heat. 


Barley. 


Oats. 


I^Iaize. 


Potatoes. 


1869-70 


Bushels. 
16-90 


Bushels. 
16-24 


Bushels. 
23-16 


Bushels. 
38-12 


Tons. 
3-16 


1869-70 
1870-71 


19-75 
10-10 


24-55 
12-26 


25-98 
14-98 


20-50 
19-75 


3-10 

3-27 


1869-70 
1870-71 


5-74 
11-51 


8-99 
14-74 


14-82 
14-28 


•• 


3-60 
2-83 


1869-70 

1870-71 


16-10 
15-63 


23-09 
21-23 


25-71 
22-34 


•• 


3-63 
3-67 


1869-70 
1870-71 


27-27 
23-56 


31-14 
25-26 


33-47 
31-21 




5-44 
5-14 


1869 


12-27 


C The pro 
I partly 


luce of thes< 
cut green f 


3 crops is \ 
or fodder, j 


Bushels. 
131-3 


1865 


6-87 


8-9^ 


4-35 


6-48 


•• 



TAXCOr-N'EE ISLAXD. 



4a 



I may also invite attention to tlie — 
Estimated Average Yield, per Statute Acee, of the Peixcipal Coen 
Cbops, and of Potatoes, in liiPESiAL Bushels, in various Foreign 

COUNTEIES. 



Date Wheat 
Cor>~rEiE<. I of and Barley. 

Ptetums. Spelt. ; 



Oats. 



Eve. 



Beans 
and 
Peas. 



Maize. Potatoe; 



Sweden . . 
Xorway . . 
Prussia . . 
Wurtemburg 
Holland .. 
Belgium , . 
France 
Portugal . . 
Spain , . . . 
Austria . . 
Greece 
United States 



Bushels. 


Bushels. 


Bushe 


1S69 






1865 


22-3 


28-4 


1867 


17-1 


25-1 


1870 


40-0 


23-6 


1869 


25-7 


41-7 


1866 


22-8 


34-9 


1869 


17-1 


20-9 


1865 


8-9 


11-1 


185t 


23-3 


24-3 


1870 


14-3 


16-1 


1867 


13-2 


18-8 


1869 


13-2 


27-1 



Bushels.: Bushels. I 
35-8 



26-2 
39-3 
41-2 
25-6 
18-6 

18-1 
19-0 
29-6 



16-7 
20-1 
20-6 
24-6 
15*5 
6-7 
8-4 
14-6 



Bushels. Bushels 
10-4 

19 -6 

17-5 

14-1 

24-4 

23-2 

13-8 



Bushels 
91-2 



162-7 
151-1 



108-5 

I 106-3 



As regards the United States, 17 bushels of ^vheat per acre may be assumed 
as the wheat average of Minnesota ; Ohio, 9*96 ; Illinois from year to year not 
more than 8 bushels. Four States only, by the census of 1850, reached an 
average of 15 bushels per acre. Oats average, say 19 to 30 bushels. Potatoes 
75 to 120 bushels per acre. 

The following Articles of Produce and Stock were Exhibited at the 
Provixcial Farming Show, Yictoria, 1874, also at the Saanich Show 
(close to Yictoria), and at the Cowichan, Chemanis, and Salt Spring 
Show, held at Maple Bay (up the east coast, 45 miles from Yictoria). 

Pure Short-horn Durham bull ; other bulls ; bull-calves ; work oxen : 
cows ; rams ; ewes ; boars ; sows ; stallions ; brood mares ; saddle, carriage, 
and draught horses. 

Wheat; barley: oats; peas; hops. 

Turnips (Swedish and white) ; mangel-wurzel ; carrots \ beet ; cattle- 
cabbage. 

Turkeys ; geese ; ducks ; dorking-fowls ; 
salt and fresh ; cheese. 

Apples ; pears ; peaches ; plums ; grapes ; 

Potatoes ; cabbages ; lettuces ; parsnips ; 
celery ; beets ; onions ; melons ; tomatoes ; 

Agricultural implements ; ploughs ; thrashing machines ; salmon barrelled 
and preserved in tins ; currant wines ; cider ; beer ; cranberries in barrels : 
waggons ; harness, &c. 

The same as the above, in quantity per acre, and in quality can be pro- 
duced by the district of Xanaimo — (a flourishiag coal port, 79 miles from 
Yictoria) and by Coniox district, farther up the east coast, 134 miles fro-m 
Yictoria. 



pigeons ; rabbits ; eggs ; butter, 

quinces ; peas ; maize, 
vegetable-marrows ; cauliflowers ; 
pumpkins ; squashes ; cucumbers. 



44 VANCOUVER ISLAND. 

Comox is a picturesque settlement — in one locality 12,000 acres well watered 
and dotted with oaks and alders — fine stock and crops at Comox — also church, 
school, &c. 

Comox looks much to Nanaimo as a market. 



Prices of Farm Stock. 

Victoria Maeket, 1874. 

English. 

Beef cattle, dressed weight 12 to 16 cents per lb. £0 5f to £0 8 

Cows with calves, 35 to 60 dollars each .. .. 7 „ 12 

Dry cows, 30 dollars each GOO 

Calves, 10 to 17 dollars each 2 „ 3 8 

Yearlings (good), 20 to 30 dollars each .. .. 4 ,, 6 

Two-year olds, 25 to 37 dollars each 5 „ 7 8 

Three-year olds, 40 to 42 dollars each .. .. 800,, 880 

Pigs dressed, 12i to 13 cents per lb 6 „ 6^ 

Chickens, 4^ dollars per dozen 18 

Eggs, 30 to 75 cents per dozen .. 1 2-^- „ 3 

Prices of Farm Stock (presumed "in gold"), in 1874, at Olympia (140 
miles by sea from Victoria), on the United States Territory, whence 
Stock reaches Victoria Market, paying 10 per cent, ad valorem duty. 
Beef cattle on foot, 8 to 10 cents per lb. market well stocked. 

English. 

Milk cows, 40 to 50 dollars each £8 to £10 

Yeal calves, 8 to 10 dollars each 1 12 „ 2 . 

Yearlings, 10 to 15 dollars each 200 ,,300 

Two-year olds, 20 to 22 dollars each 4 „ 4 8 

Work cattle, 150 to 250 dollars per yoke (pair).. 30 „ 50 

Sheep, 3^ to 4 dollars each 14 „ 16 

Pigs (dressed), 11 to 12^ cents per lb 5^ „ 6 

Hides, 4 to 5 dollars each 16 „ 1 2 

Work-horses, 150 dollars (30?. English) each for good ones; common, 
30 to 40 dollars (<dl to 8?.). 

Prices of Farm Produce. 

Victoria Market, 1874. 

Cents. s. d. ' ' lbs. 

Wheat, per lb., 2i to 3, or English (at 3 cents), 7 9 per bushel, 62 
, , , , 5 2 , , 50 

, , (at 21 cents), 4 2 , , 40 

6 7,, 63 

, , (at 2 cents), 4 8 per sack, 56 

14 ,, 168 
9 4 ,, 112 
, , , , about lid. per lb. 

Mangel- Wurzel, per lb., 2 cents, or English, 9Z. Qs. 8d. per ton of 2240 lbs. 
Hay, per ton of 2000 lbs., 20 to 30 dollars, pr 4?. to 61 per load of 18 cwts. 
(2016 lbs.). 



Barley 


2i 


Oats 


, 2 to 2i 


Pease 


,, 2i 


Potatoes 


, 1^ to 2 


Carrots 


2 


Turnips 


2 


Beets 


3 



VANCOUVER ISLAND, 45- 

AvEKAGE Wholesale Dealers' Prices or Meat in Great Britain for 3 years ending ISTO— per 
stone of 8 lbs., sinking offal. 







English. British Columbia 




s. 


d. s. d. Dollars. Dollar. 


Cattle, 4 qualities, ranging from . . 


3 


3i to 5 4 or 0-82 to 1-33 


Calves, 2 , , , , 


4 


2i ,, 5 5 ,, 1-05 ,, 1-35 


Sheep, 4 


3 


5f ,, 5 1i ,, 0-87 ,, 1*39 


Lambs, 1 quality , , 


6 


2i ,, 6 10 ,, 1-55 ., 1-70 


Pigs, 2 qualities 


3 


6i ., 5 Si ,, 0-88 ,, 1-41 



The average prices of wheat, barley, and oats, in England and Wales, for 3 years ending 1872, 
vers — 

Wheat, about 2i cents per lb (6s. Sd. per bushel). 

Barley , , 2 , , (4s. 6d. , , ). 

Oats ,, If ,, (2s. lid!. ,, ). 

Agricultural implements cost about one-third more in British Columbia than in England. 



Cost of Labour on Farms — with a few words on that 

subject. 

All labour is dear in British Columbia. 

An ordinary unskilled labourer, such as one would employ to dig or cut 
fire- wood, receives 1'50 dollar (6s. English) a day ; if he can lay claim to 
skill enough to qualify him to attend to a garden or an orchard, he readily 
commands 2 dollars (8s. English), or 2-50 dollars (10s. English) a day. 

Farm servants, engaged by the month, are paid at wages from 20 to 40 
dollars (4?. to 81. English) per month, v^ith board and lodging, according to 
the kind of work required of them, and the responsibility of their posi- 
tions. A few Indians are employed in the seaboard districts, at 15 to 20 
dollars (oZ. to 4Z. English) per month, with board and lodging, by farmers 
who understand their character. In the interior Indians are largely employed 
as herders and for general farm work. In Vancouver Island and the New 
Westminster district, it may be said that a dollar (4s. English) a day, with 
board and lodging, is the pay of the farm labourer. Higher wages are paid 
in the interior. 

However strong and active a man may be, he cannot expect the highest 
wage until he knows his work and the ways of the country. At the above 
high wages, farmers, of course, employ as little labour as possible ; indeed, 
the item of labour is the great leak in the farming business in British Co- 
lumbia, as it is in most young countries. 

The farmer in British Columbia can get good land for nothing, or almost 
nothing ; and he gets as high prices for much of his produce as the English 
farmer gets. The British Columbian farmer pays no rent, but his labour bill 
may be set off, to some extent, against the rent of the English farmer. 

If the British Columbian farmer can, himself and by his family, do a large 
share of the farm work, he must make money quickly. That is the point. 

Winter Care of Stock. 

Nothing strikes a British Columbian farmer more, who visits Eastern 
Canada, New England, or even Scotland, than the enormous haymows on 
the farms, and the small number of cattle to eat them. The cost of rearing 
cattle in some of these countries exceeds their value when reared. It must 
cost ten times as much to winter .an animal in these countries as in British 



46 VANCOUVER ISLAND. 

Columbia at present ; and the value of tlie animal when sold to the butcher 
is not largely different in the two places. 

The winter /ooc? question is not a very important one in Vancouver Island. 
Some shelter, protection fi-om excessive rain, and a dry bed, are what cattle 
need in winter in Vancouver Island more than stored food. The undergrowth 
in the neighbouring forest generally enables cattle to find food for themselves ; 
still it is best (and particularly as you get north from Victoria) to have a 
moderate supply of hay and straw for winter food, if only to entice the 
cattle to approach the homestead. They then drop manure within reach, and 
become tame. A dry bed is important. With so much wood at hand, rough 
sheds can easily be built. The roof may be " shakes " (splitwood). Ferns 
cut in early summer and stored, or branches of firs, make beds. If the site is 
exposed, and the locality is one afibrding a sale for fire-wood, piles of fire- 
wood will afford protecting walls. Milk cows and calves, or sick cattle, may 
want closer sheds. When all is said upon this subject, cattle require very 
much less attention in winter in Vancouver Island than in England and 
Scotland. A little care will make them even improve between December 
and April. 

These remarks on Winter food, or care of stock, apply to the whole West 
Cascade Region of the province. 

1^ LUCK POLICY IN FARMING IS BAD. =^ 




Part of Columbia-street, New Westminster. From a ptiotograph. 

West Cascade Region. 

Britisli Columbia — Mainland portion ; vast country — really not much known 
yet — length from corner to corner 800 miles ; length by straight north and 
south line, about 420 miles ; greatest breadth, about 400 miles. 

The Eocky Mountain Eange forms the eastern boundary of the province. 
The generally received idea is that the Cascade Eange is almost parallel 
to Eocky Eange, between Eocky Eange and coast (see Map) ; very ramified, 
its own average breadth from 15 to 50 miles ; average height, 7000 feet, 
with towering volcanic peaks ; send down in westerly and southerly direc- 
tions rugged mountain spurs to" the sea ; deep, gloomy sea inlets run up 
between these giant spurs ; inlets on coast braced together by high moun- 
tains, sometimes called a " Coast Eange." The physical structure of so vast 
an Alpine country is, however, probably not yet precisely known, and some 
experienced travellers describe differently the direction of these so-called 
" Cascade " and " Coast" Eanges (see Appendix.) Fine scenery on the whole 
Mainland coast ; the overflow of lakes pours down the steep declivities ; 
avalanches have cut lines down the forest from mountain summits to 
water's edge, green timber growing where the descents are old ; crevices 
here and there filled with snow ; through rifts and gorges on the elevated 
shores are seen mountains far inland, some domed, others peaked. 

The Cascade Eange runs south into American tenitory, is broken up in 
Oregon and Northern California into spurs, known as Siskiyou Eange, then 
extends to the east by connecting ranges, and forms the famous Sierra 
Nevadas of California. 

The reader, adopting for the present the above common notion as to these 
Cascade and Coast Eanges, will be good enough to fix his eye upon the 
Cascade Eange (see Map), for, as already said, it divides British Columbia 
into two grand divisions — the humid forest region, west of the Cascade 
Eange (that is, between the Cascade Eange and the sea), and the dry 
grazing region, east of the Cascade Eange (that is, between the Cascade 
Eange and the Eocky Eange). 

The West Cascade Eegion, particularly that portion lying opposite to Van- 
couver Island, is similar in climate and productions, and also in contour to 
the island, but has grander features. The island is, in fact, a piece broken 



48 WEST CASCADE EEGION. 

off from this Mainland Eegion. The soil of the West Cascade Eegion is 
moist and loamy, with luxmiant vegetation. 

The East Cascade Region is more open, with extensive plains and valleys, 
though mountainous still ; climate dry, timber scarce and rather poor ; soil 
light ; herbage excellent. 

Soils of Mainland. 

I cannot accurately describe these : the geological survey now in progress 
will enable better information to be given in subsequent editions. One de- 
scription, by a well-informed gentleman, states that the soil in the lower 
country, and again north of Quesnel Pdver, and generally in the Cascade and 
Selkirk Ranges, is moist, well wooded, and mixed with, perhaps mainly 
constituted of, decomposed organic substances. 

In the middle of the province, the Fraser, Thompson, and Okanagan dis- 
tricts, the soil is light, generally a sandy loam of no great depth, usually 
immediately superimposed on gravel beds (northern drift), occasionally of 
very great thickness, and always affording perfect drainage. 

Another gentleman says that the soil of the Mainland is of three kinds. 
The first is rich and loamy, consisting of decayed vegetable matter and allu- 
vial deposits. This is the character of the soil by the banks of the streams 
or lakes, and in the bottoms of valleys, and wherever land has been formed 
of deposits brought down by the streams from the mountains. 

The second kind of soil (characterising the basin of the River Fraser, but 
not the country near its mouth) is lighter and more sandy. Being formed by 
the disintegration and decomposition of rocks (a process that may be seen any 
rainy day), it contains a great deal of lime (the mountains being frequently 
limestone). To this fact, together with the strong sun, is probably to be 
ascribed its fertility, notwithstanding its lightness. It is found to a depth 
varying from 1 to 3 feet, and beneath it is a subsoil of gravel, sometimes 
of clay. 

The third description of soil is neither so good as the first nor so light 
as the second ; it rather resembles ordinary land in the mother country. Such 
is, for instance, the soil around Williams Lake, on the Brigade Trail, &c. 



New Westminster District. — General Remarks. 

The " West Cascade Region," above mentioned, is, as also above said, very 
similar to Vancouver Island in its climate and productions. Not much 
farming land compared with area; country not explored — probably farming 
land in valleys and flats (witness the Pemberton Meadows, Lake Lillooet). 
The rivers which flow from Cascade Range into the great sea inlets are com- 
paratively small, and often have rocky banks; alluvial deposits (ivith one 
(/rand exception) are scanty in that portion of Cascade Region opposite to 
Vancouver Island, but such deposits are said to be considerable farther 
north, as at Skena and Nasse Rivers — the " grand exception " above 
named is the low land at and near the mouth of Fraser Biver, and for 
some distance up it, and up tributaries of the lower portion of Fraser River 
(see Map) . 

The Fraser River does not come from Cascade Range, but from Rocky 



WEST CASCADE EEGION. 49 

Range. It is tlie only river in British Columbia (except in tlie far north-west 
of the province) which has strength to cross the dry country between Eocky 
and Cascade Eanges, and get through the latter range to the sea. It is fed in 
its course by streams running from every point of the compass — a noble river, 
but, as already said, navigable only for considerable stretches, owing to rapids. 
Yale is the head of steamboat navigation from the sea. After bursting through 
the mountain passes at Yale and Hope, the Fraser is a tranquil, steady, clay- 
coloured stream for the latter part of its course. 

The whole distance from Harrison Lake to the present mouth of the Fraser 
was probably once an estuary. This former estuary has been gradually filled 
Lip by sedimentary deposits from the river, a work still going on, protected 
by Vancouver Island as a breakwater. (See Map.) 

This country on the lower portion of the Fraser is what I may call the 
New Westminster District. It is in general a wooded district, but has large 
tracts of open arable and grazing land, delicious atmosphere — no malaria or 
ague — water-carriage, facilities for shipment. Snow begins in January and is 
gone by March ; not continuous ; plenty of fish and game in the district ; 
will raise anything Yancouver Island will raise and more ; three large saw- 
mills, employing 600 people ; a grist-mill ; distillery ; farmer's society, &c. 
About 200 settlers located themselves in this district during 1874:. 

At the Provincial Agricultural Exhibition, 1874, the Xew Westminster 
District competed strongly in all exhibits with the island district, and carried 
away prizes for cattle, pigs, poultry, wheat, oats, peas, flax, carrots, turnips, 
butter, eggs, cheese, melons, tomatoes, pumpkins ; potatoes, cabbage, cauli- 
flowers, onions, beans, maize, apples, pears, grapes, quinces, peaches, hops, 
pickled salmon, canned salmon, etc. 

The 'Mainland Guardian' (Xew Westminster Journal), said, on March, 
1872 : — " A minimum yield of from 30 to 40 bushels of wheat to the acre, 
" is the ordinary average yield in the districts of Kamloops, Okanagan, Nicola, 
" Sumass, Chilliwhack, and the Lower Fraser. Between the town of New 
" Westminster and the mouth of the river, a yield very much exceeding this 
"" is often obtained, not because of better and more suitable soil, but solely due 
" to more careful cultivation ; 50 bushels of oats and an equal yield of barley 
■^•' per acre are commonly reached. Indian corn yields per acre 60 or 70 bushels. 
'• The yield of roots and green crops is generally encom'aging, being unsurp^assed 
"*' by any in the world. 

" On one fann the yield of potatoes was 7 tons, on another as high as 15 
-' tons per acre. Not a few specimens reached the enormous weight of 2i lbs. 
" and even 3 lbs. Turnips give 25 tons to the acre. Onions from 4 to 6 tons ; 
'' while carrots, cabbages, beets, cauliflov\^ers, &c., grow to a size which may 
'•'• without exaggeration be described as enormous. 

" Of fruits it may be enough to state, that the ordinary kinds (apples, 
■'' pears, plums, cherries, currants, gooseberries, strawberries, &c.) found in the 
■" eastern part of the Dominien and in England, grow luxuriantly and yield 
" plentifully." 

Capabilities of the New Westminster District. 

The capabilities of this district, which contains nearly half a million acres, 
are not quite realised by the public. Men look at the large trees which 
cover a great portion of it, and shrug their shoulders. It should, however 

E 



50 WEST CASCADE REGION. 

"be remembered tliat the New Westminster district contains the only large- 
mass of choice agricultural land anywhere on the mainland of the Pacific 
slope lying actually upon the ocean, with a shipping port in its midst. A 
navigable river cuts it through, which is sheltered at its mouth. The river 
is full of salmon and other good fish, and the district abounds with game. 
The climate, though somewhat humid, has neither the wetness of Western 
Oregon, nor the withering dryness of some of the larger Californian valleys. 

Similar land to that of the New Westminster district is found immediately 
south of it, across the national boundary line, but., being formed by smaller 
rivers, it does not lie in such a mass. The land is lower, and comprises 
more tidelands cut up by sloughs. 

I do not remember in Oregon or California any such land, so placed, as the- 
New Westminster district. Portions of the Willamette valley, in Oregon, 
have as good soil, and the Willamette valley is far larger, but the nature of 
the approach from the sea to Portland is a -drawback. In California, the 
transport from the interior to the shipping port adds considerably to the cost 
of wheat. I should be sorry to see our British Columbian settlers " crazy 
on wheat" — dairy or mixed farming will be best in the New Westminster 
district — but it is clear that the New Westminster district farmers will be 
less dependent on provincial markets for any wheat they may produce than 
farmers in other parts of the mainland. Being upon the ocean, will give 
them the world for a market, in case of need. 

The drawbacks are not greater than have been overcome by settlers in 
places that do not present such general attractions of fertile soil, situation,, 
climate, &c. A good part of the district is covered with very large timber ;. 
other parts require draining and dyking ; the mosquitoes in some years and 
in certain localities are troublesome for a short time. But go where a settler 
will he has to balance conditions. 

Freshets and Tidal Overflows. 

The Fraser Eiver and tributaries of it overflow a portion of the p)rairies in' 
this district for a short time in early summer, when the volume of water in the- 
rivers is increased by the drainage which follows the melting of snow throughout 
the country. This rising of the water is called a " freshet." The whole Pacific 
slope — California, Oregon, Washington territory, and British Columbia, — 
owing to the physical structure of this part of the continent, is more or less- 
liable to severe floods over low lying districts near rivers. 

The rivers generally rise quickly. 

The sea also comes over a portion of the land near the mouth of the Fraser 
— generally in stormy weather in winter. This happens perhaps two or three 
times in winter, for a few hours at each time. These tidal overflows do not 
interfere with cropping. The above mentioned "summer freshets" do not 
overflow these " tidelands." 

Parliament has lately passed an Act to facilitate dyking. 

New Westminster District. — Special Description. 

T will describe the New Westminster district, beginning at the mouth of 
the Kiver Fraser : — 

We find there extensive, low, rich " tidelands or flats," free from timber y. 



WEST CASCADE EEGION. 51 

with patches of Avillows, rosebushes, and, about the border of higher ground, 
crab-apples. A coarse grass, cahed " swamp hay," is jjlentifuh Tliere are a 
good many salt-water sloughs, which add to the difficulty of dyking. 

Farm after farm is being occupied in this section, and there is room for 
settlers. There are 29,000 acres of very good land in an island between the 
north and south amis of the Fraser. 

On the north arm, a small settlement of about 20 farmers ; 500 acres 
cultivated; samples of red and white wheat described as S^ feet high, 
yielding 50 bushels to the acre ; average of course less. Two potatoes 
(" Breely Prolific ") yielded 67 lbs. Timothy hay, barley, oats, peas, &c., 
good. A few grasshoppers appeared in 1872. 

Churches, schools, &c. Yisiting clergyman lectured lately on the " Origin 
of the English Language." 

Left bank of "south arm,'"' land very fertile, easily cleared from brush, and 
drained ; dykes are being made ; buildings erected. 47 men, 5 women, 15 
white children, and 10 half-breeds. 

Mud bay — oyster-beds, great resort of wild geese and ducks. 

A district exactly like this mouth of Fraser district, indeed, part of it, 
within the United States territory, near the mouth of the Lummi and back 
from Semiahmoo, is filling up with population rapidly. 

Ascending the Fraser, we in no long time come to forests on each side ; 
giant pines, cedars, maple, alders, cottonwood ; real agricultural value of 
the land cannot be seen. Luxuriant vegetation in the forest — berry-bushes 
of all kinds, also ferns, ground-creepers, moss — the sweet-scented white 
flowers of the wild apple-tree shine among the green foliage in summer. 
Scenery and products altogether on a grand scale. But let the settler take 
heart : he is beside the sea here, no railway carriage to the seaboard ; there 
is much good land requiring little clearing, and plenty well worth the 
clearing. There are in parts extensive flats covered with wild hay, also fine 
prairies with fertile soil ; excellent crops and dairy yield ; thriving farms near 
the town of New Westminster, and settlements also at Pitt Pdver, Keatsey, 
Langley, Matsqui, &c. For instance, at Pitt Eiver 20,000 acres of good 
arable land requiring no clearing — the part of it subject to freshets is good 
now for grazing. 

At Langley a newspaper correspondent (' Dail}^ Standard,' Yictoria, Novem- 
ber, 1872) describes farms with " several hundred acres of alluvial soil, 
" black mould with clay bottom ; at your feet several square miles of green 
" meadow land, the gleaming river beyond, and across it the dark Cascade 
" range ; a stream full of trout meandering through the meadow." Another 
farm of " 1000 acres, every part cultivated, drained, and laid off into large 
" parks of 30 to 40 acres each: the steading in the form of a square; a 
" fine mansion-house." Another of " 800 acres, 200 cultivated, fine black 
" soil, all fit for the plough, drained by a stream which skirts it." Again, 
" 600-acre grass dairy farm ; cows, Durham breed : farmer cures butter." 
The next, " 300 acres, stock and crop owned by the blacksmith. Good 
" public school ; neat Presbyterian church." The writer ascribes an extra- 
oi'dinary production per acre to these farms. 

Between Langley and Matsqui, eastward from south end of Langley Prairie 
and running southward towards the boundary, is a strip of very good land — 
trees burnt — undergrowth dense. ' In this neighbourhood is one of the finest 

E 2 



52 WEST CASCADE REGION. 

belts of alder land in the district ; it begins near the river, runs south seven 
miles, three miles wide, comparatively level, free from undergrowth and above 
high water ; Matsqui Prairie four miles square. 

Higher up the river still (see Map), where the rivers Sumass and Chiluk- 
weyuk (Chilli whack) join the Fraser, are rising settlements — Sumass Prairie 
25,000 acres. Prime beef, choice butter and cheese, fine cereals ; wide- 
spreading fertile prairies and valleys here, only thinly peopled yet ; 60 to 70 
farms ; good dwellings, barns, stables, churches, schools, shops, grist-mill ; 
600 acres wheat raised last year, 40 to 50 bushels an acre ; 200 acres oats : 
also potatoes, peas, beans, hops, fruit, and even tobacco ; supply beef to Yale 
and Hope (Yale gets some beef also from Nicola) ; extent of prairies great ; 
much good land also on the Chi Hi whack above the valley that would do 
well when cleared. Drawback to Sumass and Chilliwhack at present, over- 
flow in parts from river freshets ; roads rather muddy in bad weather. 

The country between Chilliwhack on the west and Cheam on the east, a 
distance of twelve miles, and between the Fraser river on the north and the 
mountains on the south, a distance of fifteen miles, contains a large quantity 
of rich agricultural land at present unoccupied. Although nearly all timbered, 
it is of a nature requiring very little labour in clearing. 

Perhaps the best of the whole view of the Lower Fraser district — a view 
very extensive and beautiful — is to be had from the top of Discovery Mountain 
in this neighbourhood. 

I will sketch in the Appendix one year's history of these Sumass and 
Chilliwhack ssttlements by giving extracts from local newspapers, and thus 
will photograph a settler's life in the New Westminster district before the 
mental eye of the intending emigrant. The winter was the worst known 
in America for forty years. I will also give in the Appendix an abridged 
special report on this district generally. (See Appendix.) 

The New Westminster district and Vancouver Island district, already 
described, are the only two portions of the West Cascade region that are 
"settled." It would appear that another part of this region is worthy 
of attention, namely, the country in the neighbourhood of the Nasse and 
Skena Kivers. 

Nasse-Skena District. 

Steam vessels from Nanaimo now ascend the Kiver Skena. It is one of the 
routes selected by miners in order to reach the district of Omineca (Peace 
Eiver). This river is acquiring importance, and will probably require some 
lighthouses and buoys. 

The Kiver Nasse is a little further to the north than the Skena, and derives 
a certain amount of importance from its giving access to a more northern region 
than that nearer the Skena, and from the fact that that region is also rich 
in gold mines. (See Cassiar mines page 77.) Both are valuable also for their 
fisheries. They receive the waters from or near the Lake Alal, which is on 
the high lands. The River Nasse is quite close to the frontier of Alaska, 
which by no means detracts from its importance. The steamer ' Union ' 
ascended it in 1865 to a distance of more than 25 miles from its mouth. 

The following account is taken from the 'British Colonist,' Victoria, 17th 
September, 1872 : — 

"Messrs. Steele and Shorts, who went to Omineca by the Nasse Eiver route and returned by the 
way of I'ort St. James and Fraser River, are loud in their praise of the magnificent tracts of farming 



WEST CASCADE EEGION. 63 

land over which they passed in going and coming. On the Nasse for forty miles above its mouth, 
large grassy flats spread out like tables on either side. They were not dissimilar to the delta lands 
of the Fraser, except that they will not require dyking to be brought under cultivation. From the 
mouth to the Falls of Nasse River is forty miles. To this point, and above it again, the river may 
be navigated by steamers of light draught. On either side of the river are immense tracts of prairie- 
land ; but the finest tracts in the province lie between the Nasse and Skena. The distance between 
the rivers is about a hundred and forty miles, and the country is a natural garden, covered with 
wild timothy knee high (it was in June when the travellers crossed), well watered by small brooks, 
and here and there belts of timber or Indian potato-patches. Thousands of acres adapted for stock- 
raising or fanning were seen. The virgin soil is like the rich black loam of the famous Sacramento 
Valley, where sixty bushels of wheat used to be grown to an acre. The valley is from four to fifteen 
miles wide, and so level that a buggy may be driven the entire distance — the Indians having there 
maintained a good wide road for centuries. At several points the native suspension bridges across 
gulches and rivers are among the most marvellous objects yet discovered in the country. One of 
these bridges is four feet wide and a hundred and twenty-five feet long, and spans a ravine severity 
feet above a running stream. It bears the appearance of great antiquity, but is perfectly safe and 
strong. At this bridge there is a wonderful spring of sweet soda-water, of which the party drank 
with great relish. Its medicinal qualities, as mentioned by the Indians, are astonishing. In June, 
Nasse River was full of oolachans and salmon. The ' catch ' was simply enormous, and as evidence 
of the equable character of the climate and the capabilities of the country to support a large popula- 
tion, we may mention that the Indian tribes inhabiting this section are more numerous than in any 
other section of the province, and that game is verj' plentiful. Between Fort St. James and Nation 
River another magnificent country was crossed. At the Hudson Bay Company's stations acres of 
wheat, oats, barley, beans, &c., were thriving in the open air, while the tables were graced with white 
fish and Arctic trout and game." 

Another writer says : — 

" There is a nice little prairie between Babine and the Forks of Skena where a hundred settlers 
eould easily find room to locate. The soil is black vegetable loam, with red top grass, and a stream 
runs through it. This creek is a branch of the Aquilgate (named after a tribe of Indians who dwell 
In the neighbourhood, who are very peaceable and well-disposed to the whites). They are mostly 
Roman Catholics. Babine is, from all accounts, the best fishing station in the country ; the Indians 
catch salmon and salmon-trout the whole year round. The timber in this section of the country 
is mostly spruce and black pine." 

Some years ago Major Downie made similar statements in his report of an 
exploration of the Skena Eiver and country. He says that, after passing the 
coast range, the valleys present extensive tracts of good land well suited for,, 
settlement. He took two days to traverse one of them, which he says is as 
fine a farming country as one could wish to see. On a large tributary on the 
north side, within this territory, the land is described as good and well adapted 
for farming ; and there the Indians grow plenty of potatoes. He describes 
fine flats running back to the mountains, which recede four or five miles 
from the river ; speaks of the Skena country being in parts the best-looking 
mineral country he had seen in British Columbia ; alludes to gold which he 
found there ; mentions that the Eiver Skena passes through an extensive coal 
country, the seams cut through by the river varying from three to thirty-five 
feet in thickness ; superior to any that he had seen in Vancouver's Island 
(where the mines at Nanaimo and elsewhere are already of value commer- 
cially), or in British Columbia ; and in other reports he says salmon and other 
fish are in inconceivable abundance. 

Major Pope, chief Engineer of an American Telegraph Company, who sur- 
veyed this portion of British Columbia, stated in his Eeports that open, grassy 
plains, with trees interspersed as in a park, appeared near the Skena, particu- 
larly as its head- waters were approached. 

Again, in the Victoria * Standard,' towards the end of 1872, a writer, 
describing the passage from Victoria to Skena, said : — 

"The entire voyage is very little different from river navigation, except in one or two places that 
have to be crossed; to those who think that the portion of country extending up to Stekin River 



54 WEST CASCADE EEGIOI^. 

is of little value, allow me to say such will soon be proved to be otherwise ; that amidst the apparent 
desolation will spring up towns, -villages, hamlets, &c., which the unthinking traveller will smile 
■apon when you call his attention to such a possibility. Yet such will be amidst those mountain 
fastnesses; many a rich mineral deposit lies hidden for the present, but will be discovered and 

developed as man's reciuirements call for them Further, I am informed that north of the 

Omineca country will be found land for farming purposes second to none in the province, so that in a 
few years you will have a district even of more importance to us here than in Cariboo." 

It is possible that a practical farmer might find draT^'hacks to settlement in 
this Nasse-Skena country which were not apparent to travellers passing 
through it at a favourable season. A part of it may be like the beautiful 
swampy interior of Xewfoundland. The Indians might at present be trouble- 
some. The moisture might interfere with harvesting. I must, however, add 
that statements of the same kind as the above were made to me in California 
last year by an American scientific gentleman who had spent a considerable time 
in that portion of British Columbia, studying the character and language of the 
natives. He was well acquainted with the whole Pacific coast, and appeared to 
think that not the least promising part of British Columbia was in the neigh- 
bourhood of the Nasse and Skena rivers — a gold-bearing territory with moderate 
climate, good land, fine salmon rivers, valuable timber, also beds of coal, the 
whole situated close to the continually open navigation of the Pacific Ocean. 
The climate of the district near the coast resembles that of the New West- 
minster district, with considerably more moisture. 

Queen Charlotte Islands 

Are visible on clear days from the mainland as a hazy outline. Three prin- 
cipal islands — Graham, Moresby, and Prevost ; probably much like Vancouver 
Island : western side more rugged than eastern side ; southern islands lower 
than northern ones ; Moresby Island high in interior ; long stretch of flat 
land skirting whole eastern coast ; islands densely wooded, chiefly " spruce " 
and flne cypress ; alders on the flats ; undergrowth luxuriant, chiefly salal ; no 
deer nor wolves. Natives plant potatoes and turnips ; climate mild and very 
moist ; little snow ; 1st April no snow on lowlands ; during that month mos- 
quitoes and humming-birds. 

Indians tall and fair complexioned ; both sexes good-looking ; intelligent ; 
good artistic skill ; courageous, but cruel and vindictive ; are becoming more 
used to strangers, but not to be trusted yet. 

As regards the value of these islands, it is probable that so long as better 
portions of British Columbia invite settlers, these islands will only attract 
the attention of the hunter and miner. Gold has been found on them, and 
anthracite coal, &c. Hunters might flnd it profitable to kill sea-otters, which 
are numerous on the western shores. The farming capabilities of the islands, 
like those of Vancouver Island, will probably prove to be greater than is 
now supposed. But at present it is beUeved that the fierce character of the 
natives would render any attempts at permanent settlements, unless in strojig 
parties, dangerous. 

Winter Care of Stock. — West Cascade Region. 

See remarks on this subject for Vancouver Island, p. 46. These apply to 
the whole West Cascade region of the province, as well as to Vancouver 
Island. 




4}^m 



m: 



-^M 




From a sketch by A G Dallas, L'^q 



East Cascade Region. 

I have described the AYest Cascade region of the province. 

The emigrant, if he choose the West Cascade region, may either settle in 
Vancouver Island or in the isew "Westminster district, or he may become a 
pioneer in the more northern Xasse-Skena district. 

The East Cascade region now demands attention. 

This great region, lying between the Cascade Eange and the Eocky Eange 
-(see Map) is about 800 miles long from corner to corner. A straig})t line, 
north and south, would give about 420 miles in length — the breadth varying 
from 200 to 225 miles. 

This region is not level, as might be inferred from the Emigration !Map. In 
fact, its surface is a series of continuous upheavals, among which (to speak 
of the best known portion of the region) we may distinguish three generally 
parallel ranges, or masses of mountains lying between the valley of the lower 
portion of the Eraser Eiver and the Eocky Mountains. These ranges are — 
first, the Cascade, immediately east of the Eraser (at this part 3000 to 4000 
feet high, and 40 to 50 miles broad) ; secondly, the Gold Eange, east of the 
Columbia Eiver (2000 to 5000 feet high) ; and thirdly, the Selkirk Eange 
(7000 to 9000 feet high), lying east from the Arrow Lakes and enclosed 
within the "Big Bend" of the Columbia — so called because the river has to 
make a great bend to get round the Selkirk Eange. (See Map.) 

The Selkirk and Gold mountains may perhaps, broadly, be considered as 
flanking ridges of the Eocky Eange. The Gold Eange presents generallj^, west 
■of the Lower Arrow Lake, a rolling hilly surface, and descends uTegulaiiy, and 
rather rapidly, to a sea-level of about 1100 feet round Okanagan Lake ; 1000 
feet round Nicola Lake ; 800 to 1100 feet at Kamloops Lake. 

Going towards the north, the country tends again to become higher, and 
the surface is marked by extensive tablelands of considerable altitude; for 
instance, the Bridge Creek plateau, or " divide," between the Elvers Eraser 
and North Thompson, is 3500 feet high. 

If we cross the Eraser and advance in a north-westerly direction (see Map), 
we enter the extensive region watered by the Chilcotin and its tributaries — 
a region surfaced like the last-mentioned, and having much the same general 
elevation, with of course considerable depressions. The highest part of the 



56 EAST CASCADE EEGION. 

trail from the coast, crossing the plateau, north-west of Tatla Lake, is 4360 
feet above the sea-level. 

Eetracing our steps across the Fraser, say to about the line of the Horsefly 
district, and proceeding thence north and east (see Map), we find that the 
country quickly rises into the irregular mass of mountains (2500 to 6300 feet 
high) known as the Cariboo Mountains, and does not again lose its general 
elevation in that direction, but is merged soon in the mass of the Eocky 
Eange. 

The Fraser Kiver has to make a great bend to get round the Cariboo- 
Mountains, just as the Columbia Eiver (see above) has to bend to get round 
the Selkirk Eange. 

I will not attempt to describe the immense area north and west from the- 
headwaters of the Chilcotin, further than to say that it is believed to be 
somewhat less elevated than the highest Chilcotin plateau, abounding in large 
and small lakes, surrounded by mountains, not however without j)rairies and 
wide, park-like grassy plains (possibly somewhat swampy). 



Rough. Sketch of East Cascade Region. 

The general features of its surface may be described in a few words — rugged 
Alpine masses, wooded on their slopes and holding lakes, swamj^s, and moist 
meadows in their embrace — arid mountain ranges and ridges crossing and 
recrossing — rolling wooded hills and grassy hillocks — tahlelands, generally of 
high elevation, often of great extent, with and without forest — long terraced 
river-channels or valleys — wide, open valleys — deep, narrow, wooded valleys — 
short valleys (often called "prairies") — a land also of laJces — innumerable nar- 
row, elongated lakes of all sizes, from the bright pond to the lake 100 miles long,, 
often linked by streams — some lakes steepsided right round their margins, others 
w^all-edged Avith intervening swamps, but oftener with gently shelving rims 
backed by open grassy hills. Eivers — smaller than the drainers of such moun- 
tain systems might be supposed to be (the light soil absorbs them) — generally 
deep-grooved and rapid — threading the whole country, bursting through rockj' 
walls — seeking lake after lake — turning and twisting to find a way to the 
ocean, but for the most part unable to do so, nearly all being finally swallowed 
up by the Fraser and Columbia rivers. Climate, alread}^ described. Trees — An 
immense area in the southern part of the East Cascade region, say from the 
Horsefly district south to the American boundary, is generally unwooded. 
There are wide expanses of open land without trees, or only with belts, clumps^ 
and dots of cone-bearing trees without underbrush — extending, however, intc> 
forests as the Eocky Mountains or their flanking ridges are approached, and 
again towards the northern and north-western portions of the region, say 
bej^ond the line of the Horsefly district and Williams Lake. Eemotely, in the 
north-west, the country again becomes, in many parts, thinly wooded, and the 
firs are rarer. In the neighbourhood of the Skena, the maples and cotton wood 
in many parts contrast cheeringly with the sombre hues of the conifers that 
abound in the Yallej^ of the Eraser. 

To attempt to sum up the capabilities of this great region (itself but a por- 
tion of the province of British Columbia) would, in the present condition of 
our knowledge of it, be an ofi"euce against common sense. We know a little 
about parts of the region, and may offer a few remarks accordingly. 



EAST CASCADE EEGION. 0< 

Taking into consideration the liealthfulness of the climate, Tvith its short 
winters and long, bright summers, the fertile soil, vast extent of grass pasture, 
streams filled A\ith fish, the abundance of minerals, and grand mountain and 
valley scenery — adding to these considerations the quantity of vacant public 
land open to settlement, and the comparatively small expense required to 
form a settlement, I know of no region on the continent of Xorth America 
that holds out equal inducements to suitable settlers. It will be peopled by a 
happy and prosperous community within a few years after the opening of the 
railway through it, which shall supply cheap transportation for immigrants 
and their supplies, and for mining machiner3\ 

The main drawback to this fine country at present is the want of quick and 
cheap transportation. This drawback will be removed by the constraction of 
the Canadian Pacific Eailway, lately commenced in British Columbia. 

Farmers have produced, by the aid of a simple process of irrigation, wheat. 
barley, oats, Indian corn, timothy hay, potatoes, carrots, turnips, cabbages, 
tomatoes, muskmelons, watermelons, grapevine, tobacco, broom corn, sweet 
almond, castor-oil plant, peach, and almost all other fruits. 

Fern is seldom seen in the East Cascade region. A few mosquitoes only are 
found along wooded watercourses. In some parts, flies trouble the animals. 

Irrigation. 

Irrigation is generally required for the production of grain in the East- 
Cascade region. It is used in all parts from which a market is accessible, and 
sure and bountiful crops are obtained. The works consist generally of a dyke 
which, retains the waters of a lake, or of a river, in such a way as to form a 
reservoir. In times of drought, once or twice during the summer this water is- 
allowed to run through a conduit or ditch, which discharges into another 
ditch dug at the upper part of the fields which it is desired to irrigate. From 
this latter ditch proceed a large number of trenches, dug at regular distances- 
along the fields, so that by allowing the water to remain for from 20 to 24 
hours, the land between the trenches is moistened, and vegetation progresses as 
rapidly as if a grateful shower had watered the fields. 

Even as managed now, irrigation is cheaper than clearing land in Eastern 
Canada. The cost of unsystematic irrigation, of course, will vary much in 
difierent parts of British Columbia. One authority says that irrigation in 
British Columbia costs 3 dollars (12s. English) an acre at present ; but this- 
appears to me either a high estimate, or it indicates want of skill, for irrigation 
(managed by individuals) costs only about 1 dollar (4s. English) per acre in 
Colorado, which country is not so well suited for hrigation as British Columbia, 
In India the cost was 2s. an acre many years ago, under a rude and cumbrous 
system. The cost is much less now. 

The expense of irrigation is not an outlay like rent, or like the cost of 
clearing. Irrigation is rather to be classed as we would class manuring. The- 
crops fully justify the outlay. The irrigating fainier has neither to clear nor 
to drain. His land is generally free from weeds and insects, and does not 
wear out. Another advantage is uniform quality of crop — the faiTiier being 
independent of seasons. The ' Eocky Mountain News' (Colorado) lately 
said — " Some weeks ago a shipment of flour from the Eough and Eeady Mills 
" of Denver was made to Boston, and so hizlily prized there that an order 
" came back for fifty cart-loads.. Being always grown by irrigation, it is not 



.58 EAST CASCADE REGION. . 

" surprising that it should be better than tbe wheat of CaUfornia, which is 
" not irrigated, and varies in quality with different seasons." 

This matter of irrigation is second in importance to none. Individuals 
already have done much in British Columbia ; associated effort will do more, 
and by-and-by the province, and perhaps the Dominion, will help. The depth 
of the river channels is a difficulty in some parts, but this is better than 
having rivers that are liable to be dried up. The country is stored with 
water, and its conformation makes me think that local irrigation on some 
considerable systematised scale will be possible — unlike California, where, 
owing to the structure of the country, irrigation must be on a gigantic scale, 
if undertaken at all. 

A few words may be added to explain the general principle of irrigation to 
emigrants who have not tried it in their own countries. It is an ascertained 
fact that water contains impurities, some of which are good for vegetation. 
When you spread water over the earth, much of this fertilising matter settles. 
In open soils through which water passes, the impurities are arrested as the 
water goes through. It is therefore an error to suppose that the soil can only 
loe advantageously watered when there is a clay subsoil. 

The land in a dry region like the East Cascade region must be regarded as 
being stored with soluble fertilisers, which have not been washed away by 
rains into running streams, but now remain, subject to local demands under 
some good plan of irrigation. In watering, you must not lay on water too 
strongly, or you will carry away more of this fertilising matter from the soil 
than you deposit. A level may be used to find in what direction the water 
will go with the slowest possible motion. Running water is better for irriga- 
tion than spring water, because it has absorbed ammonia from the atmosphere, 
and spring water generally contains only mineral matter. 

The American corresiiondent of the ' Field ' (English newspaper), Mr. 
Curley, states that the benefits of irrigation extend beyond the acreage to 
which it is directly applied. Where there is a barrier, as in mountain-bound 
Icoalities, the evaporation from the irrigated portion generally again descends, 
and thus the moisture of the district is increased. Observation has convinced 
him as to the truth of this fact. 

Grazing. 

Though a large portion of the East Cascade region is arid and sterile, the 
country generally is pre-eminently fitted for grazing. The grasses are 
numerous and nutritious — bunch, sage, alkali, sower, redtop, sedge, with 
peavine, &c., &c. 

In the absence of carefully-obtained statistics, it is believed there are in the 
province about 35,000 head of horned cattle, 6000 to 7000 horses, 12,000 to 
15,000 sheep, and about 10,000 pigs— three-fourths of the cattle, and perhaps 
of the others also, being on the mainland. Farmers there have from 200 to 
1000 cattle. Cattle multiply rapidly, and grow very large. Prices of course 
depend on quality to a large extent, but a rough average would give 107. 
(50 dollars) for a cow ; 207. (100 dollars) for a horse ; 17. (5 dollars) for a pig ; 
17. 8s. (7 dollars) for a sheep. 

The bunch grass is a favourite grass. It grows over extensive areas — loves 
warm, dry localities — never ceases to grow — Keart always green, though 
outside dried up — sugary taste perceptible — makes excellent beef — fattens 



EAST CASCADE EEGION. • 59 

cattle more quickly than stall-feeding (if weather is good) — yearling steer has 
been known to weigh 600 lbs. dressed — full-grown 1200 lbs. and more, fed 
■entirely on grass — six to eight weeks on bunch grass will make the leanest 
beasts of burden quite fat — horses leave grain to eat bunch-grass hay — bunch 
gTass goes more to fat than milk, so is not best for dairy purposes. 

Bunch grass is delicate — roots take slight hold of powdery soil — sheep crop 
it too closely — large flocks in a small area will kill the grass — horses and 
mules cut the roots with their hoofs — cattle injure the grass least, as their 
hoofs are cloven, and they do not bite closely. If bunch grass is destroyed, 
Avild sage and absinthe usually appear ; these are good cattle food, especially 
for winter. Sheep are very fond of black sage. 

Here and there in this region are alkali spots, frequently alternating with 
alluvial patches, on the banks of rivers. An alkali spot is not considered a 
drawback to a cattle " run " — helps to fatten cattle — stranger cattle sometimes 
lick too much — swell and sicken to death — antidote is oil or fat — alkali spots 
should be avoided on dairy farms — alkali makes cows lose milk. Alkali is not 
found, however, to hinder the growth of cereals. When mellowed by cultiva- 
tion, alkali land in British Columbia produces very fine beets. In Eastern 
Oregon, and in Idaho, alkali lands, mostly covered with sage brush, have 
proved well adapted to raising grain. 

A Word to the intending Cattle Farmer. 

In districts grazed by large bands of cattle it is well to have summer and 
winter ranges. The grass thus gets time to recover. The lower lands, such 
•as terraces of valleys, make good winter ranges — wind blows snow away and 
leaves knolls, flats, and even great portions of the surface quite bare. Mountain 
ranges are cool in summer, and the cattle get some change of food by going to 
them, as altitude appears to change the quality of the grass. About 10 acres 
per head will feed a band of cattle throughout the year. 

It is not uncommon for men to buy cattle with their wages, and let them 
ii'un with their employers' herds. These cattle may be exempted from seizure 
for debt in certain cases, when the agreement to " farm " them is registered. 

A man may begin cattle-farming with a band of 25 or 30, a yoke of draught 
-oxen, neck-yoke, logging-chain, horse, saddle, axe, grindstone, and, of course, 
a supply of " gi'ub." 

A beginning on a considerable scale might be made with the following 
stock : — 

Dollars. , 

50 cows (with calves) at 40 dollars 2000 

.30 heifers, at 30 dollars 900 

20 yearlings, at 20 dollars 400 

Ibull 75 

3375 

Outgoings per annum would be (say; — 

Labour, 3 men, 2 at 25 dollars ) ^ ^^^ ^^^^^^.^ ^ ^^^^^^^ ^^200 

?J ?J 1 3) "^0 ,, ) 

Food for men 350 

Eent of leased land , 250 

Material, &c '. 300 

Total .. - 5175 ( = £1095) 



60 EAST CASCADE EEGION. 

The increase of stock -would begin at once, and be very rapid. 

It would be well to have also pigs, as they forage largely for themselves, 
and pork is in demand in a mining community. Interest of monej^ is not 
shown in the above. The owner's own labour should be thrown in to reduce 
the labour bill, and all money outgoings strictly watched. The farm should 
be as suitably placed as possible for markets. Its suitableness is increased 
when it has good natural boundaries; also when wild hay grows on or near it, 
and when it has good outdoor shelter — springs that do not freeze up — dry 
sleeping grounds, few slippery spots or water sloughs where cattle may injure 
themselves or be drowned. 

The cattle, if possible, should be those accustomed to the district or climate. 
Get an Indian to watch them, but help him yourself at first, particularly when 
other bands of cattle are passing the " run," or your young ones will stray — 
cattle take time to know one another and their " run." 

Having secured his "run" and his stock, the "stock-raiser," as the cattle 
farmer is called, then chops trees and prepares the framework for his 
steading — hauls them to the place — fixes a day for neighbours to help to put 
up the framework — at his leisure, afterwards covers in the roof — makes win- 
dows — daubs gaps — next he has his " corral," or cattle-fold to make — think 
well about this — much depends on a good, well-placed " corral." 

A word on winter food here also. It is common to say that no winter food 
for stock is necessary in the East Cascade Kegion. This is true to the fol- 
lowing extent. Generally speaking, if the grass has been spared during 
summer, there is enough for winter food, and the cattle can find it on the 
ground. A good stock-raiser, with a suitable "run" — brush shelter iu- 
parts — may not have to feed his whole band once in ten years. But bad 
winters occasionally come — 1862 was very bad, and so was 1872 — and, there- 
fore, it is said by experienced men, that a moderate supph', say I5 ton a 
head, that is, enough for six weeks' winter — should be provided and allowed 
to accumulate. Cattle may hurt themselves, or get sick. The stock-raiser 
should have the balance of chances in his favour. A good deal depends on the 
cattle. They will need little looking after, in summer or winter, if they are 
used to the climate and know the " run," the trails, springs, dry sleej)ing 
places, &c.* 

Bunch grass as it grows, is made by the hot sun and dry atmosphere into 
the best standing hay ; when irrigated it will yield alternate years 2 or 3 tons 
per acre of very fine hay ; alkali-grass cut in season makes good hay ; sower- 
grass, when newly grown after a fire, is prized by cattle ; fire will improve 
the aftergrowth of even sedge-grass ; pea-vine and red-top grass much liked — 
grow on moist, good soil, on high land generally (in West Cascade Kegion 
pea-vine seeks low land) ; pea-vine must be cut for hay early, or will go to 
powder ; in case of extreme need reindeer-moss, willow-sprigs, cotton-wood, 
and even ]3ine-tops will take cattle through a bad winter. The varied 
resources of such a country as British Columbia come out well by comparison. 
The winter of 1871-2 was the worst in America for forty years. The cattle 
in British Columbia came out in good condition in spring, though the farmers 
had not provided winter food as they might have done. In some of the 
Western States of the Union, the bodies of starved buffaloes and cattle lay- 
along the railways in great numbers. 

* ilemorandum by W. H. Kay, Esq. j 



EAST CASCADE EEGIOX. 61 

Newspaper Accounts. 

A correspondent of the ' Standard,' a Victoria newspaper, writes of the 
southern portion of the East Cascade Eegion as follows : — " Having travelled 
" twice through a large portion of the farming districts of British Columbia, I 
" am very strongly impressed with the great advantages the country offers to 
" any young man who may take unto himself a better half, and settle down in 
" any of those lovely green valleys, and there grow his own pork and beans, 
'' with none to make him afraid while watching his chuckle-headed calves 
" and big spotted steers bouncing over the hills. It is a fact that all the 
" country which I am about to mention is covered with abundance of bunch- 
" grass, pea- vine, and rye-grass, from 2 to 6 feet high. It is a pity that people 
'' who are looking for peaceful and prosperous homes, such as our Government 
" can offer, do not know more about the country. Upon each side of theJSTortli 
" and South Thompson Elvers, for miles above Kamloops Lake — 45 miles from 
" the trunk waggon-road — there are thousands of acres of good prairie-land, 
" with plenty of timber for building and fencing purposes. Here all kinds of 
" grain and vegetables can be raised simply by going to a little trouble in 
" irrigating. This can be done by raising water from the river with a wind- 
" mill attached to the top of a lofty fir-tree. There is quite strong enough 
" wind every day in the year for the purpose. Here passes a good waggon- 
" road leading from the trunk-road to what is known as the immense 
" Okanagan country. My pen fails me to do justice to it as a farming and 
" stock-raising country — plenty of fish in the lakes and rivers." 

Another gentleman writing in 1872 to the ' British Colonist ' (Victoria 
newspaper), after travelling by the coach from Cache Creek to Okanagan, 
says, " The country is for the most part open, dotted with trees, giving it 
" almost the appearance of an old country park. It is so free from wood as to 
" enable the horseman to canter at will in almost every direction, and in some 
" instances no obstructions are presented to the free progress of a carriage. 
" The face of the country is beautiful — relieved by ever changing succession 
'' of hill and dale. The water system is excellent, the surface of the country 
" being indented by numerous lakes and rivers or smaller streams, everywhere 
" teeming with fish of excellent quality. A mild climate will have already 
" been inferred. It may be added that snow seldom falls to any depth, and 
" never lies long. Horses, horned-cattle, and sheep pass the winter unhoused 
*' and uncared for, and, as a rule, come out in good condition in the spring. On 
" most of the grass ranges cattle shifting for themselves through winter are in 
" prime condition for beef in the spring. In the country thus roughly and very 
" imperfectly sketched, there are a few hundred settlers — we really do not 
*' know how many. In the valleys of the Thompson, Okanagan, and Cache 
*' Creek, there are about one hundred children. There is the making of 
" happy homes for tens of thousands. In truth no more desirable country 
" can be found, and it is not unreasonable to hope that the opening of a coach- 
" road leading through the heart of it, and the facilities for travel presented 
" by a weekly line of stages, may lead persons in search of homes to go and 
*' see for themselves." 

Healthiness for Cattle. 

The healthiness of British Columbia has already been stated to be a great 
characteristic. I said, at page 13, that the climate was good for " beast "' as 



62 EAST CASCADE EEGIOX. 

well as " man." I was not using liietoric in so speaking, but had in mind 
the immense advantage of healthy herds to the province, and to the North 
American Continent. Glance over the world. Europe is alarmed at the 
spread of virulent epizootics. The Steppes of Eussia are the seat of the rinder- 
pest. Cattle bred there, and fattened in Hungary and elsewhere, are widely 
distributed over Europe. They reach London by rail and steam-boat. In 
addition to the terrible rinderpest, the English farmer also has the " foot- 
and-mouth disease " to contend with. 

In the United States, the " Spanish Fever " or " Texas Cattle Disease " has' 
been long known and dreaded by owners of herds in Missouii and Kansas, and 
to some extent in Kentucky, Tennessee and Virginia. It became unusually 
serious in the track of Texas cattle beyond the Mississippi in 1867 and 1868. 
It broke out in Illinois in June, 1868. For a long time the Eastern States 
of the Union thought little of it, but when a new channel for the Texas cattle 
trade was opened, and the river steam-boats landed their living freight in the 
heart of the West, the ravages of the strange disease extended rapidly, carrying 
infection along the pathway of transportation to the seaboard, filling the public 
mind with alarm for the safety of farm stock, and even exciting apprehensions 
that the public health might become involved in the future progress of the 
disease. 

I here again call attention to what I believe is a fact, namely, that British 
Columbia is probably the healthiest country in the ivorld — -for man, for heast, 
for tree. 

Arable Farming in the East Cascade Region. 

As might be expected in a mountainous country, the quantity of obviousl}' 
attractive arable land is small, when compared with the whole area of the 
region. This is saying what might be said of Scotland, and other moun- 
tainous yet populous countries. The arable land in British Columbia is 
immense, compared with the present farming population. It is to be found 
principally in valleys of greater or less breadth bounded by hills. These 
valleys are so numerous that the total quantity of arable land mounts up to 
not a few acres. Every year shows us more land fit for tillage, and wherever 
the soil has been cultivated, it has been found highly productive. 1 have 
already said that irrigation is generally necessary in the East Cascade Eegion 
(see p. 57). Yery good, some say the best, grass, and also in several places, 
excellent soil are on the high lands and even mountain tops. In these places 
you descend from crops and pastures among the clouds, to sterile-looking hills 
and benches. 

Causes not yet quite understood seem to check here, in some degree, the ordi- 
nary effect of altitude upon farming. A good deal probably depends on 
aspect. The moist Pacific Ocean winds blowing inland above the surface 
winds may modify greatly the climate of the highlands. At all events the 
fact is, that any visitor to the province may see fine grass and good grain 
growing (of course with some risk) on Pavilion Mountain 4000 feet above the 
sea-level ; excellent grain growing and harvested, also cabbages, carrots, turnips, 
and potatoes, elsewhere at 2700 feet ; vegetables of all kinds and grain exube- 
rantly at 2000 feet. Jack Frost, it is true, comes occasionally, and his vagaries 
are noticeable, for instance potatoes have been cut off at 1200 feet, in one 
part sooner than at 2400 feet in a not distant part of the same district. The 



EAST CASCADE PvEGION". 63^ 

f 
Cliilcotin Plain or Plateau, averaging, it is said, 2000 to 2500 feet high, has 
heen free from frost, when valleys in the West Cascade Eegion, very mnch 
lower, have had everything cut off. Another peculiarity is that low bottoms^, 
in some places, are subject to night frosts, when the slopes that border them 
will be found to be free. 

The farmer must leave behind him preconceived notions, and go. to school 
again in some matters, with Dame Nature for his teacher. It is not an easy 
matter to select a farm where there are great differences of altitude within a 
few miles. We are, however, slowly learning more and more about the- 
country. It improves the more we know of it. 

The greater part of the southern portion of the East Cascade Pvegion (say 
the portion bet^veen the Eraser and Columbia Elvers, and bounded on the 
north by the Horsefly District, and on the south by the American Boundary* 
Line), is highly favoured, and has been proved hy practical farmers to be in 
many places good under irrigation, for tillage, and in most places unequalled 
for grazing. 

This region comprises the fine " Thompson country," so often referred tO' 
in the evidence before the English House of Commons Committee in 1857, 
upon the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs. 

The comparative absence of trees, and greater dryness of the atmosphere, strike 
the traveller at once, who, from the West Cascade Region, enters this portion of 
the East Cascade Eegion. In the best parts of the latter, there are rolling hills- 
and table-lands, sometimes stretching out for a great distance, diversified 
by green hillocks clothed above a certain height with trees, showing where 
moisture, descending as rain or snow, has been caught from the west winds.. 
The whole tract is well watered, in the intervals between the hills by stream- 
lets; in the level depressions by small lakes; while the groves and scattered 
trees afford a grateful shade by day, and a shelter by night. 

Experience of Practical Farmers in East Cascade Region. 

I will mention now, in a rough diary fashion, the portions of this region 
that have been tested hj practical farmers (see Map). 

Leaving the already described settlements of Sumass and Chilliwhack (see 
p. 52), the immigrant may go to Hope, and thence start eastward. Nico- 
iume valley thickly timbered ; Sumallow valley, superior land. On the Skagit 
the lands are described as beautiful and fertile, though shut in; mountains 
capped with snow ; the narrow valleys covered with the " finest bunch-grass 
that man ever saw ; " good bottom-land along the Skagit, and along the little 
winding streams flowing into it, " fringed with verdure." Before reaching 
Frinceton (1650 feet above sea-level) country becomes more open ; bunch- 
grass ; firs at intervals ; liglit soil ; good pasture ; little arable land ; a pastoral 
and mining district ; hot in summer ; sharp cold in winter ; little snow on 
the general surface, but occasionally quite deep on the mountains between 
Princeton and Hope ; periodically a severe winter ; 1872 was one. 

The entire country for 160 miles along the trail from Princeton, past 
Osoyoos, Eock Creek, and to the great prairie at the bend of Kettle Eiver, is 
almost free from timber, and abounds in food for cattle ; game abundant ; 
delightful " camping out " weather, generally, almost up to November ; gold 
indications everywhere. A trail somewhat over forty miles in length, branches 



64 EAST CASCADE REGION. 

off two miles below Princeton to the Okanagan Lake. There are many spots 
between the Similkameen Valley and Okanagan, specially favourable for 
farming. On some of these the snow never lies, however much may be 
around. 

Similkameen Valley. 

This valley extends fifty-five miles from Princeton to the frontier (see 
Map). Mountains bordering the river are granite, greenstone, and quartz, 
capped with blue and brown clay slate ; clay of slaty texture stained with 
iron ; small quantities of blue clay ; bed of river filled with boulders of granite, 
greenstone, and trap of all sizes ; fordable except during freshets, and then it 
rises very rapidly ; grass very good ; timber scarce ; sharp bends of river 
generally well wooded ; underbrush of willow and wild cherry ; near base of 
mountains sufficient timber for settlers ; soil somewhat sandy and light ; free 
from stones, and generally excellent for either grazing or farming ; drj^- in 
summer ; irrigation necessary ; many large portions already well watered by 
streams from the mountains, with fall sufficient to facilitate any further irriga- 
tion found necessary ; grass most luxuriant, also, on the little tributary streams. 
Valley very picturesque. " Similkameen beef" is talked of as Englishmen talk 
of " Southdown mutton." A settler introduced a Durham bull in 1872, which 
cost him 1000 dollars (2007. English) : another wrote lately, " We have a 
" good mining and good farming district and one of the best stock-ranges on 
^' the Pacific coast : numbers of cattle, horses, sheep, and pigs. The Indians 
" go into farming ; quite quiet ; keep cats." 

It is unfortunate that this fine Similkameen district has not an easier 
western outlet in the direction of the New Westminster district, but such an 
outlet possibly may yet be found. (See Mr. Fannin's report in Appendix.) 

Osoyoos Lake. 

Close to the boundary line — connected with Okanagan Lake by a chain of 
lakes and rivers. Open land between Osoyoos and Boundary Creek (see Map). 
Famous Rock Creek diggings were in this neighbourhood, and no doubt all this 
-country will be again worked by miners. Good cattle-grazing country ; last 
Eeports before me dated autumn, 1872 ; grain and all kinds of vegetation 
looking splendid, and cattle in fine condition. One settler had 200 fat steers 
to sell. A hurricane on the lake ; broke a bridge ; dismantled haystacks. 
Mosquitoes troublesome. Trade with Indians good; they seemed to have 
plenty of money. 

With the exception of a few miles, the entire road from Rock Creek to the 
great prairie at the head of Kettle Kiver is, as already said, through a fine 
rolling prairie country, thinly wooded, and abounding in bunch grass. Gold 
and Selkirk ranges then intervene. Fort Shepherd is a wild barren spot — 
rough trail thence over the " divide " between Columbia and Kootenay rivers 
to the Kootenay Valley (south from Kootenay Lake) ; river broad and sluggish ; 
portion of valley quite level ; rich alluvial soil as on Pitt River (New West- 
minster district) ; overflowed probably ; swamp grass ; rich vegetation ; going 
still east up the Mooyie River to the lake, there is thick timber — Purcell range 
intervenes — beyond this range country opens out ; thirty or forty miles farther, 
the traveller reaches the Kootenay again ; grand scenery approaching the Rocky 
Mountains. 



EAST CASCADE KEGION. 65 

Kootenay. 

In the arid south-east angle of the province among the flanking ridges of the 
Eocky range ; a well-known and promising mining region (see " Mines "). 

Farming land — principally on alluvial bottoms — lies along Kootenay Kiver 
and the head waters of the Columbia, say for about 200 miles long and 5 miles 
wide ; good grass ; timber and water privileges ; heat and cold rather extreme 
(for British Columbia) — November 14th, 1872, six inches snow on the ground — 
November 19th, 1874, one foot snow ; facilities for irrigation favourable ; 
capabilities of the soil are becoming known after trial. 

Wild Horse Creek — fine dairy farm — good stock, grain, and vegetables. 

Joseph's Prairie — the same — Columbia lakes the same. At the Columbia, a 
fine farm of 5000 acres, rented for grazing ; believed to be good arable— along 
the streams fiowing by the side of mountains crowned with perpetual 
snow in this district, almost all kinds of vegetables can be grown ; quality 
excellent, particularly the potatoes. Every Chinaman has a vegetable patch. 
What is produced finds ready sale in the mining camps. Cattle at present 
in this district: 1200 head of stock and beef; 155 cows; 5 bullocks used 
every week ; resident white men, 85 ; Chinamen, 200 (own 25 cows) ; 
Indians, 300 (own 30 cows) ; people generally orderly and contented ; hopeful 
as regards their future ; a number of persons taking up land for settlement; 
a water-power sawmill in course of construction. The Kootenay, Osoyoos, and 
Similkameen settlers sent lately 23? dollars to the Royal Columbia Hospital at 
New Westminster. 

Much trade done at present between Kootenay and the American town of 
Walla Walla (408 miles from Wild Horse Creek). Pack trains came in 
also from Montana Territory. Wages in Kootenay 3 to 5 dollars (12s. to 20s. 
English) per day : prices as follows : — Flour in 1874, 7 cents (S^d. English) 
per lb. ; beef on the block, 8 to 10 cents (id. to 5d. English) per lb. ; sugar, 
25 cents (Is. O^d. English); tea, 1^ dollar (6s. English) per lb.; bacon and 
hams, 40 to 50 cents (Is. 8d. to 2s. English) per lb. ; potatoes, cabbages, 
turnips, 4 to 6 cents (2c?. to 3c?. English) per lb. ; beans, 33 cents (Is. Hd. 
English) per lb. 

The Roman Catholic Bishop of Oregon considers that the country about 
the sources of the Columbia River is of great prospective importance. It 
is divided into forest and prairie in proportions favourable for settlement ; 
mining resources undoubted ; birch, pine, " cedar and cypress " prevail ; climate 
delightful ; snow goes generally as it falls ; a most desirable country, need- 
ing people only and road communications. Stock-owners now drive cattle to 
winter in neighbourhood of Columbia River lakes — will by-and-by be reached 
from the north, probably more easily than by the road from Hope which I 
have described. 

Many prefer the climate of this section to the climate even at Victoria, 
Vancouver Island. 

A Question put here to the Reader. 

Before going further, I ask the reader whether this is a country to repel a 
settler from, looking merely to the strip of the province already described, 
namely, Vancouver Island, New Westminster District, and the country south 
of a line from Hope to the Eastern Boundary Line ? 



66 EAST CASCADE REGION. 

The weird, uncommon, gigantic features of tlie country, the grand scale on 
which its scenery and natural products are presented to the eye, make men 
at first feel dwarfed, discouraged; but there are great sources of national 
wealth in a territory with such a situation, with such harbours, climate, 
soil, and minerals. Much has to be overcome, but the future is certain. 



Okanagan Country. 

Very fine stock country, and will also produce grain; yields fall-wheat 
only without irrigation ; spring wheat li to I5 tons per acre, with irrigation ; 
also profusely oats, barley, Indian corn, potatoes, tomatoes, musk-melons, 
water-melons, [grapevine, tobacco. Summer warm, has shown 98° in the 
shade ; cold is sharp in winter, but weather clear and sunny, snow seldom 
deep, and never lies long ; cattle, horses, and sheep, as a rule, unhoused in 
Avinter ; moderate preparation, however, recommended. 

The lake, 70 miles long by 1^ mile wide : country to the east of it a 
fair sample of the best districts between Rocky and Cascade Eanges ; open, 
grassy hills, dotted with trees like English parks, successive hills and dales ; 
lakes, ponds, and streams full of fish ; soil much the same general character 
as the Similkaraeen ; rich sandy loam, substratum of clay in some valleys ; 
stretches of " bottom " land ; some alkali patches ; settlers coming in fast 
and taking up land since Canadian Pacific Eailway survey began. Those who 
would have " sold out" a year ago are now tilling and improving their land. 
It is said that in Okanagan and adjoining districts, there is room for a farming 
population of 10,000 souls (allowing 160 acres for nine persons). Eoman 
Catholic mission-post (1100 feet above sea-level) on the east side of the lake ; 
fine country behind it. On the west side of the lake, a little distance back, 
runs a low mountain range, from which detached spurs press upon the lake, 
and rise above the water in precipitous bluffs ; excellent pasture, particularly 
on small spits jutting into the lake. The Cherry Creek Silver Mine has been 
abandoned for the present. 

Near the north end of the lake is an Indian reserve of very choice land. 

Kamloops-Sliiiswap District. 

Let ITS ent^r the district from the east. Columbia River is 44 miles from 
Shuswap Lake, via Eagle Pass. Three Valley Lake (altitude 1912 feet) is 
a.bout 34 miles from Shuswap Lake. Directly south from Three Valley Lake 
is a long, wide, grassy valley, which leads across a low " divide " to the head- 
waters of the Shuswap or Spillemeechene River. This is a gentle river flowing 
through a large valley, much of which has clay subsoil ; fine fall-wheat 
without irrigation ; very good and heavy crops here ; only about half-a-dozeu 
energetic settlers ; large farm-buildings ; well fenced fields; Indians at work 
on farms ; fine bunch-grass on the high land, round which the river makes a 
southern bend. 

A farmer on the Shuswap Prairie thrashed out 80 tons of wheat in 1872 ; two 
other farmers 40 tons each. Prices here of very superior extra flour, 12 dollars 
(48s. English) per barrel of 196 lbs. ; choice bacon, 25 cents (Is. O^d. English^^ 
per lb. ; juicy beef 10 cents (5d. English) per lb. 

Leaving the Shuswap or Spillemeechene River at a point, yay beyond 



EAST CASCADE EEGIOX. 67 

where Cherry Creek joins it, there is between that point and the head of the 
Okanagan Lake a district of open prairie and sparsely timbered land, 
abounding in rich pasturage and dotted with a few farming settlements. 

From the head of Okanagan Lake to the Thompson Fdver (south branch) 
is about 45 miles north-west. Leaving the open, rolling, bunch-grass valleys 
of Okanagan, you first ascend for about 20 miles through timber land ; reach 
Grand Prairie — fine soil, luxuriant bunch-grass, dotted with cattle ; the prairit, 
16 miles by 2 miles, bounded by hills ; a river between ; elevation (1450 feet) 
causes some danger from night frost. Grrand Prairie to Thompson Paver — 
glittering stream through valley, bordered by alders and willows, green mea- 
dows, clumps of trees, small lakes ; good soil ready for cultivation. 

From the nearest point at which you strike the South Thompson Paver 
down to its meeting (tbrks) with its north branch is 16 miles of open grass 
coimtry. At the junction stands Kamloops, a few miles from the head of 
Kamloops Lake — 25 miles long — (see Map) ; rolling prairie land, with fine 
grass, and also some fertile valleys on southern bank of lake. 

There is an open, or lightly timbered bunch-gTass country along the banks 
of the North Thompson River, and north of Kamloops Lake, for 130 miles. 

Several English gentlemen from the American side have taken a prairie of 
2000 acres on the North Thompson, a short distance from Kamloops, and are 
making a long ditch for irrigation. 

In 1871 the yield of gi-ain on the Tranquille and north and south branches 
of the Thompson Eiver was a million and a quarter pounds. 

The whole Kamloops-Shuswap district is a district of table-land, with 
considerable depressions — abundant j)asture, generally free from forests, and 
only interspersed with timber ; summer climate dry, great heat ; winter fre- 
quently very cold for a day or two, but on the whole not very sharp ; snow 
generally lies a short time only ; cattle are driven here to winter in severe 
seasons; Hudson's Bay Company used to "winter out" 500 horses here, 
including brood mares and young horses. This district will doubtless be- 
come known again as a mineral district. The first gold found in quantity by 
the natives was found in this district, and fair wages are still made on the 
Thompson River. The Thompson, near its mouth, is too full, rapid, and 
rocky for mining. 

Kamloops itself is likely to be a distributing centre for the fine country 
around it, even if the Canadian Pacific Railway does not come to help the 
infant city ; schools, visiting clergymen, three fine stores aheady, three hotels, 
two blacksmiths' shops, &c. Hudson's Bay Company building a store (60 by 
40 feet), and going to keep more goods than hitherto ; sawmill 20 miles up 
the north branch of the Thompson ; good grist-mill, generally busy, on the 
Tranquille (flows from north into Kamloops Lake) ; the Tranquille Mill grinds 
a good deal for the North and South Thompson districts, and also portion of 
the Okanagan country. In 1872 wheat was sold for 2 to 2 j cents per lb. (Id. 
io lie?. English), delivered to merchants at Kamloops or to the Tranquille 
Mill. The higher price was towards the end of the year, and arose partly 
from the requirements of the Canadian Railwa}^ survey. 

Nicola Country. 

Directly south from Kamloops, 30 miles, is Nicola Lake (see l\%p). 
The road at present from Kamloops is a sort of natural trail over gently uudu- 



68 EAST CASCADE EEGION. 

lating but high open country, -u-ith fine grass. First few miles no herbage ; 
many ravmes. At the first height turn and survey the magnificent scenery 
of the Thompson Eiver valleys ; will give some idea of the grazing resources 
of the province. Can bring a waggon with light load across from Kamloops 
to Nicola Lake, if you take a guide, an axe, and a spade. 

Nicola Lake is reached also from Lytton, which is on the trunk waggon- 
road (see Map). The post comes in from Lytton. 

The road in this direction will doubtless be improved. At present, going 
from Lytton to Nicola Lake, you first skirt and look down on Thompson 
River. 

Eleven miles on, at a break in valley, is a waterfall ; diverge ; steep mountain- 
trail 12 miles ; strike Nicola River, whence 40 miles to the lake. First part of 
river unattractive ; wild sage bushes ; hot sand in summer; rattlesnakes (some 
say). River winds through masses of alder and willow ; by-and-by plains 
dotted with pines ; fine land ; a few settlers. Rich sheltered bottoms, where 
the peach, castor-oil plant, sweet almond, will grow, and fine meadow-grass, 
grain, and root-crops ; grassy hills, good for cows. Provincial Exhibition 
prize for cheese came to this district. Irrigate from river water; land 
in valley heavy black loam ; no stones nor gravel near surface ; " red pine " 
on the mountains. Coal, it is said, has been found in the Nicola district. 

Nicola Lake, thus reached either from Lytton or Kamloops, is in a fine 
district ; climate dry and warm in summer ; warm rains April and May, and 
again August and September. Have to irrigate ; can grow finest wheat, oats, 
barley, broom corn, and vegetables — one experienced settler says better pro- 
duce than in " Vancouver Island or Oregon ;" tobacco, tomatoes, and melons 
mature well. Winters mild ; two months cold clear weather, with snow. 
South winds melt snow and leave ground bare for weeks. Thirty-six settlers — 
seven ladies — two wives coming from Scotland. Round the lake open prairie ; 
bunch grass. Year-old steer of 600 lbs. (dressed). Seldom have to feed cattle on 
hay. On 2nd March, 1872, after a bad winter, cattle fat ; grass green on hill- 
sides, spring birds and wild ducks back to their haunts. Good land round the 
lake occupied, but room in the neighbourhood. Milk cows scarce ; a few gentle 
cows for sale at 65 to 75 dollars (13Z. to 15Z. English) ; plenty of cattle, but 
young breeding stock dear. Beautiful sheep-farm a mile from lake; level' 
plain, river on one side ; sloping heights to the north, running parallel to the 
river. About 2000 sheep ; do well. 

A correspondent, " Observer," in the ' British Colonist,' Victoria, of 28th No- 
vember, 1871, says : — " I predict a prosperous future to all who obtain a footing 

in this most delightful valley It is a fact that all kinds of animals will 

" not only thrive by what they can procure for themselves, but will keep fat, 
" so great is the quantity of vegetation and so moderate the climate." 

East side of Nicola Lake, up river 10 miles, fine valley; home for fifty 
families, at least. Open prairie along the river ; very good land, easily irri- 
gated ; timber scarce, except close to river; "pine" on mountains seven or 
eight miles back. As far as the eye can see, a beautiful prairie of grass. 



Hope, Yale, and Lytton. 

Hope, 95 miles from mouth of Eraser River, was formerly an active little 
place, but the gold-bearing Similkameen country, to the east, having been 



EAST CASCADE KEGION. - 69 

neglected, owing to the greater attractions of Cariboo, Hope has not thriven as 
was expected, though it again shows signs of life. The silver mines (which 
are likely to be worked near Hope) will tend to increase its importance, 
which, prospectively, must always be considerable, as Hope is the natural 
outlet to the Fraser River from the fine farming and mining country of the 
Similkameen. 

Tale, the head of navigation on Fraser River, 110 miles from its mouth, is a 
most picturesque and thriving little town, situated in a narrow gorge of striking 
grandeur. Large quantities of goods and not a few passengers pass through it 
<iaily, in the summer, to the upper country. The Fraser River " bars," near 
this town, yielded a large quantity of gold in 1858, and have since been re- 
worked to advantage. 

Forty-three miles above Yale the aspect of the country completely changes. 
The underbrush and cedars are left behind ; there is much less moss upon the 
trees ; shrubs begin to appear which belong to a drier climate. Here also begin 
the peculiar " benches " or terraces which mark the course of the Fraser River 
and its tributaries (see page 10). On one of these fiats, 200 feet above the 
stream, is the town of Lytton, named after Lord Lytton. Lytton is situated 
at the junction of the Thompson with the Fraser, 43 miles below Lillooet and 
57 miles above Yale. It is a pretty town, already something more than a 
wayside town. The population is increasing, owing to mines and farms in its 
neighbourhood. The wheat ground at the Lytton mill makes very fine flour. 
There is a good market for all produce. In the upper part of the town there 
are a school, two butcher-shops, two hotels, two livery-stables, three shops 
two bakers, a sawmill, blacksmith, and shoemaker. In the lower part of the 
town, which is chiefly inhabited by Chinese, there are four bakers, five shops, 
four restaurants. 

Lillooet- Clinton District. 

Including Cache Creek, Bonaparte, also Williams Lake, and up to 
QuESNEL Mouth. 

The whole district is a very fine one, and at present shows what can be done 
by applying capital to the soil. It is farther to the north and generally more 
elevated than some sections already described. The risk to crops from summer 
night frosts may be said to be very considerable in the entire country on the 
waggon-road north of Pavilion Mountain, unless farms have a south aspect or 
are protected from north blasts. The remark applies, of course, more particu- 
larly to farms further north than Alexandria. 

It is safe to have some winter provision for stock in much of the country 
through which the trunk- waggon road from Yale runs. The eff'ect, however, of 
the above danger is merely to add somewhat to the amount of capital required 
in agriculture. Farming in this district is the direct child of the Cariboo 
mining region, and farmers with a market at their doors (which for seme 
articles the waggon-road gives them), can afford risks that are not excessive. 
That the risks under the circumstances are not considered excessive is proved 
by the extension of farming every year in the district by men of capital. The 
extent to which this will take place will depend on the continued success of 
the Cariboo mines, or other mines that can be conveniently supplied from this 
district. 



70 EAST CASCADE EEGION. 

The surface in so large a section of country is, of course, varied. It embraces 
within its area fertile river-benches (terraces), table-lands, large open valleys, 
immense plains, and green rolling hills. 

The country near the Thompson, Bonaparte, and Hat rivers is very attrac- 
tive to the eye ; miles of green hills, crowning slopes, and level meadows ; 
hardly a bush or tree ; tine grass almost to the hill-tops. The climate very 
healthful and enjoyable ; rather a want of timber in parts, also of rain gene- 
rally, but there are many streams. 

For grazing, the country cannot be sui-passed, and its agricultural capa- 
bilities, so far as the soil is concerned, are in many parts very good. At Cache 
Creek and on the Bonaparte there is excellent arable land. The country 
through which the waggon-road passes to Williams Lake has some very good 
soil, with no more timber than is needed for farming pm-poses. The farming 
land is bounded by low hills, beyond which there are prairies and valleys. 
These hills are undulating and brightly green, and their grassy carpet is daisied 
over with countless wild flowers. 

The road occasionally crosses some fresh mountain-stream, whose cool clear 
waters invite the traveller to drink ; now it winds by the bank of a lovely lake, 
in whose glassy depths the trees and shrubs along the margin seem to con- 
template their own symmetry and face. The summer frosts, however, as 
above said, are rather against crop-farming in this section, except on farms 
favourably situated; but the frosts do not come regularly, nor -with equal 
severity. 

The great trunk-waggon road of the province goes through the district, and 
the farmers produce food for horses and mules largely, in addition to the flomv 
bacon, &c., required for the mining towns in Cariboo. The visitor here sees 
irrigation-flumes (water-com'ses) of great length, gang-ploughs, and thrashing- 
machines ; also several saw-mills, bacon and ham factories, and three flour- 
mills, which latter cost 60,000 dollars (12,000/. English). The farmers them- 
selves, to start one flour-mill, subscribed 8000 dollars (16007. English). There 
is a Farmers' Society at Clinton — the Northern British Columbia Agricultural 
Society. I believe there are in the Lillooet district about 12,000 horned cattle. 
5000 sheep, 4000 pigs, and 400 horses. The average annual yield for the last 
five years has been about three million and a half pounds of wheat, with a large 
yield of other cereals, and beans, peas, onions, potatoes, &c. The above is not 
much to speak of; but it must be remembered that the supply has been limited 
by the demand. These farming facts conclusively show the agricultural capa- 
bilities of the province, even in a section of it which in parts is liable to occa- 
sional summer frosts. Let but mining towns grow, or let a railway be made 
(as it will be soon) to carry surplus produce to a shipping port, and it ^vill be 
seen that the agricultural capabilities of even the northern portion of the East 
Cascade region of British Columbia are very great. 

I give in the Appendix abridged extracts from newspaper correspondence 
from this section during a whole year. 



What has been described in the foregoing. 

/ have now described all the portions of British Columhia luliicli have, 'been 
tested up to this time hj practiced farmers. 



MAPwKETS. 71 



Cliilcotiii, &c. 

This is the country on either side of the river of that name (see Map). In 
is bounded on the west side by the Eange, called by some the " Cascade " and 
by others the " Coast " range (see page 47) and on. the east by Fraser Eiver. 
Chilcotin has not yet been thoroughly tested by fanners, but the country 
is attracting attention. 

We have different accounts of it from travellers. The probability is that a 
good deal of the Chilcotin coimtry is arid and sandy, vith poor timber. 

Its area, however, is immense, and may include also great tracts of good 
grazing land. Is ear its numerous rivers and lakes we might expect to find 
superior arable land. The surface is open in parts, and timbered in others, 
generally presenting either rolling prairies or forest table-lands. There are 
many lakes and rivers, and a great valley through which the Chilcotin flows. 
The average elevation of the district is considerable, say 2500 feet ; but the 
altitude of the surface varies considerably. I have already stated that the 
highest point of the trail, from Bentinck arm, is 3500 to 4000 feet high. 
From that summit on the plateau, looking west, you see the Cascade Eange ; 
to the south, lonely massive heights ; to the east, an expanse of forest, broken 
by lakes and marshes. Eeindeer are numerous on the great mountain plateau 
near the head of the Chilcotin Eiver. 

Soil probably light on the high land, and rich near some of the rivers and lakes. 

Climate hot in summer, and very sharp in winter ; the slox^es opposite 
depressions in the Cascade Eange, probably will be found the most suitable 
for crops, as far as climate is concerned. 

Another large section of the province, east of the Cascade Eange, is not 
much known yet, namely, the section extending to a great distance north 
and west from the elbow which the Fraser Eiver makes to get round the 
Cariboo Mountains. Some part of this countiy has been described in my 
account of the jSTasse-Skena district. (See West Cascade Eegion.) 

Hudson's Bay Company officers describe this northern region as a hunting 
and mining region, containing, however, large tracts of good pasture ; pro- 
bably a good deal of winter fodder for cattle would be required here. 

"Wheat has been raised at Fort George (but was liable to night frost nips) ; 
barley and vegetables at Fraser's Lake; potatoes on the lake slopes iit 
Stewart's Lake (the hollows are liable to night frost). Humming-bird 
common at Stewart's Lake in summer. 

A fine country is also spoken of as existing " between Fort St. Jame:j and 
Xation Eiver ; " good land also between Babine and the " forks" of the Skena. 
On the whole, though much of the above section of the coimtry north and west 
from the great elbow of the Fraser is known to be mountainous and swampy, 
it probably is as habitable as some inhabited countries of iSTorthem Europe. 

Under the stimulus of a demand for stock or produce, such as mining- 
camps would produce, the district doubtless would show considerable even 
farming results. 

Markets. 

A word or two will explain the existing provincial markets for farm pro- 
duce. Victoria and Cariboo are the chief markets at present for surplus 



72 MARKETS. 

stock or produce not wanted in the farmers' own locality. A farming emi- 
grant must consider this in choosing his " location." 

The Island District, also New Westminster District (after the latter has 
supplied the town of New Westminster, and to some extent the towns of 
Hope and Yale), also the Similkameen District, may be said to look largely 
to the Victoria market. Okanagan, Nicola, and Lillooet settlers would look 
jmrtly to the Victoria market as an outlet for stock, but the roads have 
until lately hardly enabled them to reach it. 

Osoyoos and Kootenay consume most of their own produce at present. 

It is said that Victoria imports butter from the eastern provinces of Canada, 
and buys 15,000Z. worth of beef-cattle every year from the American territory 
opposite to Vancouver Island, but this import of meat supplies should 
diminish with the improvement of roads in the province enabling the provincial 
farmers to supply their own markets. 

Settlers in all other parts of the country than those named above, depend 
mainly for markets on the gold-mining localities of Cariboo, Kootenay, 
Cassiar, &c. The consuming power of a mining-camp of hard-working 
gold-miners, is probably equal at least to that of a town with four or five 
times the number of inhabitants, composed of both sexes, and young and 
old. 

The settler will see on the map the position of these chief consuming centres 
namely, Victoria and Cariboo. 

In choosing his " location " the settler further will look to the future. He 
will consider where it is reasonably likely that gold, coal, or silver mining 
land may be discovered, or where any other industry, such as cattle or sheep 
farming, or fishing, or saw-milling is likely to concentrate population. 

For instance, think of the industries and occupations radiating from Cariboo 
— the mining heart of the mainland — consider the unsupplied demand for beef, 
butter, &c., in commercial Victoria, or reflect upon what King Coal has done 
at Nanaimo. A single coal-mine in full work appears to be worth an addi- 
tion of at least 1500 to the population, probably more, if one considers the 
workmen and their families, the trades they support, the visitors in vessels, 
the farming districts which supply the mining neighbourhood with meat and 
vegetables. If the other coal mines now being opened on the east coast of 
the island begin work vigorously, and a demand continues for the fine sand- 
stone from the Newcastle Quarry, the east coast island farmers will have a 
home market for whatever they produce, increasing beyond their power to 
supply it, and Victoria must continue to look to the New Westminster district, 
or elsewhere, for her requirements. In the latter district, however, we find 
already a considerable town, flourishing saw-mills, and promising fisheries. 
If, additionally, the silver mines near Hope should be worked, the New West- 
minster district farmers themselves will have a home demand which they 
]nay not be able fully to supply. These probabilities show to the emigrant 
the advantages of settling in a mineral country, and particularly in a country 
with such varied mineral and other resources as British Columbia. So far as 
the first settlers are concerned, the comparative scarceness of attractive ac- 
cessible tillage land is in their favour, for the land will be high-priced in 
course of time, in proportion to its scarcity. 

Particularly at this time, the settler, in choosing a " loca,tion," must have 
regard to the effect of the making of the Canadian Pacific Eailway through 



J 



CANADIAN PACIFIC EAILWAY. /o 

the province. The local demand for farm produce in British Columbia will 
be largely increased at the places where the work of making the railway is 
actively progressing, and the opening of the line will provide new outlets for 
farm produce generally. 

If more farms are not started in British Columbia, the demand created by 
the making of the railway will benefit Oregon and California, instead of 
British Columbia. The temporary presence of the Canadian Eailway sur- 
veyors in 1872 raised wheat one-fourth of a cent a pound in the Kamloops- 
Shuswap district. 

There is no reason why the markets of China and England should not be 
used for the surplus grain of British Columbia, as soon as the farming popu- 
lation is increased in number, and systematic works of irrigation and recla- 
mation aid and enable them to produce a surplus. 

As regards cattle, it will be some time before the cattle-farmer will have to 
look for markets outside the province. I may point out, however, that when 
the Canadian Pacific Railway is finished, British Columbia will be to England 
the nearest extensive grazing country, capable of rearing great herds of 
cattle chiefly on natural grasses. Central Canada will not be able to compete 
in cattle rearing with her more western sister territory, owing to the long 
keen winter and want of shelter. Central Canada for wheat ; British Co- 
lumbia for beef and mutton. British Columbia will be nearer to England 
than the River Plate or Texas, and is a finer and healthier grazing country 
than either. (See p. 62.) 

Canadian Pacific Railway. 

The only completed railway across the continent of North America is the 
Union and the Central Pacific, which connect Omaha with San Francisco (both 
these places are in the United States) ; but several other lines are projected. 
The principal one of these is the Canadian Pacific, through British territory, 
which has been commenced in 1875. This railway will connect the present 
railway system of Canada with a seaport in British Columbia on the shore 
of the Pacific Ocean. It will bring British Columbia within about a fort- 
night's travel from England. The Canadian Pacific railway line has ex- 
traordinary advantages over all other existing or proposed trans-continental 
railways in shortness, and in conditions of climate and description of country 
to be traversed. Under proper management it cannot fail to be a sound 
investment, while opening the brightest future to British Columbia, to the 
Dominion of Canada, and to the Empire. 

The Canadian line will shorten the passage between Liverpool and China, 
in direct distance, more than 1000 miles. The sea-trips from its ends on 
both oceans will be much shorter than from the ends of the existing American 
line. The North American Continent also can be spanned by a much shorter 
line on Canadian soil than by the existing railway through the United States. 

The distance from New York to San Francisco by the Union Pacific 
Railway is 3363 miles ; but from Montreal to New Westminster it is only 
2730, or 636 miles in favour of the Canadian line. The distance by the 
Canadian Pacific from New Westminster, British Columbia, to New York (by 
St. Lawrence and Ottawa, Ogdensburg and Rome, and New York Central) 
is 305 miles shorter than from San Francisco to New York (by the Union 



74 MINING. 

Pacific, Miekigan Central, and New York Central). To Boston, the difference 
in favour of the Canadian inter-oceanic route is 335 miles. To Portland, the 
difference in favour of the Canadian route is 521 miles. 

There can be little doubt that Europe, and particularly England, will derive 
vast benefit from the extended cultivation of the rich lands through which the 
Canadian Pacific Eailway will pass. These lauds, it is quite well known, con- 
tain the best imoccupied wheat-growing tracts in North America, and are very 
extensive. The comparative lowness of the surface, makes the climate on the 
Canadian route^ though farther to the north, less severe than the climate on 
the existing raihvay in the United States. 

The Government of the Dominion of Canada was bound by the terms of 
imion with British Columbia to begin theconstructionof this line within British 
Columbia before July, 1873, and to complete it before ten years, so as to con- 
nect the Pacific seaboard with the Eastern Canada railway system. Some 
delay occurred, but the Dominion Government have lately set to work in 
earnest. The railway is begun and its construction will be pushed on. 

More direct railway communication with Eastern Canada will supply the 
great want under which the province has laboured ; but long before the line 
shall have been completed British Columbia will have derived benefits of the 
most substantial character from the work of construction alone, and the 
Canadian Pacific Eailway will prove in many ways one of the most active and 
efficient agencies in adding to the j)opulation of the province. 

Mining, generally.* 

A large proportion of the population is engaged in mining for gold, coal, and 
silver. Iron, copper, lead, and almost every other mineral, includin--- rare 
minerals, such as molybdenum, &c., are found ; also lime, marble, freestone, 
slate, &c. The whole country, in fact, is full of minerals and building material 
of a high character. Gold-mining is, at present, the largest wage-affording 
industry ; coal comes next ; silver promises well. The best known gold and 
silver fields are on the mainland; the largest known good coalfield is in 
Vancouver Island. 

The laws relating to mining generally are designed to be liberal and 
encouraging. 

The conntrj' is difficult to traverse^ and the search' for minerals has been 
conducted hitherto by extraordinary efforts on the part of individuals and 
small companies. The Dominion Geological Survey, now in progress, will furnish 
information that will enable "prospectors" to search with better judgment and 
happier results. Every one "believes that fresh discoveries must follow the 
beginning of the works of construction of the Canadian Pacific Eailway, which 
will run through the province. 

The intending settler will know how to estimate the importance of settling 
in a mineral country. The interests of all classes are common, and whatever 
adds to the number of consumers specially benefits the farming settler, whether 
these settlers are engaged in mining, trading, or any other occupation. 

In a great undeveloped mining country, or a country in which extensive 
railway works are undertaken, the farming interest should always be in 

* Under this aud other heads, I am indebted for infoiinatioa to the Honourable C. Good's 
memorandum. 



MINING, 75^ 

advance of actual needs, otherwise any additional demand created by new- 
mines, or by vigorous prosecution of wage-paying work of any sort, could 
not be met, and, as a consequence, the benefit would go out of the country to 
help any other country that could supply the demand. 



Gold Mining. 

It will not be expected that, in this handbook, I should give an account of 
the numerous regulations respecting so special an industry as gold-mining. 

The mining camps of British Columbia are as orderly as English villages. 
Gold claims are taken up anywhere on payment of 5 dollars (20s. English) per 
annum. A 25-dollar (5/. English) licence secures a miner in his rights. JSTo 
further tax is levied. The nature and size of British Columbia gold claims arc 
as follows : — 

For " Bar diggings," a strip of land, 100 feet wide at high- water mark, and 
thence extending into the river to its lowest water-level. 

For " Dry diggings," 100 feet square. 

" Creek claims," 100 feet long, measured in the direction of the general 
course of the stream, and extending in width from base to base of the hill on 
each side. 

" Bench claims," 100 feet square. 

" Quartz claims," 150 feet in length, measured along the lode or vein, with 
power to follow the lode or vein, and its spurs, dips, and angles, anywhere on 
or below the surface included between the two extremities of such length of 
150 feet. 

When a creek has " prospected " well for gold, it is usual for miners to form 
themselves into companies of from four to eight, or upwards, to take up their 
claims in proximity to one another, and to w^ork the w^hole ground thus claimed 
for the benefit of the company. If rich " pay-dirt " be struck, and the mine 
be in a sufficiently advanced state, companies, anxious to obtain the greatest 
possible quantity of gold in the shortest possible S]3ace of time, will frequently 
employ additional working-hands, and work during the whole 24 hours. 

These hired men often get high wages. Usual wages at Cariboo are as 
follows : — 

Carpenter . . . . 7 dollars (28s. English) per day. 
Foreman .. ..6 „ (24s. „ ) „ 
Workman .. ..5 „ (20s. „ ) „ 
Chinaman ,. .. 3i ,, (14s. ,, ) „ 

The reader will remember that the mining season does not last the wdiole 
year. 

The gold-bearing districts extend over several thousand miles of countrj- 
(see Map). Indications of gold are also found generally in Vancouver and 
Queen Charlotte Islands ; but very good paying diggings have not yet been 
found there. 

Within twelve years nearly five millions sterling w^orth of gold have been 
exported, and unless common and scientific opinion is entirely wrong, the gold- 
fields of the province have hardly yet been touched. In various spots, dis- 
covered by chance, gold-miners have collected. These spots, generally, have 
been so remote, that the necessaries of life have been very dear; and in 



76 MINING. 

consequence, diggings that yielded 3 to 5 dollars (12s. to 20s. English) per 
day, have not been considered attractive. 

The conditions of gold-mining, however, have changed of late years in 
several important respects. The steady improvement of communications and 
the growth of farming settlements in the interior have reduced the price of 
necessaries at the diggings. The miners themselves have long ago given up 
fancy-mining, and come down to economy and hard work. It would be too 
much to say that the shallow diggings in British Columbia are worked out as 
those of California and Australia have long been, but it is true that ia several 
important gold-fields the more easily worked places have been exhausted. 

This is a very different thing from the exhaustion of the gold-fields. It is 
simply saying that in those particular places in British Columbia, a stage has 
been reached which was reached long ago in California and Australia. 

The deep channels and beds of streams must now be examined, and are 
being examined. The era of real " gold-digging " is about to follow the era of 
mere " gold-lifting." A different kind of mining is being adopted — deep 
mining, with more machinery, and consequently larger expense. 

' Cariboo. 

The last Cariboo season was not so good for the mass of miners as many 
previous ones ; but most vigorous " prospecting " of deep channels is being 
carried on in the various creeks, and sufficient success has been met with to 
justify the confidence in Cariboo which is generally felt. Cariboo will for many 
years be among the best paying diggings on the Pacific coast. 



Kootenay. 

The miners in the south-eastern angle of the province, on the Kootenay 
and Columbia rivers, are making good wages, and are pleased with their 
prospects. The hydraulic claims there will last for years yet. The miners 
show great activity in examining the undoubtedly gold-bearing country in 
their immediate neighbourhood, and also at the head waters of the Kootenay and 
Columbia. The prospecting parties out in 1874, aided by the Government 
appropriation, have done well. Good " prospects " were got on Quartz Creek 
which opens into the Columbia Kiver, 200 miles N.W. of Wild Horse Creek ; 
also on the Slocan Eiver, and above the mouth of the Kootenay Kiver. 
Samples of gold and silver quartz were brought in. The mining season in this 
part of the province is longer than in Caiiboo. 



Omineca. 

Omineca, in the far north of the province, has not yet proved to be a high- 
paying gold-field. The gold is distributed ; in 1873 probably each miner 
made about 8 dollars (32s. English) per day during the season. The country 
is vast, and not much prospected. Omineca is kept back at present by 
the high cost of labour and supplies, like many other gold-yielding places 
in British Columbia. 

The above are gold-fields which were expected to be, or are, high-paying 
diggings. The immigrant will understand, however, that gold is found almost 



MINING. 77 

everywhere, and that numbers of Chinese and Indians are mining in all 
parts of the province, and are making from 1 to 5 dollars (4s. to 20s. English) 
per day. 

At this stage of the world's history homilies are not wanted upon the risks 
of gold-mining in this quarter of the globe, or, indeed, elsewhere. In British 
Columbia the work is hard, the season is short in the northern parts of the 
province, the returns from the occupation are uncertain. But it must have 
many compensating advantages, or it would not be so attractive. One thing 
may be said, namely, that a gold-miner has a steady market for his produce ; 
he has never to wait for a market for his gold, nor is it much affected by com- 
petition or over-production. 

The point for the settler to note is that it is an immense advantage to a settler 
to he in a mineral country, because the mines give work to those able to 
undertake it, and create local markets, which otherwise might not exist for 
generations. 

I do not think that any man living will see the exhaustion of the precious 
mineral deposits of British Columbia. The history of the older mining country 
of California shows partly what may be expected in British Coliunbia. 



Cassiar. » 

In addition to the above gold-fields, rich diggings have recently been 
discovered at Cassiar. The district of Cassiar, although more distant from the 
capital than the other gold regions, is really more accessible than any of them, 
as the journey involves very little land travel. The route from Victoria is 
by coasting steamers to Fort Wrangel at the mouth of the Stickeen River, 
thence up the river to Buck's Bar by light-draught steamboats, the re- 
mainder of the journey, about 85 miles, being by a trail. The principal 
diggings are at present on Dease's and Thibert's Creeks, and are for the 
most part shallow or placer diggings. A large number of minere worked 
there during the summer of 1874, with, as usual in gold-mining, very varied 
success. The general result, however, of the season's work was highly satis- 
factory. Cassiar is likely to prove one of the most important gold-fields of 
British Columbia. 

Californian Experience. 

The exhaustion of the easier diggings in California has had the effect of 
creating new plans of management and new appliances and methods of work- 
ing ; and so will it be year after year in British Columbia. In California, at 
the present time, many small claims are thrown together, so as to be worked 
on a grand scale under a single business administration. Long bed rock- 
tunnels are made to secure outlet and drainage to deep and extensive basins 
of gold-bearing gravel, covering often many individual claims, none of which 
could otherwise have been worked. Various other labour- and money-saving 
expedients have been adopted to aid the effect of this co-operation of labour 
and consolidation of interests. Not the least remarkable fact in California is, 
that new kinds of mineral deposits have been discovered, additionally to the 
ordinary " placers " and " quartz veins." (In British Columbia we have not yet 
even begun to work our quartz veins.) Successively in California have been 



78 MINING. 

bronglit to light those singular deposits known as " gold bluffs " and "gold 
Leaches ;" the " dead rivers," with their strata of auriferous cement and gravel ; 
the deep hydraulic banks, almost mountains of gold-bearing material ; the beds 
of " gossan " and broad belts of slate, also auriferous ; and finally, the " seam 
diggings," consisting of narrow veins of decomposed quartz, running irregu- 
larly through porphyritic and other formations, and which, being full of free 
gold, and, withal, so friable that they can be broken down with a pick, and often 
with even a stream of water, are likely to become the sources of extensive and 
profitable mining. Already a good many have embarked in the business of 
working these " seams." 

The " dead rivers " and hydraulic banks are worked on a vast scale, being 
now the principal theatres of placer-mining in California. The auriferous 
gossans, some of which were worked quite extensively a number of years ago, 
are again attracting attention. 

The San Francisco Herald and Market Review, 17th January, 1873, con- 
tains the following : — 

" It is curious to observe how almost every one of those discoveries of gold 
which, like Fraser Eiver (British Columbia), &:c., had come to be regarded 
popularly as the sheerest delusions, have all the while been the theatres of a 

tolerably extensive and prosperous mining industry After proceeding 

from one description of deposit to another, our miners return and attack those 
earliest discovered and which had at first been slighted, or perhaps wholly 
discarded, under the impression that they were unworthy of notice. 

" In this manner the vast accumulations of tailings, at first abandoned 
without any thought that they would ever be looked after more, have since 
been re-washed, in some cases several times over, and are still preserved for 
additional operations, when sufficient gold shall have been liberated by further 
decomposition to warrant the same. Thus it is, certain of our diggings possess 
a sort of perennial existence, gi'owing out of this power to renew themselves 
from time to time." 

The whole of the above is a lesson to gold-minins; croakers. 



Coal-Mining. 

The presence of good coal in Vancouver Island, and its absence on other 
portions of the Pacific coast, are much in favour of the province. A distin- 
guished scientific traveller, acquainted with the north-west. Dr. Eobert Brown, 
M.A., President of the Koyal Physical Society, Edinburgh, states that the 
only North Pacific coal specially fitted for steaming purposes is found in the 
British possessions, all others being of tertiary age and very inferior in 
quality — slaggy and often sulphurous. " In her coal-fields," Dr. Brown says, 
" British Columbia has, within herself, the elements of lasting prosperity." 

Distribution of Coal-Fields. 

The tertiary beds of inferior coal are found in California, Oregon, and 
Washington (United States) ; and tertiary croppings are also seen here and 
there in the southern part of the British territory of Vancouver Island, on part 
of the west coast of the island, and also in the southern part of the mainland. 
They extend east, with some interruption, right across the Eocky Mountains. 



MINING. 79 

' The secondary beds of the ISTortli Pacific coast, affording very good coal, 
situated so as to be more or less capable of being profitably worked — are 
believed to be confined to Vancouver Island. 

The coal-fields in the Nasse-Skena district have not been carefully examined 
yet. Anthracitic coal is found in Queen Charlotte Island, which would be of 
immense value to the whole Pacific coast could it be worked profitably. 

The following extract from the report of the director of the Geological 
Survey of Canada refers to the coal-fields of British Columbia : 

" It is a circumstance that will yet be seen to have an important bearing on 
the future of Canada, that on both her eastern and western shores, one 
washed by the Atlantic and the other by the Pacific, coal in quantities practi- 
cally inexhaustible is found near the water's edge. If this does not in time 
to come give this country a strong commercial position on both oceans then 
Buckle's theory as to the influence of natural conditions on civilization and 
progress will have to be revised, and Canadians will have proved themselves 
degenerate and shiftless sons of enterprising sires. The Comox coal-field, 
lying between the Beaufort range of hills and the Straits of Georgia, extends 
for a considerable distance along the coast, and includes Denman and Hornby 
Islands. The Vancouver Island coal is proved to be a true bituminous coal, 
for the most part, and the term ' lignite ' heretofore applied to it is shown to 
have been a mistake. Anthracite coal, again, is found on the Queen Charlotte 
Islands, nearly five hundred miles from Victoria, and, from what has already 
been ascertained, it appears a reasonable inference that the Canadian Pacific 
shore coal-fields are really of vast extent. The great warm oceanic current, 
flowing from the Equator towards the North Pole, washes the Canadian shore, 
making the ^vinters mild, and carrying far north the balmy influences of a 
moist and warm climate. With open ports in all seasons, as well as abun- 
dance of coal and of splendid timber for shipbuilding near to the coast, it will 
be a contradiction of all former experience if British Columbia does not soon 
rise to something like the rank of a maritime power on the Pacific." 

Mines at Nanaimo. 

Eituminous mines at Nanaimo, on the east side of Vancouver Island, have 
been worked by an English company (the Vancouver Coal Mining Company) 
successfully for many years, and a flourishing town has grown up around the 
mines. The number of miners, artisans, and labourers employed in mining 
and dehvering the coal to vessels at the date of the latest returns was 241 ; 
but the entire population of the town (numbering about 1000 souls) may be 
said to derive its subsistence from the miners. Nanaimo also is a market for 
the beautiful farming district of Comox. 

The excellent quality of the coal of Vancouver Island is well established. 
It is in great request for gas, steam, and domestic use, and as compared with 
other coals mined on the Pacific coast, its superiority is unquestioned. 

See page 6 of this handbook for proof of the quality of the Nanaimo coal. 
The coal shipped by this company during the ten years ending olst December, 
1872, reached 330,395 tons, nearly one-half of which was for the San Fran- 
cisco market. The production of the mines has kept pace with the demand, 
and the works are being freely extended at several points in view of a growing 
market. 



80 MINING. 

Wages paid at Nanaimo are as follows : — 
Miners ., .. 3 to 4 dollars (12s. to 16s. English) per day. 



Mechanic .. 


31 


5> 


(15s. 




>» 




Engineer 


2 „ 3^ 


»> 


(8s. 


„ 14s. 


?> 




Blacksmith . , 


2 „3i 




(8s. 


„ 13s. 


>> 




Labourer .. 


If „2 




( 7s. 


„ 8s. 


j> 




Chinese or Indians 


1 » li 




(4s. 


„ 5s. 







As the works are being extended, skilled miners would be likely to find 
employment, and able-bodied men also are required to act as " runners " and 
'' loaders." 

There is no fire-damp in the Nanaimo mine. 

Many of the miners and artisans occupy their own dwellings. The com- 
pany sells town lots at moderate prices, and is extremely desirous to promote 
the growth of a town of independent freeholders in this eligible spot. 

Nanaimo is pleasantly situated, and is already a busy, thriving colonial 
town, with churches, schools, and a member of parliament. It has none of 
that " dried-up," blackened appearance which colliery villages so often pre- 
sent in the mining districts of England. The climate is very like that of 
England — better than the climate of the north of England. Game and fish 
are abundant in the neighbourhood. 

I have named the above mine because it is worked on a large scale. 
Other coal-mines on the east coast of the island — the Wellington, the Harewood, 
etc. — under experienced management, have been worked lately and have very 
good prospects. Their progress will be described in subsequent editions. 

Capital and labour are the two essentials to the almost unlimited develop- 
ment of coal mining in British Columbia. The existence of a fine quality 
of coal on the seaboard cannot fail to be of the very greatest importance when 
the Canadian Pacific Eailway converts British Columbia into one of the 
world's highways. By that time, at least three trans-continental railways 
will connect on the Pacific coast with lines of coasting and ocean steamers, 
which will get steam coal from the only North Pacific district that can supply 
it, namely, Vancouver Island. The efiect also of a supply of coal on local 
manufacturing industry cannot be overlooked as an element of future 
supremacy. 

Iron and Stone. 

About a mile from the town of Nanaimo, on Newcastle Island, a free- 
stone quarry is worked. From this place the stone was supplied to build the 
new United States Mint at San Francisco, California. The stone is easily 
worked, hardens by exposure, and has all the appearance of a very fine grained 
granite. 

There is plenty of marble in the province, but it has not yet been worked. 

The explorations of the Dominion Geological Surveyor, along the coast and 
in the interior of Vancouver Island, gives the most gratifying account of the 
vast mineral resources which everywhere abound throughout the length and 
breadth of the country. Iron, coal, copper, marble, etc., exist in inexhaustible 
quantities, and must sooner or later be productive of untold wealth. Compared 
with iron and coal, the gold mines themselves may prove to be of but minor 
importance. On Texada island alone, the iron-b^ds, if beds they can properly 
be called, seeing that they tower up high above the level of the sea, are of 



TIMBEK. 81 

incalculable value, the rock assaying eighty per cent, of pure iron of the very best 
quality. In the immediate vicinity of these vast iron beds are equally vast 
beds of excellent limestone. Not only are iron and limestone lying side by side, 
as if nature had specially intended them for man's use and benefit at some 
future da}'', but also in close proximity to them are extensive veins of bituminous 
coal, which give greatly enhanced value to those mines. That the manufacture 
of iron is destined to become a staple industry of the country, a source of 
unlimited wealth, affording in due course of time employment to thousands of 
labourers and mechanics, may be accepted as a foregone conclusion. As a 
matter of fact, the people of this country as yet know very little about the 
real extent and variety of its mineral resources. As the country becomes 
settled up, we shall of course know more about these things.— Victoria 
Standard. 

Silver Mining. 

There appears to be really good prospects for silver mining in British 
Columbia — a branch of mining which would affect the labour market in much 
the same way as coal mining. Several promising leads have been found, and 
men are now searchiog the Cascade Eange for more. Some silver quartz has 
been got at Kootenay. At one silver mine, near Hope, works of a consider- 
able extent are being carried on ; a road is made from Hope to the mine 
itself. 

The above silver mine is not the only one known to exist in the Fraser 
Valley, and so soon as the Hope mine shall have been worked more exten- 
sively, and shall have yielded, as is expected, good results, there is no doubt 
but that other mines, situated in the same range of mountains, will likewise 
be worked. 

The Standard newspaper of October, 1872, says of the neighbourhood 
of the town of Hope : — 

* v^"It is now established, beyond all reasonable doubt, that British Columbia 
is rich in silver. Our silver 'prospects are even better than our gold, and we 
should not be surprised to see, in the course of another year, not only silver 
mining on an extensive scale commenced, but such a rush into the interior of 
this country in search of silver leads, as our neighbours have witnessed in the 
case of Washoe, White Pine, and other localities." 

Copper Mining 

has been begun in many places, but not been actively prosecuted, owing to 
want of capital. The appearances for successful copper mining in several 
parts of the province are considered to be very encouraging. 

Timber. 

"Logging" and " saw milling" never will be industries to be much relied 
upon by newly-arrived emigrants from Europe, as the various descriptions 
of labour required are best carried on by persons who have had special 
training. 

The West Cascade region of the province is densely wooded, chiefly with 
many species of gigantic conifers, but a very large part of the East Cascade 
region (see page 55) is generally unwooded, or but thinly wooded. Where 
wood exists in the East Cascade region the conifers still predominate. 



82 TIMBEE. 

TJie settler who is near any main line of communication should not look 
upon his fine timber as a vahieless possession which may be wasted improvi- 
deutly. The timber on his farm may, within his own lifetime, be worth as 
much as the soil of his farm. 

In reply to many letters from Eastern Canada as to the "lumbering 
business " in British Columbia, I may state that it is already an important 
industry and capable of considerable extension. During 10 years ending 
1870, about 60 million feet of rough and dressed Douglas fir lumber, with a 
quantity of shingles, laths, pickets, and about 3500 spars, were exported. 
This export has greatly increased since. Wages to woodmen range from 25 
to 45 gold dollars a month with board, and the same in saw-mills, with 
higher wages for a few of the more skilled and responsible men. The snow is 
not of any use in logging in the seaboard districts. Logging roads are made 
through the woods, and the logs are drawn by oxen, and rolled into the water 
and floated to the mills. Work in the woods goes on throughout the year, 
but time is lost to workmen when it rains heavily in winter. Eivers are not 
greatly used for the conveyance of logs. The business at present is carried 
en almost entirely on salt water. There are 15 saw-mills throughout the 
province, but of these 3 only furnish cargoes for export. Logs delivered at 
the mill cost from 4 to 6 dollars a thousand feet superficial, and the cost of 
sawing adds other 5 to 7 dollars. 

Li British Columbia leases of unpre-empted Crown lands may be obtained 
on very easy terms, but subject to pre-emption by individuals who, however, 
are not allowed to cut timber on the pre-empted land for sale, or for any 
purpose, except use upon the pre-emptor's farm. 

As regards water power, the whole country is full of most picturesque 
waterfalls of all sizes, many of which might be used for local saw-mills and 
other mills. There is some doubt, however, whether, within the Douglas fir 
region, near the coast, many good water privileges can be found suitably 
placed, and with a sufficiently regular, powerful, all-the-year-round flow of 
water to drive large export saw-mills. Probably steam-power will always be 
found safest for large saw-mills. 

With respect to the use of the British Columbian rivers for " Joggincj " 
purposes^ the lumberman must bear in mind the physical structure of the 
North American continent, according to which the long and gentle slopes 
descend from the spine of the continent — the Eocky range — towards the 
Atlantic Ocean, and the short and rapid slopes towards the Pacific Ocean. 
This gives a character to the rivers west of the Eocky range. The rivers 
generally are interrupted by rapids ; they often flow compressed between 
gloomy rocky walls ; they rise and fall with great rapidity. The aridness of 
the country east from the Cascade range in British Columbia diminishes the 
volume of the East Cascade rivers very much — the Eraser in fact being, as 
already said, the only one strong enough to get through the Cascade range to 
the sea. 

That the Eraser Eiver, if valuable timber grows near its upper waters, may 
be, by the adoption of " slides " and other improvements, made available for 
water carriage of logs from the East Cascade ]-egion to the seaboard for export 
purposes, I do not doubt, but the difficulty and expense will postpone this 
undertaking until the supplies of timber in the'West Cascade region, both ir 
English and American territory, are considerably exhausted. The saw-miller 



TIMBER. 83 

who proposes to cut for export must look at present for a saw-mill location 
and a logging ground in the West Cascade region. 

The only timber exported in cargoes is that of the Douglas fir, commonly 
called " pine." It is a tough, strong wood, well adapted for "beams, but good 
also for planks and deals. It makes excellent masts and yards, and is used 
for shipbuilding and housebuilding. It grows to the height of 150 to 200 
feet, and attains a thickness of 5 to S feet at the butt. It carries its thickness 
well up. Dressed masts of 36 inches in diameter, at one-third from butt, and 
Avith proper proportions for the required length, have been supplied from the 
Douglas fir forests. This British Columbian wood is known in Australia, 
New Zealand, and Great Britain, as "Oregon pine," though Oregon does not 
export it to these markets. A good growing demand for British Columbian 
Douglas fir timber and square timber exists in South America, Australia, and 
China, and a few cargoes of spars are sent annually to England. 

This Douglas fir (or " Douglas pine," or " Oregon pine") predominates in 
the forests of the West Cascade region, but not in the arid parts of the East 
Cascade region. It is plentiful in Washington Territory (United States) 
The Douglas fir is also found in some of the Eocky Mountain valleys, on the 
Blue Mountains of Oregon, and here and there eastward as far as the head 
waters of the Platte. At present the principal seats of its manufacture for 
export are the coast of British Columbia, and in Puget Sound (United States). 
The Douglas fir does not grow in any quantity north of Llillbank Sound, in 
lat. 52°. 

The principal existing mills are in the New Westminster district, and pro- 
bably that neighbourhood will continue to be the chief seat of the export of 
Douglas fir. The Nasse-Skena district looks like a good saw-milling country 
on the map, but the Douglas fir, as just said, is not found so far north. The 
inlets on the mainland, or some of the outlying islands between Millbank 
Sound and the New Westminster district, probably offer locations for export 
saw-mills, but it is not known, however, at present, that these places can be 
found readily. Many of the inlets are almost wall-sided, with short water- 
courses or torrents emptying into them the water collected among the sur- 
rounding gloomy mountains. The rivers generally which flow into these 
inlets are not good " logging " rivers. There is, however, a vast extent of 
sheltered water-line between Millbank Sound and the New Westminster 
district, and it is impossible not to believe that suitable places for large 
Douglas fir export saw-mills are to be found where practical saw-millers would 
make fortunes. 

The West Cascade region is difficult to traverse, and has not been a tenth 
part explored by saw-mill men. If it should prove that suitable locations for 
large saw-mills are few, the value of these to the possessors will be propor- 
tionately increased. 

The saw-mill business in British Columbia would be greatly helped if the 
San Francisco market were opened by the reduction or removal of the duty on 
foreign lumber. 

None of the other conifers in the north-west are likely to take the place 
of the Douglas fir for export trade, until the latter is completely exhausted in 
accessible situations in both English and American territory. I may, how- 
ever, name a few of these conifers. 
Menzies' fir (" spruce fir," or " black spruce "), is plentiful ; smaller than the 

a 2 



84 FAKMING. 

Douglas fir, but still a Titan. Merten's fir (" hemlock spruce ") is also a very 
large tree, with a straight trunk. The wood of these trees has little export 
value compared with the Douglas fir. Hemlock lasts well in the ground and 
makes good laths. Another large fir is the " Canada fir," but the timber is 
inferior, though when seasoned it makes boards, scantling, and shingles. 
The bark is useful in tanning. The" Contorted pine" — which some call the 
*' Scotch fir " — is found through the valley of the Fraser on the high grounds ; 
it grows from 25 to 50 feet high, and 1 foot in diameter. On the upper parts 
of the Fi-aser this tree is plentiful, but of little value except for its resin. 
The white pine (the north-western representative of the Strobus) is a fine tall 
tree, with wood like the white pine of Eastern Canada, but it is not known to 
grow sufficiently in groves to supply large export saw-mills. For local uses 
the white pine will be important. 

In selecting a farm, the settler will find small cedar a most valuable farai- 
wood for fencing and roofing. It is durable and easily split. Cedar grows 
scattered among the fir forests. Many fine specimens are found on the moun- 
tains, 30 to 40 feet round at the butt, and 200 feet high. The Indians use 
cedar for numerous purposes ; I speak of the Thuja gigantea. It becomes rare 
as you go north, and ceases about 58°. There is another fine tree of the same 
kind, the yellow cypress ( Cupressus nutkaensis). This grows small in Vancouver 
Island and in the south of the West Cascade region, but north of 53*^, up to 
about Sitka, it is plentiful, and as large as its southern congener, the cedar. 
The yellow cypress is tough, light, and fragrant, and takes a fine polish. I 
think it likely that it will be exported in small cargoes when the Nasse-Skena 
district is settled. 

The alder is frequently met with among the fir-forests, chiefly beside streams, 
or in cool, humid places. It grows to about 30 or 40 feet, with a straight smooth 
trunk. Alder land is generally good, and is easily cleared. Alder makes good 
firewood. The large-leaved maple is our best substitute for hard wood ; it 
grows 70 feet high and 2 or 3 feet thick, generally on the banks of streams and 
in rich river-bottoms. The Indians make snow-shoes, spear-handles, &c., of 
this wood, and weave baskets, hats, and mats, from the inner bark. It is 
plentiful in the Nasse-Skena district, but is found scattered in the West Cascade 
region generally (including Vancouver Island). The crab-apple is common in 
swampy places, but of no great size. It is hard enough to take polish. Birch 
is found scattered in the Nasse-Skena, and also again in the Kootenay districts. 
Some say the elm grows in the last-named district. 

The oak (Garry's oak) is too rare a tree in British Columbia to be of much 
value. It is found in some parts of Vancouver Island — for instance, near 
Victoria — on lands over which firs have not yet encroached. Many of the 
oaks in Saanich are straight and of fair dimensions, say 2^ feet to 3 feet through. 
The wood is useful though inferior to the English oak. I need not mention the 
arbutus, dogwood, cottonwood, and other trees, as the immigrant does not 
require a complete catalogue of trees. 

Sheep Farming. 

Sheep thrive well in British Columbia, increase rapidly, and are profitable 
both for the mutton and wool they yield, A considerable population, which will 
eat mutton, will always be employed in mining, agricultural, and other pursuits. 



FARMING. 85 

One great reason, probably, why the supply of wool is so small, coropara- 
tively, in ISTorth America (including the United States), is that the character- 
istics of the soil, surface, and climate of the north-west of the continent have 
not been known, and that consequently sheep have not been taken to the part 
of the country specially suited for wool-bearing animals. Mountain-sheep and 
goats have been found in the north-west from the earliest known period. 

Sheep — West Cascade Region. 

In the humid, wooded West Cascade region there are few large ranges for 
sheep, and at present the wolves and panthers occasionally kill sheep, as well 
as pigs. If these pests would permit it, the West Cascade farmers might 
always advantageously add a few head of sheep to their general farming stock, 
as is done in Eastern Canada. 

These sheep would be a benefit to the farm by eating the grass which other 
stocks did not consume, and by giving good manure in return. The wool also 
would generally command a good price, as small flocks can be better cared for 
than large ones. 

Sheep — East Cascade Region. 

Thriving flocks of 2000 sheep are found in the East Cascade region, but 
" wool-growing " is yet quite in its infancy. The plains and undulating grassy 
table-lands of the East Cascade region are especially cattle-lands ; but bold, 
hilly land with natural features, affording shelter from wind and weather, such 
as the sheep-farmer likes, can be found in many parts. Lower ground also, 
stony and dry, would answer well in this region for sheep, except, perhaps, 
the alkali lands, which, it is said, cause wool to be deficient in lustre and 
strength. 

I have already spoken of the natural pasture, bunch-grass, as a prime grass 
for fattening all the year round, and as also being delicate and liable to be 
injured by close, continuous sheep-feeding. 

There are various other good grasses — black sage, for instance, which sheep 
are very fond of— and my belief is that these grasses are in sufficient quantity 
on good natural sheep-runs to justify the expectation of sheep-farming being 
undertaken on a great scale. 

I am quite aware it is one thing to have sheep merely as an adjunct to a farm 
or other establishment, or as fat stock for the markets, and quite another thing 
to establish a wool-producing sheep-station, distinctively on ?. secure and self- 
supporting footing. It is the latter undertaking I am thinking of. 

Mr. A. C. Anderson, author of a Prize Essay on the country, and who has 
travelled much through it as an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, says 
that he " can recall to mind extensive tracts which seem specially adapted for 
the pasturing of very extensive flocks." 

The climate, though variable within certain limits, is, as already explained, 
on the whole, temperate in summer and winter; and, as a consequence, the 
grass is generally in such a state that the sheep would not lose condition. The 
soil in general is dry ; the supply of pure water abundant. 

Disease among the flocks now existing in the East Cascade region has been 
most rare. The sheep are not subject to that formidable enemy of the sheep- 
farmer, the scab. 



8Q FAKMING. 

' Kind of Sheep. 

The sheep, of course, must he adapted to the country. This is a funda- 
mental principle in sheep-farming. A man may change his " run," but he 
cannot easily change his flock. 

It is the opinion of several experienced sheep-fanners in Scotland, with whom 
I have consulted, that a suitable breed for the whole of British Columbia might 
be found in a cross between a Cheviot ewe and a Leicester ram. 

The large and heavy Cheviot proper would stand the wetness of the West 
Cascade region, as well as the winter cold of the East Cascade region ; but this 
sheep might not like the hot summers of the latter. Again, the Cheviot is 
inclined to roam, and yields comparatively little wool. Crossing a Cheviot 
ewe with a Leicester ram, however, would produce a sheep which probably 
would stand both the heat and cold of the East Cascade region ; this crossing 
would at the same time tame the Cheviot, make the sheep more disposed to 
take on fat, and would almost double the fleece, while improving the quality 
of the wool. 

While travelling in Colorado lately where the climate somewhat resembles 
that of portions of British Columbia, I was told that the favourite plan there 
for wool-sheep was to cross imported thorough-bred Merino rams with native 
Mexican ewes. The latter are believed to be the old Spanish Merino breed, 
run out, but healthy, hardy, and acclimated. 

This cross prepared the way for mutton-sheep, crossing readily with South- 
down or Cotswold, and giving a large frame and fine mutton. 

There are good breeds of sheep in Oregon (quite close to British Columbia) — 
Southdowns, Cotswolds, Merinos, and also a cross of the Merino and Leicester. 

The Merino blood results in the production of short heavy fine wool, which 
I am told, is found in California to be rather short for the manufacture of 
" fine goods " and too expensive for " common goods/' owing to the shortness 
and shrinkage. 

Goats. 

There is a great demand in America for the hair of the Angora goat — an 
animal that would probably thrive well in British Columbia. 

These animals delight in stony or rocky places. They are more attached 
to the place where they have been bred than sheep, are more sagacious, and 
require less herding. 

They are inclined to breed oftener than once a year, but should not be 
allowed to do so. They often produce twins, and having an abundance of 
milk, are able to rear their young well. On any farm where they thrive well, 
they are not liable to any disease ,* consequently the increase of a flock is very 
rapid. 

Goats should lamb when there is young grass. If grass be scarce, and the 
goats consequently have little milk, or if their udders be tender, they will 
reject their kids. To make goats take to their offspring is the only difficulty 
connected with farming them. Young goats, more than old ones, are liable 
to this fault. After the kids are a month or six weeks old — during which 
they should not be allowed to follow the flock and get lost behind stones or 
heaps, or destroyed by beasts or birds of prey — neither young nor old require 
any particular attention. In fact, they should 'be left alone as much as 
possible. When the hair becomes loose it should be combed off" for market. 



FISHEKIES. 87 

General Remarks on Wool Growing. 

Upon the whole, it may be said that the sheep and goat farming capabilities 
of British Columbia are worth the attention of practical sheep-farmers in Great 
Britain, Germany, Australia, and New Zealand. 

I need not point out the advantage of being early in the country to start 
sheep-farming on the natural pastures, before sheep-farming becomes an affair 
of cultivated grasses and enclosures. This is a great point. 

Sheep-land in New Zealand sells high, and there is but a limited quantity. 
Yictoria, again is out of the question, as every acre of sheep-land is taken up 
(that is, claimed and occupied) right through to Sydney, and heavily taxed. 
South Australia again — there is no surface water ; all well-sinking — which is 
very expensive. The days have gone by for an overseer or manager in these 
countries to get a share, or even an interest, in a run, and the colonial laws 
are pressing heavily on the squatters. 

Fisheries. 

In speaking of the fisheries of British Columbia, one may almost be said to 
be speaking of something which has no existence. With the exception of a 
few factories for putting up salmon in tins on the Fraser River, and one or 
two whaling enterprises of a few years' standing, no attempt whatever has 
been made to develop the actually marvellous resources of this province in 
the way of fish. I will, therefore, proceed to give a list of the fish that are to 
be found in quantities that would warrant the establishment of fisheries, 
adding a brief description of the habits, localit}', and commercial utility of each 
•class of fish. 

Description of fish found in British Columbia and Vancouver Island : — 
Whale, sturgeon, salmon, oolachan or houlican, cod, herring, halibut, sardine, 
anchovy, oysters, haddock, and dog-fish. 

There is no law governing fisheries in British Columbia. Fishing is carried 
on throughout the year without any restrictions. This state of things is well 
suited to a new and thinly populated country. The restrictions of a close 
season would be very injurious to the province at present, and for many years 
to come. 

Whale. — On this subject the Hon. H. L. Langevin, C.B,, reports : — 
" 1 saw one of the whalers, the ' Byzantium,' in Deep Bay. She was an English 
brig, commanded by Captain Calhoun, and on board of her was Captain Koys, the 
inventor of an explosive ball, which is used in the whale fishery, and which, 
on penetrating the marine monster, explodes, and throws out a harpoon. The 
first whale against which this projectile was used was killed in 1868. In 
1869 and 1870, the company made use of a small steam-vessel ; and their 
success last year induced them to devote to the trade a brig of 179 tons, 
manned with twenty hands. 

" I was assured that, if that expedition proved a success, there is room in our 
Pacific waters for at least fifty undertakings of a similar character. I observe 
that, since my return, the whaling schooner ' Industry ' has arrived at 
Victoria with 300 barrels, or about 10,000 gallons of oil, after an absence 
of only five weeks. One of the whales killed during the expedition was sixty 
feet long, and would certainly yield nearly seventy barrels of oil. 



8S FISHEEIES. 

" On this subject the Blue Book of 1870 contains tlie following : — 
" * During the year there were three whaling companies in existence (one of 
these has since broken down). Thirty-two whales were killed, yielding 
25,800 gallons of oil, worth 50 cents per gallon. There was one vessel with 
boats, and there were two stations with boats, altogether employing forty-nine 
hands. The capital invested in this interest amounted to about 20,000 
dollars. 

" ' The dog-fish catch exceeds in importance that of the whales. 50,000 
gallons of dog-fish oil were rendered, worth 40 cents per gallon. This branch 
of industry is steadily progressing.' 

" From another source I have obtained the following information respecting 
1871 :— 

" ' There are three whaling expeditions now in action in the waters of British 
Columbia, viz. : — 

" ' 1st. The British Columbia Whaling Company, with the ' Kate,' a schooner 
of 70 tons, outlay 15,000 dollars. They have already secured 20,000 gallons ; 
they expect 10,000 more. The value of oil here is 37 cents a gallon. In 
England it is worth S5l. a ton of 252 gallons. This company have in addition 
secured already 30,000 gallons of dog-fish oil, worth 37 cents here per gallon, 
55 cents in California, and Sol. a ton in England. 

" 2nd. The brig ' Byzantium,' 179 tons, expenditure 20,000 dollars. Their 
take for the year is not known. 

" ' 3rd. Steamer ' Emma' and screw 'Industry,' expenditure 10,000 dollars, 
estimated take 15,000 gallons.' " 

This coast is considered by an old whaler from Providence to be one of 
the best fields in the world from whence to start whaling enterprises. The 
mildness of the climate as compared with northern Atlantic climates, and the 
sheltered coasts of British Columbia, offer great advantages to whale-fishing 
companies. 

The Sturgeon abounds in the rivers and estuaries of British Columbia. 
It attains a gigantic size, over 500 lbs. in -weight. The flesh is excellent, 
both fresh and smoked. No attempt, that I am aware of, has ever been made 
to put the fish up for market. Its commercial A^alue is derived from the 
isinglass and caviare which can be made from it. I am not aware of there having 
been any attempt made to manufacture isinglass in the province. Caviare of 
excellent quality has been produced. At present I should be inclined to 
believe that there is no person in the province capable of making isinglass, 
which is, therefore, a resource entirely rmdeveloped as yet. 

Salmon. — The salmon in the w^aters of British Columbia are excellent in 
quality, varied in species, and most abundant. In the rivers, which they 
penetrate up to their head waters, they are caught by a drag-net in the deep 
waters, and by a bag-net in the rapids. In the sea they are generally caught 
with hook and line ; a canoe at certain seasons can be filled in a day by the 
latter method. The Eraser River salmon is justly famous. They begin to 
enter the river in March, and different kinds continue to arrive until October, 
the successors mixing for a time with the last of their forerunners. There 
is a greater degree of certainty in the periodical arrivals of each kind in this 
river than at the coasts and islands. The salmon is used fresh, salted, pickled, 
smoked, and kippered, and for export is put up salted in barrels, and fresh 



FISHERIES. 8^ 

in one- or two-poimd tins ; the latter process has only been commenced during 
the past three years. The article produced is of a most excellent description, 
and will doubtless prove a source of considerable export trade when it becomes 
kno\\-n in suitable markets. There would appear to be no limit to the catch 
of salmon, but the question of market must alway be considered. 

Oolachans or Houlicans. — This small fish, about the size of a sprat, appears 
in the rivers of British Columbia and about certain estuaries on the coast, 
towards the end of April. Their run lasts about three weeks, during which 
time they may be captured in myriads. Eaten fresh, they are most delicious, 
and they are also excellent when salted or smoked. This fish produces oil 
abimdantly, which is of a pure and excellent quality, and which, some think, 
will eventually supersede cod-liver oil. The fish are caught with a pole 
about 10 feet in length, along which are arranged, for 5 feet at the end, nails 
like the teeth of a comb, only about IJ inch apart. The comb is thrust 
smartly into the water, brought up with a backward sweep of the hands, and 
is rarely found without 3 or 4 fish impaled on the nails. 1 have seen a canoe 
filled with them in 2 hours by a couple of hands. 

Cod. — Several kinds of cod are foimd in the waters of British Columbia,, 
which are excellent both fresh and cured. It has been often asserted, I cannot 
say ^rith what truth, that the true cod is found on the British Columbian 
coast. That, however, remains to be proved. The true cod is found in the 

waters near Behring's Straits. 

Herring. — This fish also abounds during the winter months, and is of 
good sound quality. It comes into the harbours about March. It is largely 
used in the province, both fresh and smoked, but nothing has been done in 
the way of export. 

Halibut. — There are many halibut banks in the waters of this province. 
The fish attain an enormous size, and are caught by deep-sea lines. They are 
only used in the province at present. They are of first-rate quahty, and an 
excellent article of food. 

Sardines. — These are found among the herrings. I cannot state if they 
are precisely the fijsh known to commerce under that designation, or in what 
quantity they exist ; but they are firm in flesh and excellent in flavour. 

Anchovy. — This fish is only second to the oolachan, or houlican, in its 
abundance. During the autumn it abounds in the harbours and inlets, and 
may be taken with great ease in any quantity. Eaten fresh, they have rather 
a bitter flavour. 

Haddock. — This fish, called in the country " mackerel," to which, how- 
ever, it has no resemblance, is a great favourite both fresh and cured. It is 
caught in the winter months, and when smoked forms a luxurious addition to 
the breakfast-table. A very large trade will be done some day in exporting 
this fish to the southern ports of America, where fi^h is highly valued in a 
smoked or cured state. 

Dog-Fish. — This species of fish can be taken with great facility with a 
line and hook in almost any of the numerous bays and inlets of this province. 
The oil extracted from them is obtained in abundance, and is commercially 



90 BEET SUGAE. 

of mucli value. It is produced in moderately large quantities by the Indians, 
and exported. (See Mr. Langevin's Eeport, quoted above.) 

Oysters are found in all parts of the province. Though small in their 
native beds, they are finely flavoured and of good quality. When, in course 
of time, regular beds are formed, and their proper culture is commenced, a 
large export will, no doubt, take place both in a fresh and canned state. 
There is a large consumption of oysters in cans on the Pacific coast. 

Beet Sugar. 

It seems to me almost certain that British Columbia will produce beet 
sugar for herself, and perhaps also to export. The primary essentials for this 
manufacture are cheap land and fuel, and pure water — three things which 
British Columbia can offer more of than any region in North America. The 
isugar of a civilised country, it is said, costs nearly as much as its wheat, and 
certainly beet sugar is almost a necessity in British Columbia, where the cost 
of carriage to many parts of the country must always add so much to the 
price of imported cane sugar. The demand in the province at present is, 
of course, in proportion to the population. The refuse' of the beet is good 
food for either beef-cattle, cows, or sheep — 3 tons of refuse beet being equal 
to 2 tons of the best hay. 

I believe that for the beet, a mixed soil, not too easily dried, is best. The 
alkaline matter should not be in large proportion for sugar, but for spirit 
manufacture this circumstance is not so important. Deep ploughing is a 
requisite to success, and even double ploughing is desirable. Seed, in England, 
should be sown by the middle of April. A fair average yield would be 20 tons 
of beets, and the leaves besides. A beet crop takes largely from the soil 
valuable ingredients — for instance, potash and phosphoric acid — and their waste 
should be supplied by manuring with the refuse matter of the sugar manu- 
facture. The waste liquor of distillation alone contains three-fourths of the 
abstracted potash. The manure of animals fed upon the pulp and the leaves 
would nearly embody the remaining fourth. 

Flax Growing. 

The existence of wild hemp and flax in British Columbia promises well for 
their cultivation. An immense growing demand exists for these and other 
fibred plants. New Zealand hemp in 1872 sold for 25Z. to 44?. per ton in 
London ; the tow 12Z. to 18Z. per ton. The Egyptian Government dressed 
flax 43Z. to 56Z. ; Egyptian scutched 54?. to 60/. per ton. Flax is a crop 
which requires much attention. It is not, therefore, likely to be grown by 
settlers who are hard at work " making " their farms, but older settlers should 
try this crop as a portion of the regular rotation on their farms. It is essen- 
tially the small farmer's crop, sown by himself, and cleaned, pulled, steeped, 
and sometimes even scutched, by his wife and children. This is the only 
way in which it can be grown in British Columbia until labour becomes much 
cheaper. I imagine the best plan at the present time would be to collect 
wild hemp or flax, also to cultivate some from the best and purest seed, and 
send several tons of the simple, unprepared planis to be dressed in England. 
It will thus be ascertained what the wild, and also the cultivated plants. 



TOBACCO. . 91 

from British Colum'bia are respectively fitted for. They may be fit for fine 
cloths, or only for ropes, twine, and coarse fabrics. Flax has been cultivated 
in Oregon, but only to make oil-cake for cattle. If British Columbia would 
show what kind of hemp or flax she can produce, the next question would be 
to get farmers in a district to grow flax regularly, and subscribe to build a 
scutch-mill of a size regulated by the probable wants of the flax-growers in 
the immediate neighbourhood. A small 4-stand mill could be built for 750 
dollars (150?. English). Water-power would be best for such mills, as they 
would only be worked for part of the year. Perhaps, as the growth of flax 
increased, practical flax- makers from the north of Ireland might form in the 
province flax-preparing associations on some principle not requiring the 
paying out of high wages. Land is rich and cheap), water abundant, wood 
plentiful, and perhaps Chinese or Indian hand labour might be used. 

The Government of the province can give full information as to the proper 
management of a flax crop. It may here be stated that flax is usually grown 
on a wide range of soils — sandy, calcareous, clay, loam, peat, &c. The most 
suitable, probably, is a deep friable clay loam, or the alluvial deposit of rivers. 
The land should be very well drained and subsoiled, and thoroughly weeded 
and pulverized like a garden soil. There must neither be underground nor 
surface water. Plough in winter and expose to action of frost. Eeplough 
and harrow in spring. Sowing time in Europe is March to May — say April 
— 2 J bushels to the statute acre. Favourite seed comes from Russia, but 
Dutch seed is extensively used for heavy soils. The flax is not cut with the 
scythe, but is pulled up by the roots. 



Tobacco. 

That tobacco will grow luxuriantly in most parts of the southern portion 
of the East Cascade region appears now to be beyond a doubt, and from all 1 
can learn from American growers, there are quite as few drawbacks to its 
successful cultivation there as in any part of America. In reco mm ending 
this crop, however, to immigrants as a source of profit, I should certainly 
mislead them much if I represented it as one which could be brought into the 
market in a saleable state, without the greatest care and attention in every 
stage, from the seed-bed until it is packed for manufacture. The rules for its 
preservation are perfectly simple, but a want of attention to them must 
inevitably end in failure, — in this respect differing altogether from crops 
which require little attention. As, however, the climate and soil appear, 
judging from results, to be so well suited to this plant, and its consumption, 
moreover, being now so general, I cannot but think that many may be 
induced to try their luck with it, if only for their own consumption. If 
undertaken by skilled tobacco planters, there would be a ready and profitable 
sale for almost any quantity. 

Tobacco, according to the latest returns, is grown to the extent of about 
7,000,000 lbs. in Holland, 5,000,000 lbs. in Belgium, 55,600,000 lbs. in 
France, 4,700,000 lbs. in Austria, 3,000,000 lbs. in Greece, and 274,000,000 
lbs. in the United States. 



( 92 ) 



APPENDIX. 



KoTES FOR A Year respecting the Settlements at Sumass and 
Chilliwhack, British Columbia. (See page 52.) 

A wearied traveller fiom Cariboo arrives. He says : — 

" The express canoe landed us at Kinset, by the Sumass. What a noble landscape ! the grass so 
green, the earth so cool, the flowers so beautiful, and the supper ! such a treat ! fresh eggs, fresh 
butter, real tea, and cream that smacked of mountain thyme. I wished to sleep outside; no! 1 
wanted to lie outside and watch the stars and the river and drink the pure air all night; but the 
farmer insisted on giving me a bed. I tumbled in, and was nearly lost in the mountains of down. I 
assure you I was astonished by the sleep I had here." 

" January Sth. — The snow has all gone from this neighbourhood, except that which has drifted in 
low spots. The stock in general are looking splendid ; farmers, having plenty of feed, lost none of 
their animals during the last cold snap." 

•' Two horses dead from some disease — public meeting about bridges and roads ; removing driftwood 
from river; fences— the following resolution passed among others : — 

" ' That the Government make a survey during the coming summer of the Sumass Valley, for the 
purpose of making an estimate of the cost of building a dyke to prevent the flooding by the Fraser at 
high stages, of a large tract of valuable land supposed to contain from 15,000 to 25,000 acres fit for 
agricultural purposes.' 

•' February.— Bad weather— rains and snow— three calves eaten by wolves, and some lost in 
quagmires — some weak cattle died. 

" March llth.— Weather changeable ; has been raining ; cattle doing well ; fall wheat looking well, 
though winter was bad ; 80 additional acres to be sown in spring —farmers busy ploughing ; fences 
and improvements going on; two years ago a farm sold for 450 dollars (90Z. English), three months 
ago, 1600 dollars (320Z. English). 

" New grist-mill arranged for — school flourishing. 

" April 1 5 i/i.— Weather beautiful— a pinch of frost occasionally— new Tariff disliked— 600 dollars 
(120?. English) subscribed for Wesleyan parsonage— camp meeting to be held before 'high water' 
this year- seeding not yet finished— had a visit from buyers of work cattle — potatoes shipped to Yale 
sold for 2 cents. (Irf. English) a lb. at the landing. 

" May 6th.— Another splendid tract of 'alder brush' land, 12,000 to 15,000 acres, found near 
Slatsqui — soil very rich — new road will go near it— 80 feet above highest water. A twin heifer, after 
a bad winter, when slaughtered, yielded 62i lbs. loose fat. Stock well— new flouring-mill begun 
— seeding about finished— busy planting wheat— both spring and fall wheat forcing its way out, though 
the past weather has been bad — delightful weather — bright sun— cloudless sky— balmy air — un- 
welcome night visitor— a slight nip by Jack Frost— very unusual— mosquitoes not appeared. 

" 3fay I8th.—The Fraser rising fast. 

*' June 25f/t.— Dry— a few showers wanted— petition about Post-office, and against all liquor-licences 
—school teacher appointed— will bring his family— hotel to be built. 

" June 2»th. — Beautiful showery weather — crops well — haying wiU begin in a few days— the place 
now has a saw-mill, grist-mill, market, school, and church. 

" July 37-d. — Too dry— woods seem on fire — water at its height some weeks ago— very few mosqui- 
toes—a farmer 60 acres wheat in one block. 

" July 20th. — Haying about finished — harvesting commenced — root crops have suffered from want 
of rain— school opens next T'hursday — bush fires raging — smoke annoying. 

" Auffust 12th. — Fine weather — crops very heavy — the prairies that were flooded at high water have 
splendid grass— harvesting drawing to close— good crops — forest burning on American side — annual 
Wesleyan Camp Meeting to be on 3rd September— new parsonage begun— a farmer who sowed 5 
bushels of wheat (Chili Club) got 100 bushels— the heads averaged 70 to 100 kernels each — grist-mill 
nearly finished— a fine dwelling-house being erected — mosquitoes disappeared — sent 35 dollars sub- 
scription to the Royal Columbia Hospital at New Westminster. 

" September. — Some farmers not quite done harvest — some still cutting wild hay for wintering — 
one farmer has 50 stacks up — hay very good, owing to low overflow of Fraser Eiver this year — a 
marriage— thrashing about to commence. 

September 23rd. — Many farmers busy ploughing for fall wheat— thrashing will be finished soon— 
another teacher arrived— some frost on night of 19th— heavy rain 21st, and now a gale." 



1 



APPENDIX. 93 

Abridged Newspaper Eeports for one year respecting the Lillooet- 
Clinton Country, including Bonaparte, Williams Lake, and up to 
QuESNEL Mouth. (See page 68.) 

" Bonaparte Valley, January 11 th. — Stock has not suffered, except a few cattle which slipped on 
the ice — fed on sage-brush on the side hills, not covered with snow. 

" Clinton, February 4i?i.— Had been very cold about Christmas, mercury frozen— gradually mode- 
I'ated to freezing-point on 10th January — ranged since 10 above to 10 below zero— stock doing well — 
sleighing splendid from the Bonaparte up— one firm will have 100,000 lbs. of bacon and hams for 
Cariboo and Omineca markets. 

" Cache Creek, February 20th. — "Winter gone suddenly— sudden thaw — beef cattle rolling in fat — 
a few exhausted stock died during winter. 

" Clinton, March 9th. — Spring weather — all snow gone — a little frost at nights — clear sunshiny 
days — farmers on the Thompson and Bonaparte busy ploughing — cattle doing well. 

" "Williams Lake, April lOth.—All seed in ground— cattle quite fat— Cache Creek and Bonaparte 
mild spring weather. 

" Lillooet, April 27^7t.— "Wheat crops magnificent — cannot see the land from the road — green blades 
waving like a meadow in summer. 

" Clinton, July ZOth. — Busy haying and harvesting— had unusual rain for such a dry climate — might 
injure hay crop. 

" Lillooet, Aiigust lOth. — Everything in the shape of a crop in the district abundant and in fine con- 
dition. 

" August 2Qth. — Busy harvesting— some finished on the Fraser River, and now eating bread from 
this year's wheat. 

" Clinton, October llth.—¥ine Cotswold rams arrived — flour-mill finished; lumber (sawn wood) cost 
30 dollars (6i!. English) per thousand feet superficial ; shingles for the roof cost 8 dollars (32s. English) 
per thousand in number. The new thresher has threshed this month 5^^ million pounds of oats 
in country about "Williams Lake, Lake La Hache, and San Jose "Valley. 

" November 1th.— Sno-w fell on Lillooet flat (a bench of the Fraser River, 1000 feet above sea-level) 
severe frost — zero — river frozen (this was a very bad winter). In 1861. the severest winter known for 
twenty years at Lillooet begun on 27th November, and may be said to have lasted to end of March." 



Abridged Eeport of Exploration, New Westminster District, by 
Mr. John Fannin in 1873. 

Tliat part of the New Westminster District lying between Bowndary Bay and the Langley 
Settlement.— A few patches of swamp, grass land were met with ; also two belts of alder land. 
"With the exception of these, the country is heavily timbered, with considerable fallen timber and 
thick undergrowth, the soil light and gravelly— years of labour before even the most favourable 
parts could be made available for agricultural purposes. A few groves of excellent fir and cedars ; one 
about three miles east of Hall's Prairie, and the other between the latter place and the Boundary 
Line. Hall's Prairie— a tract of fern and grass land — is situated west of the southern extremity of 
Langley Prairie, and about three miles from the Boundary Line. Soil, black loam with clay and 
gravel subsoil. 

In and about the Langley District, a number of excellent farms. 

The Langley Prairie is all occupied ; but a great part of it is uncultivated. 

Between Langley and Matsqui, some of the best land met with during the exploration . Eastward 
from southern extremity of Langley Prairie, say five miles, and southward towards Boundary Line, 
extends a strip of country where the undergrowth is thick, yet the soil here is of the best description 
(black loam) and in places very deep. The timber has been nearly all destroyed by fire, and fallen 
timber and matted undergrowth form an almost impenetrable jungle. But the diflficulties in the 
way of bringing this land under cultivation are not so formidable as at first sight appear. A fire 
placed in here about the month of October, should the season be favourable, would sweep it 
comparatively clear. Between this tract and the river, the country is somewhat broken or hilly, and 
in places the soil light and gravelly. 

J/aisgwi.- Eastward towards Matsqui, and reaching within one mile of the Matsqui Prairie, is 
situated one of the finest belts of alder land in the district. It commences near the river and 
extends southward about seven miles, and is probably three miles wide. The timber is very 
uniform in size, and about six inches through. This tract of land is comparatively level and free 
from undergrowth, and is also far above high water mark. The soil, black loam with clay subsoil. 

Between this alder belt and Matsqui Prairie, the country is slightly rolling; the prairie itself 
being bounded on the west and south by maple and alder ridges, with here and there small openings 
covered with a heavygrowth of fern. The timber is nearly all dead, and the obstacles in the way of 
clearing it ofl" and bringing the land to a state of cultivation, are light indeed compared with those 



94 APPENDIX. 

wliich settlers have to contend with in other countries. The fire, in fact, does the most of the work ; 
the stumps and roots being in a state of decay, can be easily got rid of; the fern is the worst enemy 
to contend with, but this in time disappears. Some of these ridges are now under cultivation, and 
the result is really surprising. I was shown a field of wheat which was growing on one of them, 
and I have no hesitation in saying that, for yield and quality of grain, it will equal anything ever 
raised in the Province. 

This wheat was raised on ground which had never been ploughed; the land had merely been 
bnnit over, the stumps taken out, the seed sowed and harrowed in ; and at the time I saw it (25th 
of August) was ready for reaping. 

]\Iatsqui Prairie is about four miles square, and is subject to overflow during extreme high water ; 
but for the greater part of the "year affords an excellent range for stock, Nestling between the 
range of hills on the west, and Sumass Mountain on the east, it presents a very charming pictiire 
indeed. 

^wmass.— Between Matsqui Prairie and Sumass, with the exception of a strip of timbered land 
along the foot of the mountain, the Sumass Mountain fills the space. 

Reaching Sumass we proceeded up the river, from which it takes its name, thence to the 
Boundary Line, along which we travelled and finished our exploration of the country south (•' 
Matsqui. Here and there small patches of open, fern land occur; but aside from these the country 
is heavily timbered, and where the fire has not crossed very fine groves of cedar and fir are found. 
Here again is met this immense growth of weeds, berry bushes, &c., which covers the whole country 
Avestward to Langley. The soil being of a rich loamy nature is formed, no doubt, by the constant 
decaying of this mass of vegetable matter, which year after year springs up, and year after year rot- 
away. Between Sumass and the Boundarj- Line the land is low and swampy. 

Sumass Prairie contains an area of nearly 25,000 acres, but much of it is subject to overflow. 
Considerable high land is contained within its boundaries, part of which is under cultivation, and th-. 
results so far, have been not only encouraging, but in some instances wonderful. 

Eoot crops grow remarkably well here, thirty tons of turnips have been raised from one acre. 
Potatoes, caiTOts, onions, &c., do equally as well. 

Now, to illustrate the small amount of trouble and expense attending the cultivation of this land, 
I will merely instance one field of wheat of eighty acres which was shown me by a farmer, giving 
nearly his own words. The cost of producing this wheat, that is breaking up the soil from its original 
state, sowing and including seed, did not amount to three hundred dollars. ISfow^placing the average 
yield of this field at thirty bushels per acre (its appearance would warrant expectations above tLi? 
average), the reader can form some idea as to the amount of profit on the labour and capital 
invested. 

Yet it has been fixirly proved, by practical tests, that the soil of the low land, that is the land 
subject to overflow, is the most productive. And it is a matter of no small regret, that some steps 
have not been taken, and some plan set on foot, by which the lands of this extensive valley might 
be reclaimed. Guarded on the east and west by the Chilliwhack and Sumass Mountains, it presents 
a frontage to the river two and a half miles long, across which, and between the points of these two 
mountains, it is contended a dyke, the average height of which would not exceed six feet, would 
effectually reclaim the whole valley. It is also claimed bj' practical minds that the actual cost of 
dyking would not exceed an average of one dollar per acre. Now ten times this amount per acre 
would scarcely leave the most favourable timbered land in the district ready for the plough. But 
dyking is something from which individual effort shrinks, and which indiwdual labour cannot be 
expected to accomplish in such an instance as this. 

Cldlliwhack. — Leaving Sumass, we proceeded direct to Chilliwhack, thence across the country in a 
southerly direction, along the valley of the Choowallah River from which we strike the Boundary 
Line. This countrj', probably six miles in extent, is all timbered, with the exception of a few 
patches of open burnt land, the surface broken or hilly ; the soil generally good, being light loam 
with clay subsoil ; but on the hills sandy, mixed with gravel. The timber, which in places is 
valuable, consists of fir, cedar, and cottonwood, with thick undergrowth of vine-maple, hazel, and 
dogwood. In this stretch of land, and about three miles from the Sumass Settlement, is also 
situated a cranberry marsh of about five hundred acres. 

Along the valley of the Choowallah Eiver several flats were under cultivation by the Indians, and 
very good crops of wheat, timothy hay, potatoes, &c., were produced. In fact I found all along, 
from Sumass to Cheam, the Indians were fast following in the footsteps of the whites in the matter 
of farming; nearly every little settlement having its patches of cereals and root crops. Eetuming 
from this point we proceeded up the valley of the Chilliwhack Pdver to the base of the mountains; 
distant from Fraser River about eight miles. The features of the country here are more favourable 
than along the valley of the Choowallah, the surface being not so much broken, and the soil richer 
and deeper. The timber consists of cottonwood, vine-maple, and alder, with a few scattering fir and 
cedar, the latter very large but of a poor quality; the undergrowth, hazel, beny-bushes, and nettles. 
Coal has been discovered here at the foot of the mountains. 

Chilliwhack is perhaps the most substantial and best regulated farming district on the mainland, 
not in the Province; but it might not be considered in the nature of this report to proclaim „facts 



APPENDIX. 95 

which are already patent to even the casual observer, were it not for the purpose of adducing proof 
as to what can be attained in the matter of farming on the Lower Fraser by careful industry. 
Here are to be seen those signs which are the certain indications of prosperity ; extensive and 
carefully cultivated fields, large and well filled bams, and neat and comfortable looking farm-houses- 
surrounded with their gardens of fruit and vegetables. These signs not only point to the great 
fertility of the soil, but have a tendency to inspire the new settler with hope and energy, and to this 
fact may be attributed the large increase of settlers in this neighbourhood during the last three 
months. We found the harvest here to be a week earlier than at Sumass. 

Leaving Chilliwhack we proceeded along the eastern boundary of the settlement, in a southerly 
direction towards the mountains. Nature of country : burnt timber, with very thick undergrowtli 
of hiizel. berry, and rose-bushes, and considerable fallen timber. Soil, dark loam with clay subsoil. 
At the base of the mountains, and probably three miles from the Chilliwhack Settlement, we crossed 
a large prairie about six miles long and from two to four wide, covered with blue joint grass, and in 
places pea-vine. Altbongh at present perfectly dry, it might, in consequence of its natural drainage 
being obstructed by beaver dams, be at certain seasons wet, possibly partly submerged ; but being 
much higher than high- water mark on the Fraser, there would be little diflBculty in removing this 
objection. This prairie is about eight miles from the Chilliwh?.ck landing; and between it and 
Cheam, and approaching near the river, two smaller prairies are foxmd, each of about one mile in 
extent. 

Leaving the large prairie, and travelling east towards Cheam, we crossed a grove of very fine green 
timber (fir) situated about five miles from Chilliwhack Settlement, and bordering on the Cheam 
Slough ; and two miles further on we came upon another fine belt of alder land, something similar 
in extent to that west of Matsqui. The nature of the soil, black loam with clay bottom. The soil 
here is very deep. The surface of the country level and comparatively free from undergrowth. 

Xearly all this country embraced within the following boundaries, viz. : Chilliwhack on the west 
and Cheam on the east, a distance of twelve miles, and Fraser River on the north (including islands) 
to the mountains on the south, a distance of fifteen miles, may be safely set down as containing 
more rich agricultural land unoccupied than any other section of the same extent within the limits 
explored. Although nearly all timbtied, it is of a nature requiring no great amount of laboiir in 
clearing, if I may except the fir timber which is always more or less hard to get rid of. But the 
settler must remember he has only the timber to contend with. Here he is free from floods ; and 
no Sjtones exist to cover his land with unsightly heaps after the labour of clearing away the timber i? 
finished. Towards the mountains the timber becomes more scattering, and fern openings and thick 
undergrowth are met with. 

Lea\-ing the vaUey we commenced the assent of " Discovery " Moimtain, which is situated at the 
eastern extremity of the valley. Perhaps the most extended view to be had on the Lower Fraser is 
from this mountain. From here the river can be traced through all its windings, eighty miles to 
the gulf; and looks still and motionless in the distance. Xew Westminster can be seen with the 
naked eye, and every settlement along the river can be readily distinguished. Sumass and Chilli- 
whack, the former seventeen, the latter twelve miles away, appear almost at our feet. Here also 
can be seen, in the country between Chilliwhack and Cheam, new openings made by recent settlers. 

Turning to the south, and within one hour's walk from this peak, we came out upon an open 
country, miles in extent, of benches and rolling hills, covered with a species of fine bunch grass, and 
dotted here and there with groves of stunted pines. 

The existence of this country has been known to the Cheam Indians for years ; and according to 
them no white man has ever been there. I have also the information from the Indians who 
accompanied me, that winter commences there in October, and ends in April. This country would 
Ije valuable as a summer range for stock, especially sheep. The best approach to it from the Fraser, 
would be up the valley of a creek which empties into the Fraser eight miles above Cheam ; but I am 
of the opinion that this open stretch of country extends through to the valley of the Similkameen. 

Returning to the river we explored round the Cheam Islands. On two of these islands, settlement 
has already commenced; but miles of unoccupied land still remain. These islands are lightly 
timbered with fir, cedar, and white birch; with undergrowth of hazel, rose-bush, &c. The soil is the 
usual alluvial deposit, covered with vegetable mould, and has proved, so far, to be very productive; 
in fact we found here everything in the shape of root crops, vegetables, &c., which are common to 
the climate of British Columbia, growing in great luxuriance. 

Bttu.een Cheam o.n'l Hope. — Between Cheam and Hope no unoccupied land of any extent was 
found. Crossing the river at Hope, we commenced our explorations westward along the northern 
bank. Between Hope and Agassiz Landing, a distance of twenty-five miles, there is very little 
worthy of note in the shape of agricultural land. Bare and rugged mountains, with here and there 
small stretches of land mostly timbered with cottonwood, and subject to overflow, make up this 
portion of the country. At Agassiz Landing occurs the first break in the mountains. This' open 
stretch of country is partly occupied, and one of the best cultivated farms met with in the district is 
to be seen here. The country as far back as the mountains is lightly timbered, with here and there 
open patches of grass and fern land, and clumps of vine-maple and hazel bushes ; and very little 
diflBculty would be experienced in clearing any portion of it. Soil, dark loam with clay subsoil. 



96 APPENDIX. 

At the nnrthern extremity of this open country is found a vailey or pass in the mountains, about 
six miles long and three wide, leading to the foot of Harrison Lake. Some very good land is met 
with here. The valley is thinly timbered with fir and cedar (burnt). Near Harrison Lake the land 
is low and wet. Two Cranberry Marshes, the largest about 200 acres, are also found here. 

From this point we proceeded down the Fraser to Harrisonmouth, thence up the Harrison River 
and Lake. Along this route the mountains hem in both rivers closely ; and with the exception of a 
tract of wet grass land (-100 acres), no imoccupied land was met with, although we ascended the 
mountains at different points to obtain a view of the surrounding country. At the foot of the lake, 
lo the right, and about half a mile from its junction with the river, is situated a hot spring, the steam 
arising from which can be seen from ?ome distance as we approach it. 

; Leaving Harrison River w^e proceeded down the Fraser about three miles, and entered what is 
known as Harris' Slough. Prairie land is met with both on the islands and mainland ; this however 
is nearly ail occupied. The slough is about ten miles long, and enters the Fraser at a point opposite 
Sumass Moiintain. The best piece of unoccupied land bordering on the slough, was found near its 
head on the mainland ; its extent about six hundred acres, lightly timbered. 

Leaving the slough we travelled westward to a lake ; thence across the lake to a valley. The 
■extent of this valley is about 1,500 acres, is partly occupied as a range for stock, and is subject to 
overflow. No unoccupied high land, fit for agricultural purposes, was found bordering on this 
valley, the mountains almost closing it in on three sides. In the centre of the lake, at the foot of the 
valley, is an island containing about five hundred acres of the best land met with on the trip down. 
The soil is the same met with on the Cheam Islands. 

Reaching St. Mary's Mission we proceeded back to the foot of the mountains, a distance of about 
five miles. The features of the country here are somewhat different from any met with on the south 
side of the river. The land is rolling, and stretches of open fern land occur very often. I mean by 
fern land, land over which the fire has passed, destroying the timber and undergrowth, and upon 
which fern has sprung up. Here, also, is found the first noticeable difference in the soil from that 
met with on the south side, which is nearly all formed by alluvial deposits and decayed vegetable 
matter. The soil here is a sort of red clay, mixed with sand and gravel, and is formed, no doubt, by 
the decomposition of rocks, and, to judge from its lightness, would not long retain its strength. 
Between this fern land and the river, and about one mile from the latter, is situated a belt of alder 
bottom three miles in extent, the surface of which is broken, and in places wet and swampy. Along 
the base of the mountain, down as far as Stave River, the country is heavily timbered with fir and 
cedar, and the soil gravelly. 

Following Stave River up as far as the lake, very little agricultural land. Some very fine timber 
(cedar and white-pine). 

Between Stave River and the Keatsy and Pitt Meadow-s, the country resembles that met with 
"between Stave River and the " ]\Iission ; " it is nearly all timbered, stretches of fern land. Soil 
gravelly. 

Crossing the Keatsy and Pitt Meadows, up Pitt River to head of lake, thence back, round foot of 
the mountains, to Lillooet River. No unoccupied high land fit for agricultural purposes except a 
small stretch of timbered land situated near the mouth of Lillooet River. 

Pitt Fiver Ifeadou-s. — Pitt River contains an area of nearly 20,000 acres, which is subject to 
overflow from all sides. The whole plain is nearly surrounded by water so that dyking is, in my 
opinion, out of the question. A great many stretches of cranberry marsh are met with thrcugli this 
country to Keatsy. 

Between Pitt River and Burrard Inlet no exploration was made. 

It will be seen from this Report, that the greater amount of agricultural land lies on the south 
side of the river, and that the places most available for immediate settlement are in the vicinity of 
the Langley settlement, between Langley and Matsqui, in the neighbourhood of the latter place, and 
between Chilliwhack and Cheam. 



Abridged Eeport of Exploration, by Me. E. Mohun in 1873, East 
Coast of Vancouver Island between Foet Eupert and Menzies 
Bay. 

Scvcquash.—Betvfeen Fort Rupert and Clickseeway, extensive ranges of open grass swamps ; but 
■country is not well adapted for settlement ; needs draining. 

Malcolm Island.— Malcolm Island contains about 13,000 acres, but no prairie land is on it; the 
timber is open on the northern shore, less so on south -side. Soil generally of fair quality ; but -water 
scarce. 

Nimkish River. — The Nimkish River is a large stream, canoe navigation not bad, no open land on 
this stream. Soil inferior. 

NeedgigMs or Karmutzeen River.— Into this lake, at its south-eastern extremity, the Needgilgas or 



APPENDIX. 97 

Karmutzeen (falling water) River (and marked upon the chart as the Kla-anch, but not known among 
the Indians by any such name) falls. Navigation not good — the valley widens seven miles up, and the 
banks are usually low, level, alluvial flats. The good land on this stream is estimated at about 6000 
acres, most of which would not be expensive clearing. Unfortunately, available lanil is cut up into 
detached blocks by the mountain spurs and gravel ridges which run down to the stream. 

Beaver Cove. — Up the Cokish River, which debouches into Beaver Cove near the base of Mount Holds- 
worth, a beautiful little valley, well watered, and containing about 1500 acres. Here there is a chain 
of grass prairies, varying from two or three to fifteen acres ; and divided from each other by clumps 
of alder and patches of b.'rry bushes. The whole of this valley might be easily cleared, while there 
is abundance of timber along its sides for all farming purposes. The soil is of first class quality. 

Adams River, or Hilatti. — Adams Eiver is a large rapid stream. At the mouth, an extensive fiat 
of 8000 acres, of which, probably, 4000 are suitable for settlement ; the soil is very good ; the 
timber, open and easily cleared. Ascending the river, detached flats, of from one to two hundred 
acres, divided from each other by mountain spurs, are passed ; most of these are of good alluvial soil. 
There is a trail though but little travelled, which, following a fork of this stream, crosses a low 
divide into the valley of Salmon Eiver. 

Salmon Eiver or Eusam.—L&st, but not least on the list, Salmon River claims attention. This is 
a large stream, the sources of which are believed to lie in the neighbourhood of Mount "Washington 
and Alexandra Peak, while two considerable tributaries take their rise from Victoria Peak and Crown 
Mountain respectively, and add considerably to its volume in the low portion of the river. The 
main stream itself is far from rapid, at all events at low water, and is easily navigable for canoes for 
some twenty miles from its mouth ; the current though strong, is not sufBciently so to render its 
ascent a matter of difficulty even to inexperienced canoemen, the rifiBes being unimportant and 
nowhere dangerous. It is believed that at moderate stages of the water, light draught steamers 
would be able to ascend ten or twelve miles. The valley may be described as about twenty miles 
long, varying in width from one and a half to five miles. It is estimated to contain 40,000 acres 
of land, of which at least 25,000 are eminently adapted for settlement. In these figures it has been 
my endeavour rather to under thau over-estimate. The soil throughout from one mountain range 
to the other is of very superior quality. On the banks of the river there is usually a narrow belt of 
timber, cedar, hemlock, and a little red fir and spruce, beyond this one finds dry alder bottoms with 
the trees ten or fifteen feet apart, while grass sometimes and sometimes berry bushes represent the 
underbrush ; small fern prairies, of from five to ten acres, and clumps of hemlock and spruce are 
scattered throughout the whole valley, and with the exception that towards the mouth the soil is 
inclined to be rather more swampy than above, this is its character for twenty miles. In many 
places there is excellent feed to be found on the base of the mountains. Siill higher up the river 
there is a considerable quantity of white pine, of fair size. The next consideration which presents 
tself is as to the modes of reaching this valloy, of which there are two. One may be dismissed in a 
very few words, and is the only one at present available, viz., by canoe from Salmon Bay. 

The other is by trail from Menzies Bay which presents the following advantages :— 

Firstly, — Menzies Bay is a good harbour, and lies to the southward of the Seymour Narrows. 

Secondly, — That it is directly on the line of the projected railway. 

Thirdly, — That it is no great distance from the head of the proposed settlement; and, 

Lastly, — That the country is favourable for trail making. 

The only obstacle appears to be a large lake, which extends from the Menzies Mountain many 
miles to the southward. Even this, however, offers a convenient place for crossing, since twu 
opposing points stretch far into the lake, and only leave a gap of some three hundred feel to bridge. 



} 



( 99 ) 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Advice to young farmers .. .. 29 

, words of 29 

Aliens 30 

Banks, savings 18 

, other 28 

Beasts, eatable 20 

Beet, sugar 90 

Birds .. .. 21 

Board and lodging 22 

Bonaparte 69 

Books on province 4 

BuUding material 22 

Caclie Creek 69 

Canadian Pacific Eailway . . 5, 8. 73 
Capitalists, large and small . . . . 27 

Cariboo 76 

Cascade range 7, 47 

Cassiar 77 

Cliilcotin 71 

Churches 31 

Classes, suitable 23 

Climate 13-14 

CUnton 69 

Coal 6,78 

Coal mining 78 

Columbia River . . . . 14, 55, 63 
Copper mining 81 

Debt, public 15 

Douglas fir 82 

East Cascade Region : — Surface, 
products, irrigation, grazing, 
healthiness of cattle, arable 
farming, description of various 

districts 55-71 

Emigrants, suitable 23 

Exports 33 

Family (300Z. a-year) 20 

Farm prices 17 

products 6 

produce in other colonies .. 42 

in foreign countries 43 

Farming 7-10 

Vancouver Island .. .. 37-46 
New Westminster District 48-52 
East Cascade Region .. 55-71 

Sheep farming 84-86 

Also see Appendix. 
Fish, for household use • . . . 21 

Fisheries 87-90 

Flax growing 90 



PAGE 

Foreigner's impressions . . . . 6 

Eraser's Lake 71 

Eraser River, 7, 11, 13, 21, 48, 50, 56, 
68, 88, and Appendix. 

Free grants 7 

Freestone 80 

Freshets 50 

Fruits, wild 20 

Fuel 22 

Game for household use .. ., 21 

Goats 86 

Gold mining 75-78 

Government .. 32 

Harbours 36 

Hat River 70 

Homestead Act 8 

Hope .. .. 68 

Hospitals 35 

Household articles : — 

Prices 19 

Servants 23 

Housing 21 

How to go 26 

How to send money 28 

Indians . . . . 7 



Justice, administration of 



Kamloops 
Kootenay . 



., 32 

49,66 
65, 76 



Lands 



•, popular names for 



Laws 

Leases : — Land, mining and timber 8 

Legislation 32 

! Lillouet- Clinton District .. .. 69 

I And Appendix. 

I Lytton 68 

Manufactories 33 

Markets 71-73, 86 

Minerals 6 

Mining 74-81 

Money table 18 

in the province 27 

, how to send 28 

Mouth of the ' Eraser ' 50 

Nanaimo Coal Company . . . . 8, 79 

Nasse-Skena District 52 

Navigation (coast) .. .. 10 11 



100 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Navigation (inland) 13 

Newspapers 31 

New Westminster District . . 48, 50 
Nicola 49,67 

OflScers' land grants 8 

Omineca 76 

Okanagan 48,66 

Osoyoos .. .. 64 

Pnssage money 27 

Population ' 7 

Post rates 31 

Prices :— 

Meat in Great Britain . . . . 45 

Cattle in United States . . . . 43 
And Appendix. 

Public debt 15 

Schools 30 

Works 35 

Puget Sound Company 8 

Queen Charlotte Islands .. .. 54 

Quesnel 69 

Roods 11-12 

Road tax 12 

Salmon River 97 

Savings-Banks 18 

Saw-milling 82 

Schools, public 30 

Servants, household 23 

Sheep- farming 84 

Shuswap 66 

Silver-mining 81 

Similkameen Valley 64 

Snow 5 

Soils 38 

Stewart's Lake 71 

Sugar (Beet) 90 

Sumass and Chilliwhack 48-5t), 63 
And Appendix. 



PAGE 

Taxation 5, 15 

Telegraph lines 35 

Thompson River ^aI'I'^ 

( 4o, 67 

Tidal overflow 50 

Timber 81-84 

' Times" opinion 4 

Tobacco 91 

Tonnage 35 

Trade 34 

Transport and travel 10 

Wages 16 

Weights and measures 19 

West Cascade Region : — Scenery, 
soils, New Westminster District, 
Nasse-Skena District, Queen 
Charlotte Islands .. .. 47-54 

Williams Lake 69 

Wood, prices of 21 

Wool growing 87 

Words of advice 29 

Working man's position .. .. 17 

Vancouver Island, description of.. 37 

Charing land 40 

Cropping 41 

Farming land 39 

Farm produce 44 

Interior 39 

Labour on farms, in 45 

Population 37^ 

Piices of farm stock 44 

Production 42 

Soils 38 

Water 39 

W^inter food for stock in . . . . 45 

Victoria ^ 

Visitors 6, 19 

Yale 68 



APPENDIX. 

PAGE 

Notes for a Year respecting the Settlements at Sumass and Chilliwack, 

British Columbia 92 

Abridged Newspaper Reports for one year respecting the LiOooet- 

Clinton Country 93 

Abridged Report of Exploration, New Westminster District, by Mr. John 

Fannin in 1873 .. 93 

Abridged Report of Exploration by Mr. E. Mohun in 1873, east coast of 

Vancouver Island 96 



View near Victoria . . . . 
Government Street, Victoria 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Harbour and Site of Victoria . . . . Frontispiece. 

Title-page | Columbia Street, New AVestminster . . page 47 



PAGE 37 East Cascade Region „ 55 



LONDON : FEINTED BT AMLLIAM CLOWES AKD SONS, STAMFOBD 5TBEEX, 
AffD CHARING CRO.'iS. 



SPROAT & CO., 

VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

(Establislied IS^r.) 



Agents for 

THE ROYAL mSURANCE COMPANY. 
THE ROYAL MAIL STEAM PACKET COMPANY. 
The ORIGINAL LONDON LINE of PACKET SHIPS. 

Sole Agents for Byass's celebrated bottling of 

BASS'S ALE AND GUINNESS'S STOUT, 

Whicli are always kept in stock, with a large assortment of 

Demerara Rum; Irish and Scotch ^Whiskies; 

Red and Green Case Geneva; 

Old Tom ; Claret ; Orange and Angostura Bitters ; 

RONALDSON'S SHERRIES and PORT; 

Price's Candles; Cook's Soap; Guns; Blankets, &c., 
for Indian Trade. 

And other Articles, all saleable, in Lots to suit, 

AGENTS FOR OREGON & SANDWICH ISLANDS PRODUCE; 

AL'^O FOR 

Spars, Ltinibey, and Tinned Salmon, 



BANK OF BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 

ESTABLISHED IN 1836. 
INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER IN 1840. 



PAID UP CAPITAL, ONE MILLION STERLING. 



J. J. CATER, Esq. 
HENRY R. FARRER, Esq. 
ALEXANDER GILLESPIE. Esq. 



COURT OF DIRECTORS. 

RICHARD H. GLYN. Esq. 
SAMUEL HOARE, Esq. 
W. BURNLEY HUME, Esq. 
J. J. KINGSB'ORD, Esq. 



FREDERIC LUBBOCK, Esq. 

A. H. PHILLPOTTS, Esq. 

J. MURRAY ROBERTSON. Esq. 



Montreal . 
Quebec . 
Ottawa . . . 
Arnprior 
Kenfrew 
Toronto 
Kingston , 



3£sta6lisf}ments in America. 

GENERAL MAN AGE R — CHARLES McNAB. Esq. 

NEW YORK— Agency, 52, Wall Street. 

SAN FRANCISCO— Agency, 217 & 219, Sansome Street. 

DOMINION OF CANADA 



' > Quebec. 



Ontario. 



:;■! 



Napanee , 

Hamilton 

Brantford 

Paris 

Dunnville 

London . . 

Halifax, Nova Scotia. 



Ontario. 



Stellarton, Nova Scotia. 
St. John . . 



St. Stephen . 
Fredericton . 
Moncton .. . 
Victoria . .. . 
Stanley 



iNew 
Brunswick. 

I British 
/ Columbia. 



The bank GRANTS CREDITS on its Branches and New York and San Francisco 
Agflnts, payable on pi-esentation, free of charge. 

Also purchases or forwards for Collection BILLS on AMERICA and COUPONS for 
Dividends on AMERICAN STOCKS, and undertakes the Purchase and Sale of STOCK, and 
other Money business in the BRITISH PROVINCES and the UNITED STATES. 

Deposits are received in the London Office for fixed periods at rates which can be 
obtained on application. 



AG E 

ENGLAND. 

BANK OF LIVERPOOL. 

BRAHFOKD COMMKHCIAL BANKING COM- 
PANY, YORKSHIRE. 

HALIFAX & HUDDERSFIELD UNION BANK- 
ING COMPANY. 

MANCHESTER AND SALFORD BANK. 

UNION BANK OF MANCHESTER. LIvTITED. 

BIRMINGHAM BANKING CO., LIMITED. 

BIRMINGHAM. DUDLEY & DISTRICT BANK- 
ING COMPANY. 

LLOYD'S HANKING COMPANY, LIMITED, 
BIRMINGHAM. 

WOLVERHAMPTON AND STAFFORDSHIRE 
BANKING COMPANY. 

NORWICH AND NORFOLK BANK (Messrs. 

GOKNEY & Co.). 

DEVON & CORNWALL BANKING COMPANY". 
WEST CORNWALL BANK (Messrs. J. Michael 

WlIXIAMS & Co). 
WEST OF ENGLAND AND SOUTH WALES 

DISTRICT BANK. 



LONDON AND COUNTY BANK. 
I/)NDON ANIJ PROVINCIAL BANK, LIMITED. 
LONDON AND WESTMINSTER BANK. 
NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK OF ENGLAND. 
ALEXANDERS, MAW & CO., IPSWICH. 
BIRKBECK & CO. (CRAVEN BANK). 
DINGLEY & CO., LAUNCESTON. 
GARFIT & CO. 

GLOUCESTERSHIRE BANKING COMPANY. 
HUDDERSFIELD BANKING COMPANY. 
LAMBTON & CO., NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. 
LANCASTER BANKING COMPANY. 
LINCOLN & LINDSEY BANKING CO., LOUTH, 
SMITH, ELLISON & CO. 
STUCKEYS BANKING COMPANY. 
UNION BANKING COMPANY, COVENTRY. 
YORK CITY AND COUNTY BANK. 



NTS. 

SCOTLAND. 
BANK OF SCOTLAND. 
CLYDESDALE BANKING COMPANY. 
COMMERCIAL BANK OF SCOTLAND. 
NATIONAL BANK OF SCOTLAND. 
NORTH OF SCOTLAND BANKING COMPANY. 
ROYAL BANK OF SCOTLAND. 
UNION BANK OF SCOTLAND. 

IRELAND. 
BANK OF IRELAND. 
MUNSTER BANK, LIMITED. 
NATIONAL BANK. 
PROVINCIAL BANK OF IRELAND. 
ROYAL BANK OF IRELAND. 



AUSTRALIA. 
UNION BANK OF AUSTRALIA. 

NE"W ZEALAND. 
UNION BANK OF AUSTRALIA. 
BANK OF NEW ZEALAND. 



i 



INDIA, CHINA, AND JAPAN. 

CHARTERED MERCANTILE BANK Oi INDIA 

LONDON AND CHINA. 
AGRA BANK, LIMITED. 

WEST INDIES. 
COLONIAL BANK. 

PARIS. 
Messrs. MARCUARD, ANDRfi & CO. 

LYONS. 

CREDIT LYONNAIS. 



3, Clemeni's Lane, Lombard Street, 
London-t E.C. 
2 



R. W. BRADFORD, Secretary. 



TURNER, BEETOR, & TUHSTALL, 

Conrmtssion ||Ifrc|jatrts, 

AND 

IMPORTERS OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS OF 

DRY GOODS, 

Victoria, 

BRITISH COLUMBIA. 



SOLE AGENTS FOR 
BOUTELLEAU & Co.'s CHAMPAGNE VINEYARD PRO- 
PRIETORS' COMPANY'S COGNAC BRANDY. 
Clossmann & Cos. Celebrated Clarets, 
G. Preller & Cos. Celebrated Clarets. 
Basss Ale^ bottled by M. B. Foster & Sons, 
Guinness s Stout, do. do. 

H. D. Raw lings' Celebrated Aerated Waters and Ginger 
Ale. 
FAWCETT'S "ROYAL CROWN" IRISH WHISKEY. 

Duff Gordon s Celebrated Sherries. 
WHITING & COWAN, OSHAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA, 
GARDEN AND AGRICULTURAL TOOLS. 
Sanford, Vail, & Bickley, of Hamilton., Canadian Tweeds. 
D. Mclnnes & Co.., Hamilton., Canadian Tweeds. 
F. BRABY & Co., Limited, GALVANIZED IRON, FITZROY 
WORKS, LONDON. 
Price & Cos. Perfumery and Fancy Soaps. 



LONDON FIRM: 

J. P. TUN STALL & Co 

8, BOW CHURCHYARD, LONDON, E.G. 



3 



BANK OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

Incorporated by Royal Charter, 1 862. 
5, EAST INDIA AVENUE, LEADENHALL STREET, LONDON, E.C. 



Capital £500,000 in 25,000 Shares of £20 each. 

With power to increase. 
(ITourt of ©(rectors. 

T. W. L. MACKEAN, Esq., Chairman. ROBERT GILLESPIE, Esq., Deputy Chairman 

JAMES ANDERSON, Esq. I HENRY DALBIAC HARRISON, Esq. 

L EDEN COLVILE, Esq. I Sir JOHN ROSE, Bart., K.C.M.G. 

General Manager— YLY^-^^Y E. RANSOM, Esq. 

Bajtkers—yi^ssviS. SMITH, PAYNE & SMITHS. 

BRANCHES 

SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA. * PORTLAND, OREGON. 

VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA, 



AGENTS. 



In Engsland. 
Bank of Liverpool. 
North and South Wales Bank. 

In Sccvtland. 
British Linen Company Bank. 

In Ireland. 
Bank of Ireland. 

In New York. 
Messrs. R. Bell & C. F. Smithers, 59, Wall St. 

In Canada. 
Bank of Montreal. 



In Mexico and Peru. 
London Bank of Mexico — Mexico- 
Ditto Lima. 
In Australia. 
Bank of Australasia. 

Commercial Banking Company of Sydney. 
English, Scottish, and Australian Chartered Bk. 

In New Zealand. 
Bank of New Zealand. 

In China and Japan. 
Oriental Bank Corporation, Hongkong, Shang- 
hai, and Yokohama. 



The Bank grants Letters of Credit on its Branches at San Francisco, in California ; Porilandy in 
Oregon ; and Victoria, in British Columbia ; and similar Credits are granted by the British Linen Cona- 
|)any Bank, the North and South Wales Bank in Liverpool, and the Bank of Liverpool. 

The Bank also purchases, or forwards for collection. Drafts on the above Branches. 



FINDLAY, DURHAM, & BRODIE, 

Importers & General Commission Merchants^ 

WHAEF STREET, VICTOEIA, B.C. 

London Office: — 31, GREAT ST. HELEN'S, E.C 



DENNY & SPENCER, 

IMPORTERS OF STAPLE DRY GOODS, MILLINERY, &C 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. 

VICTORIA HVUSE, 

GOVERNMENT STREET, VICTORIA, B.C 
4 



4. 



